3-point log lift & skidder on small tractor

[Sodo]

Structure is 2 x 2 x 1/8 steel tubing, 1/4" gussets. The receiver socket is 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16" (which is a little loose on a 2" stinger). This attachment weighs only 15 lbs.





Welded with 7018 which is kind of like cheating.



Then built the lifter part. The stinger end is 2 x 2 x 3/16. The two lifter prongs are made of 1 x 2 x 1/8". Looks kinda like its asking for abuse.





Havent figured out how to attach the (pulling chains) yet.



To move trailers around.

 

[farm boy00]

Structure is 2 x 2 x 1/8 steel tubing, 1/4" gussets. The receiver socket is 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16" (which is a little loose on a 2" stinger). This attachment weighs only 15 lbs.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420196"/>

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420197"/>

Welded with 7018 which is kind of like cheating.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420198"/>

Then built the lifter part. The stinger end is 2 x 2 x 3/16. The two lifter prongs are made of 1 x 2 x 1/8". Looks kinda like its asking for abuse.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420201"/>

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420200"/>

Havent figured out how to attach the (pulling chains) yet.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420199"/>

To move trailers around.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=420202"/>

Love the build. But wouldn't the Forks be too low to the ground to get good hight for the logs to get off the ground better

 

[vtsnowedin]

Havent figured out how to attach the (pulling chains) yet.

How about a pair of tongs that your hydraulic top link could pull tight to bite in and slack off to release?

 

[Sodo]

I have tongs that can go to about 16" but this log is about 20". I will make an adapter for the 16" skidding tongs though, as most of my logs are within their 16" range. Would be fun to grab onto a log without getting off the seat but I'd have to pretend that there's 20 logs all lined up & waiting for me to back up and grab onto. In reality I never have more than a few at a time.

But you're right about using the top link to lift with. Probably the way this will work out is the lifting fork is just used for lifting the log to get a chain under it, and will have to add a small "boom" above with a grab hook and a short chain with a slip hook, then tension/lift by tipping it fwd with the top link. Like the Northern Tool "Log Hog".

 

[vtsnowedin]

That should do it.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You have an interesting idea there.

you might also find this interesting

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...dding-tongs-into-post4012490.html#post4012490

gg

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I noticed that your log contact points are smooth. You might want to weld a couple of pointy things on each arm so the log isn't as likely to slide off.

 

[Buggs67]

You have an interesting idea there.

you might also find this interesting

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...dding-tongs-into-post4012490.html#post4012490

gg

I tht this mod to the tongs was good too. might do it myself.

I think your build is great. I also tht that some spikes on the lowers would dig into the wood and drag it. Only down side would be getting them to release at the landing.

 

[Sodo]

I noticed that your log contact points are smooth. You might want to weld a couple of pointy things on each arm so the log isn't as likely to slide off.

This project is still in development,,,,,,, I might do that at a later step.

I've been using the standard log arch but you have to pull pretty straight with those. If the arch is narrow, they tip when you turn especially if there is resistance from the rear of the log. A wide log arch is just a lot more machinery than I want to move around the woods.

What I'm trying to develop is a way to skid logs above the dirt. Sawmilling a log that has dirt in the bark can dull a $20 bandsaw blade in the first cut. There will be a narrow dolly at the rear end, but need a way that the dolly can't tip over on un-even ground, or going over sticks and around turns. So at the front, ultimately I will clamp onto the log letting it swivel left/right and up/down but not rotate (kind of like a U-joint). Will design something compact that I can also use on the ATV for smaller logs. If its a smaller log the ATV can get there faster than the tractor and return faster too.

Here's a pic of whats in my mind. Have to think of a way to lock the u-joint for the lifting function. And find a chain binder that works on a curve . The plan is to strap the dolly on upside-down then roll the log over, onto the wheels, then attach at the front and drive away.

I'm trying to make some compact stuff that I can get to the log-site in one trip. Often I want to just move a couple logs and saw them up NOW, not set up for production. And I like to build stuff so I create a special need. With regular needs I could certainly buy regular stuff for cheaper than the time to build it .

 

[bcp]

I've been using the standard log arch but you have to pull pretty straight with those. If the arch is narrow, they tip when you turn especially if there is resistance from the rear of the log.

Even the big guys sometimes have trouble in turns.



Bruce

 

[vtsnowedin]

This project is still in development,,,,,,, I. Sawmilling a log that has dirt in the bark can dull a $20 bandsaw blade in the first cut. ]

Any bandsaw mill worth keeping will have a debarker buzzing in front of the band knocking off the bark and any dirt before the blade gets to it.

 

[Sodo]

Judging by how seldom sawmills appear on craigslist I suspect those without debarkers - are worth keeping too. I've been thinking about that, it wouldn't take much, just a skilsaw with a double blade operating ahead of the bandsaw entry point might do it.

Bruce and notice that large skidder doesn't have a u-joint hitch, it's tipping by just encountering resistance pulling in an arc.

Wouldn't take much to roll an ATV with the u-joint hitch, probably ought to have rotation pinned so anti-rotation feature is optional. My ATV suspension is quite plush, it can't take much weight in the rear. May need a steerable dolly but that's just "more stuff" to build & transport - but it is towable.

 

[vtsnowedin]

That large skidder doesn't have a u-joint hitch, it's just encountering resistance pulling in an arc.

Wouldn't take much to roll an ATV with the u-joint hitch, probably ought to have rotation pinned so anti-rottion is optional. My ATV suspension is quite plush, it can't take much weight in the rear. May need a steerable dolly but that's just "more stuff" to build & transport - but it is towable.

Not following your line of thought here at all.

 

[PapaPerk]

Here's my set-up. I like choker chains because it applies straight line load on hitch... Not a bending moment.

 

[Sodo]

Not following your line of thought here at all.

You're right, ignore all that, I am mixing up a couple methods (wheels at the front of the log).

Papaperk I like those keyhole thingies. I still might just do it simple like you're doing.

 

[PapaPerk]

You're right, ignore all that, I am mixing up a couple methods (wheels at the front of the log). Papaperk I like those keyhole thingies. I still might just do it simple like you're doing.

Those are grab links made by CM. I think northern tool sells them. Also the slip hooks are made for choker chains. You can get them from Baileys. Really works slick!

 

[PapaPerk]

Judging by how seldom sawmills appear on craigslist I suspect those without debarkers - are worth keeping too. I've been thinking about that, it wouldn't take much, just a skilsaw with a double blade operating ahead of the bandsaw entry point might do it. Bruce and notice that large skidder doesn't have a u-joint hitch, it's tipping by just encountering resistance pulling in an arc. Wouldn't take much to roll an ATV with the u-joint hitch, probably ought to have rotation pinned so anti-rotation feature is optional. My ATV suspension is quite plush, it can't take much weight in the rear. May need a steerable dolly but that's just "more stuff" to build & transport - but it is towable.

The skidder is basically popping a wheelie with the steering wheel turned to the right.

 

[vtsnowedin]

The debarker on the last bandsaw mill I saw was about the size of a can of beans or an over sized Dremel tool. It was pressed into the log by spring tension and the spinning cutters cleared out a grove less then a quarter of an inch wide. Very clever and well worth the cost.

 

[s219]

Here's what I have been using for several years (photo from my old B2920):



Also has a 2" receiver on the bottom.

 

[Sodo]

S219 thats a beefy unit. I should have welded my receiver on the bottom like yours then it wouldn't need the gussets (on my little b2710). But I had some kind of a wild hair. But those fellas sure gusseted yours!

I wonder how much lift capacity the burliest CAT1 can produce.