one and only one

[Ken]

The New edition 346xp (50cc) as some decent torque for a high rpm screamer. But you're right, the old edition 346xp (45cc) isn't very torquey. I learned to let the saw cut at the rate it wanted. Worked great for 9 years! Then I learned about porting saws and all **** broke lose!

I ported the old 346, bought and ported a 357xp, had Stumpy build me a ported 75cc 365, bought and ported a 359 (very good saw there). My only stock saws now are the newer 346xp and the 562xp. The 562 does not need any mods, it's perfect as is! Husky did a jam up job here. I still use the stock 346xp as is and it does a fine job.

Now for the 550xp, I have heard it has gobs more torque than the 346 it replaced. Several of the saw nuts that have run a 550 say it doesn't need porting, but a MM makes it even stronger. One guy said it cuts like a strong 60cc, but in a 40cc size package. I'll probably have to get one at some point.

I don't normally read this forum but the need for a better chain than standard Sthil 20" brought me to reading this.
My question is the porting the engine. Is this enlarging the exhaust port or intake port. or am I reading into the something else is done.
My Sthil runs good just wondering.

And is the standred Sthil 20" chain about as good as any other.
ken

 

[arrow]

I don't normally read this forum but the need for a better chain than standard Sthil 20" brought me to reading this.
My question is the porting the engine. Is this enlarging the exhaust port or intake port. or am I reading into the something else is done.
My Sthil runs good just wondering.

And is the standred Sthil 20" chain about as good as any other.
ken

Ken. there are 3 areas a chainsaw can be ported (enlarged). Intake port, exhaust port and transfer ports. Usually a "woods" port is the enlarging and/or matching the exhaust muffler port and then maybe a polishing of the sides. Racing ports do all of the ports plus they might deck the head for more compression (a great way to make any 318 come alive by the way). There is a general consensus that Sthil makes the best chains of all. I know my best chains have been Sthil.

 

[LD1]

Porting is for the advanced person only IMO. Lots to screw up and be worse off than before.

There is a whole science to it, and I suggest you do a search and read. There is literally days worth of reading on the subject. But there is meoe than just hogging out and making the port bigger. Its about WHERE to make it bigger. Unlike a a 4-stroke engine, the "timing" is controlled by the port location. If you mess with the top or bottom of the port in "making it bigger" you basically just changed the timing and duration of the intake and exhaust functions.

And it would help by telling us what saw you have to work with.

 

[arrow]

We/ve gotten a bunch of preferences. I am glad Echo got represented. I guess a light chainsaw with a large power band is probably the most popular type. I remember how thrilled I was to get a hold of Husky's first anti vibe saw in 1970. I bought 3 180's and was tickled pink. Ironically we have not come too far tech wise in the last 40 years. Chainsaws have been made mostly lighter and higher revving. Not until now where Husky has innovated once more and brought us small saws that act as large ones. How they hold up professionally remains to be seen but they are something. If I were buying one all arounder tomorrow, I'd go with the Husky 550 with an 18" bar. I'd keep the 372 with a 24" bar and a carbide tipped chain for stumping and larger stuff. If I wanted a larger and smaller combo and buying new, I'd pick the 365 and the 550. For the money, the 365 is a ton of chainsaw.

 

[Tollster]

I was going to match port the exhaust on my 550 using machinist bluing, but decided to leave well enough alone. It was just a matter off bluing the muffler flange, bolting it up for the bluing transfer to the exhaust flange coming off the head, then using a dermal burr to remove the unblued material closest to the exhaust tract. You can do this for the intake side as well.
Polishing the interior of the intake tract with various grits and rouge has always been up in the air and has two sides to each story. One claim is it increases flow, like a smooth bottom creek bed versus a rocky one, the other side of the story is, less atomization of the fuel/air mixture due to the smooth surface.
I did my Fatboy intake and added a 220 grit swirl pattern using the dermal with the flapping wheel. Could not tell a difference due to all the other mods I did at the same time.
Typically exhaust and intake mods offer the biggest HP and Torque gains for the least amount of money, however, nothing talks like cubic inches, everything else just optimizes whats already there.

 

[RobertN]

I think... my Husky is a 1100CD or 2100CD from the early 70's. It does not have a chainbrake, so maybe earlier 99cc 1100CD. It runs and cuts great.

I remember how thrilled I was to get a hold of Husky's first anti vibe saw in 1970. I bought 3 180's and was tickled pink. Ironically we have not come too far tech wise in the last 40 years.

 

[Scooby074]

Another thumbs up to the 562xp, as it breaks in and you get used to it you don't even realize what a performer it is till it runs out of fuel and you grab your old saw to finish up and think boy I could chew through this faster !

This!!

Ive been running the new saw exclusively lately, but I had to fire up the old 51 because it was handy... literally nite and day difference. You really do get spoiled.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

RobertN that looks like my 2100 that has had the muffler mods. It is a beast for cutting. I run a 36" or 28" bar with no problems

 

[arrow]

nothing talks like cubic inches, .

Actually something does…its called rpms. A Formula 1 race car carries about a 2.4 liter motor making about 780 hp. They also have about an 18,000 rpm redline.
I have never noticed great gains by polishing in any of the auto engines I was around and built.

 

[Bluegill2]

I don't normally read this forum but the need for a better chain than standard Sthil 20" brought me to reading this.
My question is the porting the engine. Is this enlarging the exhaust port or intake port. or am I reading into the something else is done.
My Sthil runs good just wondering.

And is the standred Sthil 20" chain about as good as any other.
ken

Like said, porting can make or break a saw. I did a bunch or reading on another chainsaw site before I did any porting. I decided to play it safe and just widen the intake and exhaust ports and drop the base gasket for a bit higher compression. I got some decent gains. The guys doing the best work, are cutting the squish band and base of the cylinder for higher comp and changing the port timing, along with opening up all the ports, opening up the muffler and sometimes going with a larger carb.

Stihl makes a lot of different chain, so I can't answer your chain question. I use RSC chisel and RMC semi chisel both yellow non-safety chain. I like semi best of all for my conditions.