What are you paying for Stihl chain?

[SpringHollow]

All my Stihl saws have been that way since day one. And they were still that way 20 years later when i traded them in. The new ones are like that also. Used the 660 yesterday for a few tankfuls. Today, 8 pulls - 6 before it first fired, 2 on warm choke setting. Fresh premium gas with Stabil and Stihl 2 stroke oil.

Love the 660 for cutting up bundled slab wood. This is great slab wood too, all hard woods 3 - 4" thick on average with no bark. Bundles are (3'+) x (3'+) x (10-12'). The 660 powers through it, cutting it up in one tankful of gas with only taking my finger off the trigger to move it to the next set of cuts.

Ken

 

[fabsroman]

We do loops at about 1. per inch and we currently have the second chain at 1/2 price as well.

We do like the semi chisel and our customers rave about it for overall performance year around.

Now for those of you that need to pull eight times. It is hard to find a Stihl product that doesn't start when cold on the third pull if it has been run in the pst week!

Two pulls with the choke on and they should have fired, running on the third pull..

If they don't start at that you have a problem.

High test gas that is fresh is a must with the ethanol and you should be fine.

My saw was brand new. The gas was 89 octane from Shell with Stihl oil mixed in. Should I be going with the premium grade gas instead of the medium grade? It won't break the bank.

Maybe I'll try to start the saw tomorrow and see how it does. Don't know if I will be getting back out in the next week or so. Hoping to get some cutting done on Wednesday, but who knows with the schedule I have.

 

[fabsroman]

Stihl likes you to use a 13/64 file on their 3/8 per their info. I still use 7/32 on 3/8.

RMC is just semi-chisel, not low pro picco chain that takes 5/32 file.

Here the link in this thread will help you identify stihl chains and sizes. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain/identifying-stihl-saw-chain/

This chain sharpening stuff is giving me a headache, which tells me that my dad never had a clue what he was doing when he was sharpening his chains. The other day he mentioned that he needed a new chain and I asked him why he didn't just sharpen his. His response was that whenever he sharpened them with a file, they never cut straight again.

Found 18" chain brand new for $4 more than the dealer wants to sharpen them. Of course, my dealer is charging $33 for the same chain I can get for $19. Utterly crazy.

With all that said, I think I am starting to understand this chain sharpening stuff. I read the manual to the Oregon 510 sharpener and it makes a lot of sense. Problem is that the guide it provides is only for Oregon chain and it does not match the Stihl chain that I have. With some research (e.g., what Oregon chain works on my Stihls) I could probably figure it out. Wish there was more information for the Stihl sharpener.

 

[LD1]

This chain sharpening stuff is giving me a headache, which tells me that my dad never had a clue what he was doing when he was sharpening his chains. The other day he mentioned that he needed a new chain and I asked him why he didn't just sharpen his. His response was that whenever he sharpened them with a file, they never cut straight again.

Found 18" chain brand new for $4 more than the dealer wants to sharpen them. Of course, my dealer is charging $33 for the same chain I can get for $19. Utterly crazy.

With all that said, I think I am starting to understand this chain sharpening stuff. I read the manual to the Oregon 510 sharpener and it makes a lot of sense. Problem is that the guide it provides is only for Oregon chain and it does not match the Stihl chain that I have. With some research (e.g., what Oregon chain works on my Stihls) I could probably figure it out. Wish there was more information for the Stihl sharpener.

I still dont like them power sharpeners. I like the file-guide type like baileys sells. They are around $30 and will work with any chain if you have the right file:thumbsup:

And it only takes about 5 minutes to sharpen a 24" chain once you get some experience. And no need to take the chain off the saw. So whatever time you may save with a grinder, is spent taking the chain off the saw and putting it back on again. I can say that I can probabally have a saw sharpened and be back in the field in less time with a granberg (file guide) vs an electric grinder:thumbsup:

 

[fabsroman]

I still dont like them power sharpeners. I like the file-guide type like baileys sells. They are around $30 and will work with any chain if you have the right file:thumbsup:

And it only takes about 5 minutes to sharpen a 24" chain once you get some experience. And no need to take the chain off the saw. So whatever time you may save with a grinder, is spent taking the chain off the saw and putting it back on again. I can say that I can probabally have a saw sharpened and be back in the field in less time with a granberg (file guide) vs an electric grinder:thumbsup:

Yeah, I am still debating the entire chain sharpening route. Looked at the Northern Industrial electric sharpener for $100 and out of the first 20 or so reviews I read everybody was swearing by it.

