Hydraulic Auger Mount

[Zebrafive]

Zebrafive,
Negative. The exit hole at the cross tube is just big enough for the original 4 hoses.
hugs, Brandi

Too bad that would have made a clean install. I'd consider enlarging the hole at the torque tube.

 

[bindian]

Too bad that would have made a clean install. I'd consider enlarging the hole at the torque tube.

..............and people wonder why loader arms crack. Maybe on your tractor. These lines have an outside diameter of 3/4 inch, without the fittings. At the angle they exit, you would have to cut out close to 2 inches.:thumbdown: My loader is rated at 3900 pounds and I want to keep that rating. I'm not even crazy about the idea of welding hose clamp brackets on.:mur: I never have liked welding on metal that comes under regular, designed stress.
Brandi

 

[boggen]

Boggen,
Thanks for the replies. Back towards the first of this thread I stated I can see the auger and bit easily from the seat and posted at least one photo of it from the seat. Can't see ty wrapping a rod to a round motor unit. Also, it is forward and aft that is hard to figure if it is square. The problem comes from being further away and a lower angle to the bit. On the backhoe I sit high and can move the boom and dipper stick forward or backward to adjust the angle to stay square. On the loader bucket, I have to move the tractor forward or backward as the auger starts and goes down and back up to keep the hole at 90 degrees.
Good forks have a large headache rack on them, which would be harder to see than off the end of a 7 foot wide bucket.
hugs, Brandi

you have the skills to weld and drill and tap holes. weld on a little plate to side of the auger motor. drill and tap a hole in the plate and use threaded rod. again it is only a thought.

*rubs chin* i had to re-read your post a couple times. lower fel arms, to lower PHD, but is there a problem not being able to adjust the bucket curl to offset PHD as it goes down to keep PHD level? or is PHD to far back on bucket, to point of curling bucket does not offset things enough?

or should the PHD the mount on the bucket, be turned 90 degrees so when you curl the bucket up or down, it gives you enough change to to keep PHD level?

backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and bucket
backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and hyd auger
FEL = arms, bucket
FEL = arms, bucket, hyd auger.

re stating things... fel arms = dipper stick, front bucket = boom stick, and then a mount for hyd auger.

 

[bindian]

you have the skills to weld and drill and tap holes. weld on a little plate to side of the auger motor. drill and tap a hole in the plate and use threaded rod. again it is only a thought.

*rubs chin* i had to re-read your post a couple times. lower fel arms, to lower PHD, but is there a problem not being able to adjust the bucket curl to offset PHD as it goes down to keep PHD level? or is PHD to far back on bucket, to point of curling bucket does not offset things enough?

or should the PHD the mount on the bucket, be turned 90 degrees so when you curl the bucket up or down, it gives you enough change to to keep PHD level?

backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and bucket
backhoe = dipper stick, boom stick, and hyd auger
FEL = arms, bucket
FEL = arms, bucket, hyd auger.

re stating things... fel arms = dipper stick, front bucket = boom stick, and then a mount for hyd auger.

Boggen,
I am not going to weld on the auger gearbox or motor. Ain't going to happen. It is not a swivel travel thing. The auger has plenty of swivel. The problem arises when you auger down into the ground.....As you lower the loader arm..............the auger bit to ground geometry changes,......... which to keep at 90 degrees, you have to roll the tractor forward or backward. With the auger bit, extension, and height of the auger gearbox and mount, you are over 6 feet in length (height), a degree or two off really shows up 4 feet down in the ground.

On a backhoe, as you lower the boom, you compensate for the geometry changes with the dipperstick. A front end loader can not do this, thus having to move the tractor a couple of inches either way.
So the really simple way around all this is to either have another person spotting that you dig down into a hole at 90 degrees, or you use a bigger diameter auger bit to compensate for the hole being not truly 90 degrees.
As to which is a better mounting location, backhoe or loader, is not going decided by me. Each has it's advantages. Neither is the best. I designed the loader auger mount so I don't have to remove the backhoe bucket and thumb to poke one or two holes. Loader bucket mounting is just 4 bolts and a pivot pin. The backhoe location shines in a corner or between two close objects. Only way to beat these locations is a skid steer with vertical loader rise. But they are all way more fun than a PTO driven auger on a 3PH.
hugs, Brandi

 

[jenkinsph]

When I am setting posts I have the auger on the hoe and pallet forks on the front. This way I can drill the holes and carry a bundle of posts at the same time. On the next pass I use an electric wheelbarrow mixer, the garden tractor with cart carrying 6 buckets of water and a Honda 2000 genset, the 110 carries a pallet of sack concrete high enough that an old geezer doesn't have to lift it off the ground. When setting wooden posts I use a demolition hammer with a curved flat shoe on it to fit in the holes and tamp. Makes quick work of fencing and greatly reduces the amount of labor needed.

 

[Artisan]

snip

When setting wooden posts I use a demolition hammer with a curved flat shoe on it to fit in the holes and tamp.

Cunfusamabobulated...you tamp "dirt" yes? Got a pic of that weapon?

 

[jenkinsph]

Cunfusamabobulated...you tamp "dirt" yes? Got a pic of that weapon?

Not on file but I will take one for you. Yes for wooden posts I backfill the dirt. I usually will install corner posts and terminal posts using the hammer to tamp in. Setting regular line posts I use an old rake or hoe handle to pack these.

 

[Zebrafive]

..............and people wonder why loader arms crack. Maybe on your tractor. These lines have an outside diameter of 3/4 inch, without the fittings. At the angle they exit, you would have to cut out close to 2 inches.:thumbdown: My loader is rated at 3900 pounds and I want to keep that rating. I'm not even crazy about the idea of welding hose clamp brackets on.:mur: I never have liked welding on metal that comes under regular, designed stress.
Brandi

My loader has external lines, So I just changed to six line clamps from four when I added the third function steel lines.

I did not expect a 2" cutout would be required, which I would not do either.. I thought the factory hole would be big enough.

 

[bindian]

My loader has external lines, So I just changed to six line clamps from four when I added the third function steel lines.

I did not expect a 2" cutout would be required, which I would not do either.. I thought the factory hole would be big enough.

Zebrafive,
Oh believe me I wanted to shove those hoses inside. But the hole is so tight, I dread having one of those hoses needing replacement. With welded clamp brackets added, one could install hard lines.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I augered the hole for this mailbox with the auger motor mounted on my front bucket a few weeks ago. I augered the post hole in the second photo with the auger mounted on my backhoe, yesterday. I used a 9 inch bit on the mailbox and a 12 inch bit for the cedar post. The backhoe position is so much easier in operation and the 12 inch bit worked better and faster there. The 9 inch bit on the front end loader did not work good and was really slow. I have 3/8 inch lines to the backhoe and on the loader up to the curl circuit lines. So my rear remotes and backhoe get more flow and/or pressure that the loader curl circuit. Now that I tried both in the same soil, I will use the auger in the future on the backhoe.

Oh yeah, the third photo show how I secured the auger to do some loader work grading the driveway.
hugs, Brandi