Ballast Block For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

Decided it would be handy to have something a little more substantial and a little more compact than my Woods box blade for ballast ... so I decided to pour a concrete ballast block.

The dimensions are 22" (wide) x 24" (long) x 28" tall. With the steel used for the 3PH and rebar cage I figure it will weigh around 1100 lbs (15 bags of concrete - ten 60 lb bags of regular and five 80 lb bags of high-strength)

The 3PH assembly and rebar cage, almost completed:

 

[rswyan]

Wanted to add some capability for tool storage so I took a length of 5" x 5" vinyl fence post and cut two 37" long sections and capped them.

These were then drilled, plugged with wine bottle corks (to keep them off the very bottom of the block and provide drain holes), and inserted towards the rear of the block:

 

[Wolfy]

Awesome. I made a 1,000lb concrete block for the L3710 when it was a week old. A "best build".

 

[rswyan]

Here's the block the morning after I finished pouring it (about 3 or 4 days ago)

I used a needle scaler and several sections of steel bar stock as a vibrator, to consolidate the 'crete and pull out the air bubbles:

Not sure exactly how long I should leave the forms on ... I read of someone leaving them on a week ... probably a good idea in terms of keeping it covered to slow evaporation (I wetted the top and covered it in plastic after I took this photo)

Been keeping a fire going in the wood stove in the shed to prevent it from freezing ... although I'd imagine that the hydration process in something this sizeis generating a little heat on it's own.

 

[rswyan]

Awesome. I made a 1,000lb concrete block for the L3710 when it was a week old. A "best build".

Thanks ... I'd guess that it made doing loader work with the L3710 a whole lot better.

I'm hoping that with having this much ballast I'll see some improvement in loader performance.

Although after checking my hydraulic system pressure the other day and finding it about 200 psi low, I know I'll need to address that as well (I ordered the shims from the dealer for the PRV yesterday)

 

[Pixguy]

Nice build. :thumbsup:

 

[Wolfy]

I left my form on for about a week. I did make sure the top of the concrete stayed wet, not sure if that really matters or not. Yes, I saw a big difference in loader performance. Even though the L3710 came with RimGaurd in the tires, the extra weight just keeps the tractor firmly planted to the ground. There is also a safety factor there..before I build the weight, I got a bucket of loam at a jobsite and the rear of the tractor came off the ground at least 2ft. That right there convinced me that a weight was needed. Also, make sure you are running your tractor at enough RPM. On my old 1710 I have to run the engine at least 2,000 RPM to get any hydraulic power.

 

[rswyan]

Nice build. :thumbsup:

Pix,

Thanks.

On the flip side, nice pics in the GMTBN thread (you got "the eye") ... beautiful place ... :thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

I left my form on for about a week. I did make sure the top of the concrete stayed wet, not sure if that really matters or not.

I would think it sure couldn't hurt .

I'll need to look and see if I can figure out exactly when I poured it ... I'm sure it's been at least 5 days.

Yes, I saw a big difference in loader performance.

Good to know.

Even though the L3710 came with RimGaurd in the tires, the extra weight just keeps the tractor firmly planted to the ground. There is also a safety factor there..before I build the weight, I got a bucket of loam at a jobsite and the rear of the tractor came off the ground at least 2ft. That right there convinced me that a weight was needed.

Yup ... I've had a couple of close calls with tipping myself ... even with a 500+ lb box blade on the back.

Also, make sure you are running your tractor at enough RPM. On my old 1710 I have to run the engine at least 2,000 RPM to get any hydraulic power.

Good point.