I plan on having a bunch of chains around. I have 3 right now for the MS261 and am about to buy 2 or 3 more of the full chisel chain. I have a single chisel chain on the MS660 but am looking at another 2 or 3 for it. It cannot be that hard to swap chains out in the field. In fact, I would prefer swapping the chains versus trying to sharpen them in the field. It just seems a lot easier to me. A couple bolts/nuts, some tensioning with a screw, and then you are off once again.

I am debating the purchase of a tackle box for all the chainsaw chains and supplies so I can keep everything together. That is what I do for most of the stuff I do. I have a tackle box for the muzzleloader, one for the rifles when I go to the range, another for the shotgun choke tubes and lube when I go to the range, obviously several for fishing, and a couple for cycling. Figured I might as well put together a tackle box or tool box for the chainsaws.

 

[MarkV]

My advice would be to do a bit more research on sharpening chains in the field. If you take 5 minutes after ever tank of fuel to run a file over the cutters a chain will last a long time. Once it starts to dull it heats up and once it gets too hot it loses its temper. After that has happened it will never hold a lasting edge well again.

MarkV

 

[xyz123]

With some research (e.g., what Oregon chain works on my Stihls) I could probably figure it out.

Your stihls should be 050 or 063 gage.

This is similar to stihl RS and RSC

Standard Sequence:
72LGX: 3/8" pitch, .050" gauge
73LGX: 3/8" pitch, .058" gauge
75LGX: 3/8" pitch, .063 gauge

Standard Sequence:
72LPX: 3/8" pitch, .050" gauge;
73LPX: 3/8" pitch, .058" gauge;
75LPX: 3/8" pitch, .063 gauge

This is like the RMC

Standard Sequence:
72DP: 3/8" pitch, .050" gauge
73DP: 3/8" pitch, .058" gauge
75DP: 3/8" pitch, .063" gauge

.325 chain like RSC

20LPX: .325" pitch, .050" gauge;
21LPX: .325" pitch, .058" gauge;
22LPX: .325" pitch, .063" gauge

I dont see one like RMC in 325

Hope this helps some.

 

[om21braz]

I still dont like them power sharpeners. I like the file-guide type like baileys sells. They are around $30 and will work with any chain if you have the right file:thumbsup:

And it only takes about 5 minutes to sharpen a 24" chain once you get some experience. And no need to take the chain off the saw. So whatever time you may save with a grinder, is spent taking the chain off the saw and putting it back on again. I can say that I can probabally have a saw sharpened and be back in the field in less time with a granberg (file guide) vs an electric grinder:thumbsup:

+1 Search out someone who knows how to sharpen a chain right to give you some tips. It sure helped me. Nothing like a "hands on" lesson and as others have mentioned, unless the chain is in terrible shape - a file will handle the job and yield more life out of a chain.

 

[xyz123]

LD1 if you got any trim saws running 3/8LP chain. Give this new stuff 63PS3 a try. We now have real chisel chain for picco again. The 3 gives it the safety chain designation, but the bumper is real low to the cutter and isnt a problem. I was told by others the bumper didnt effect bore cuts for the trimmers in the trees.
In my testing it cut 15% to 20% faster out of the box compared to several other chain in LP cutting 8x8 with 35cc. Plus side it can be square filed for even faster chain.


Only thing IMO that could improve it is come out with a 63PS chain.

Here is PMC compared to the new PS3

 

[LD1]

LD1 if you got any trim saws running 3/8LP chain. Give this new stuff 63PS3 a try. We now have real chisel chain for picco again. The 3 gives it the safety chain designation, but the bumper is real low to the cutter and isnt a problem. I was told by others the bumper didnt effect bore cuts for the trimmers in the trees.
In my testing it cut 15% to 20% faster out of the box compared to several other chain in LP cutting 8x8 with 35cc. Plus side it can be square filed for even faster chain.


Only thing IMO that could improve it is come out with a 63PS chain.

Here is PMC compared to the new PS3

Definatally looks like it would cut faster. But honestly, when I grab a trim saw, speed isnt really a concern.

But what is, is cutter life. I HATE harpening them small chains. Havning to swap files and all And we usually are using the trim saw in dirty conditions, like cutting off small sapplings at ground level to get to the bigger wood.

So...if it is anything like chisel vs semi-chisel on the larger chains (as far as how long they stay sharp) I dont think I would like it. We usually sharpen out bigger saws 3 or 4 times to ever once on the trim saw. But they do cut more wood too. Who knows, maybe I'll try a loop if the $$ isnt too terrible.:thumbsup: