Help selecting a tractor for steep brush clearing.

[ChuckinNH]

I don't think that ag tires are available at all for the JD2320. That tractor uses an odd sized wheel. Do a search, and you may find more on this.

 

[G-force]

Anyone have opinions on a JD 3203 for my property? There's one on my local craigslist with JD loader, box scraper and 5' rotary cutter for $18k with under 100 hours use.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Let me first start off by saying, I have never bought or owned a tractor. I am as green as it gets on the subject.

I have been reading around, and I have searched, but I figured I could start a new thread with some pictures of my specific needs.

We live on 5 acres. I would estimate at least 2-3 acres being sloping fields of brush that gets as tall as 4-5 ft in the spring and summer time. I will probably be clearing these fields 2-3 times a year as well as doing other small tasks around the property. Nothing major.

My concern is that the incline of some of our fields is so steep that a tractor will not be stable or safe traveling on some of the more extreme sloped areas.

Here are a few pictures of my land for reference. I took them today. Believe me when I tell you it is alot steeper than it looks. When it is wet, it is very hard to walk down without slipping. My ATV can even be a little scary going up it. I am an experienced ATV rider, and I would never ride sideways on some of the slopes.


I have been looking at the JD 2320 and 3X20 tractors with HST. Specifically the 2320 with 200x front loader and tow behind rotary cutter. I have found a local deal on this machine with only 35 hours and am really considering pulling the trigger on it. Do you think this machine could handle my tasks?

I appreciate any feedback I can get.

Those slopes look to be 15 to 20 degree. 20 is about the limit I would run sidehill on a loader tractor. Without loader you can go up to about 28 with care. I cant imagine you having any problem with an atv on those slopes unless you insist on speed.
larry

 

[volunteer]

Having 17 acres with the same type of hilly terrain and being new to tractors as well, I faced the same issue you are. I lurked around this site, read hundreds of posts and finally got the nerve to post my own questions. The advice you have been given is excellent:

1. Ag tires, filled.
2. Tires turned out for additional width/stability.
3. ROPS and seat belt, a must.
4. Front weights if no FEL.
5. 4 wheel drive.
6. Go slow, learn your property's characteristics. Driving over an unseen hole, log, or rock can change your tractor's stability. Go slow!
7. Go up and down but realize that you will have to turn around so plan ahead the areas for turn arounds.
8. Don't mow when it's damp, much less wet.
9. Learn about locking differential, you will be using it.
10. Watch out for thorns, they can flatten your tires.
11. Get a trailer/truck bed/FEL and go find those big rocks, logs that cause you problems, load 'em up, dump 'em out of the way.
12. Starting out, go in the lowest gear up and down and be in 4wd, The 4wd going downhill will act like a brake.
13. Seat belt, seat belt, seat belt.
14. Always have someone else there at home while mowing in case of any emergency.


This is now my second summer of mowing with bush hog. I lucked out and got advice here on Ford 3930 with 4wd, position control, front weights, no FEL. 45 horse at the PTO and tires could be turned out and filled. At first I was paralyzed and I drive 4WD jeeps up/down my hills. A neighbor came by and I got to watch him do it and soon I was doing it too. Used tractor had about 1100 hours and so far its done its job. I cut my yard about 4 times last year and will cut it about 6 times this year as we've had more rain. Anyway, I am no longer as scared of those hills but I still have great respect.

Last but not least, you will eventually learn to love the time you spend getting your land under control. Good luck on your tractor research and ultimate purchase.

 

[tnpete]

Did not read all the post.
But what ever tractor you go with. put in a lower gear, And hold the throttle wide open. With the tractor at or above PTO speed the wheels will hold going down the hill. but idle and it will runaway or take off sliding. But as long as the back wheels are turning slow and you do not hit the brakes. The tires will get you down the hill fine.
I go off one here and back up it also. and its a lot steeper than that one. and never have any problem.
Now I do bushhog one part that has washouts in it. I use the loader bucket with it on the ground I go over the washouts. Would not do it without the loader bucket on the ground.
Pete

 

[JerryG]

I do some Steep mowing
As some others have said be sure to have R-1 Ag tires. They will get a grip with the tread bars spreaded out with the sharp edges. The R-4s give you too flat of an area with too little of a gap to where the edge of the tread can't get a grip. Have a loader on with the bucket low to the ground or have suit case weights on the front. Always have the tractor in 4wd. That way you will have braking from the front wheels as well as from the rears. Go straight up and down. Don't do anything that is very steep sideways. I have a Power Shuttle manual transmission and don't have any problems at all on the above types of hills going forward up, making a turn and driving forward back down. Now, if you have brush that is large enough to raise the front of the tractor, then you would need to mow driving down the hill. You don't want to get into a situation where the brush raises the front of the tractor when you are already on a steep slope anyway. That would only make the situation worse that it was to start with.

At one time, there was some talk about what angle a hydro could take and still be able to pickup fluid from the sump. One owner in another thread said that he lost hydro and had only brakes around 30 degrees. Did anyone here ever received any information from a manufacture on that subject?

 

[Timber]

Wow that is a pretty steep grade. My thought would be a set of Duel rears on the tractor. I am sure someone must also make an extreme off center rim as well

 

[G-force]

Well to update this thread, it looks like I've finally decided on my tractor setup and will be taking delivery either Friday or Saturday of this week. The setup I'm going with will be the;

Kubota B2620 with 4wd HST, Loader, Juiced AG R-1 tires, and a land pride 48" rotary cutter.

I'll update with some pics after this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

 

[botayota]

I have a steep bank in the back of my property that ends at the woods line, so no option for a turn around there. What are some options for mowing this with a Brush Hog? I will post some pictures to give you a better idea.

I have mowed some of the hill running cross the hill, it felt a little tippy, but the tractor held on, I've been reluctant getting too close to the woods line since I think it's steeper there.

This is my 1st tractor & first time cutting this hill, so will take some getting use too I'm sure.

 

[flusher]

Well to update this thread, it looks like I've finally decided on my tractor setup and will be taking delivery either Friday or Saturday of this week. The setup I'm going with will be the;

Kubota B2620 with 4wd HST, Loader, Juiced AG R-1 tires, and a land pride 48" rotary cutter.

I'll update with some pics after this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

Good choice. Botas are excellent tractors. My first tractor was a 2005 4WD Kubota B7510HST with the LA302 FEL (4ft bucket). I enjoyed every minute of seat time on that little gem. Traded it in last March for a Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD) to handle haying chores.

Regarding your steep hills, my 1964 MF-135 diesel (45 hp engine, 37 hp pto) would be my choice if I had to mow that baby.

It's set up for orchard work--wide, high flotation rear tires that are water-filled on 16" dia wheels and short front axle spindles. The rears measure 84 inches between the outside of the tires and the centerline of the rear axle is about 21 inches above grade. A low-squatter like my 135 is what you need to tackle that hill.