Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission

[moto96]

Mine did something similar. Turned out that the nut holding the hub backed off a bit and was allowing it to spin over the axle. It did rub the splines off a bit, but I torqued the living poop outta it in hopes that the damage is minimal.

 

[alvin marshall]

Thanks for all the good info. I also have tranny problems and could use a e mail with the manual info if you would. Thanks, Al I tore it down and I think the pump might be ok. The outside gear for the brake turns both ways with the control lever. I found a broken axle shaft. Can it be welded?

 

[alvin marshall]

Wanted to post an update on my trans situation. Pulled both trans in about 30 minutes, pulled the allen head fill plug right next to the vent port, turned them over and drained them over night. Measured out 58 ozs of fresh 20w50 for each trans, poured it in really slowly so as to allow air time and space to escape. Replaced both trans in about 20 minutes, purged the system as per the service manual and put her on the ground. Cut about 6 hours that day with not a single problem! WooHoo! Thank you Jesus and TBN forums! Special thanks to JTKub for help with the manuals. Saved myself $2000 and a lot of downtime by doing a little research and busting a couple knuckles(the fill port allens were TIGHT)!
Thanks again JTKub. Anyone needing assistance with the procedure please feel free to message me. It is worth $20 and an hour or two of your time to try this before going out and blowing a bundle on an over-priced, generally dishonest and misinformed service center!

Yes, I could use the tranny manual for the zrt as I have a broken axle to remove. If you can e mail I would very much appreciate it. marshallpoolsexc@netzero.net

 

[kasedian]

Ive got a good one for you guys. I have a RZT50. Had it for about 5 years now, with 250 hours. After the first year I had it, the left side transmission went out. Had it replaced under warranty. Well, anyways, I got to looking at it a year later, and the hydrostat that they put in was a little different than the other one. The only thing I noticed, was that the replaced one had a vent tube coming out of the top, down the side oabout 6 inches. The original side hydro has a hose going up under the seat to a fluid resevoir. Well, I retrofitted the fitting, got rid of the vent tube, and ran it up to the resevoir.
I dont know about your machines, but do most of them have these fluid resevoirs? I see warnings not to power wash them, and was wondering if that only pertained to the ones with vents. Thanks

 

[dauphin]

I have the same problems with my RTZT50 (3years old 200 hours) left side stops working after 30 minutes use and transmission is very hot. fine again after cool down.

I removed both transmissions on my RZT50 and both had good looking oil in them. They were both filled to the top under the hex plug section of the trans. and looked empty under the overflow area of both transmissions.

Is this normal having no oil on overflow side?
Can anyone tell me how exactly to know how much oil to put in the trans. under the hex plub fill side and under the overflow area?

Thank you

 

[dauphin]

PLEASE HELP ANYONE

I pulled both of my transmissions on my rtz50 drained oil in both.

Took apart left side trans. (bad one) and shimed rubbing gear. Put back together and refilled both with oil. Gears are turning fine when the bypass is engaged and not engaged so I am fairly sure it went back together properly.

Re installed and purged following hydro gear manuel instructions.

Left side now does not work at all. I have tried everything belt tensioon, purged and repurged many times. Making wining noises and no power.

If anyone can help me out with any other ideas please let me know. I am desperate and am thinking about buying a new transmission and hate to spend the $500.00 after owning the mower for just 3 years

Thank you

 

[american]

thanks everybody, i am ready to take a crack at diy hdrive repairs!! tale to follow.:thumbsup:

 

[fairplay]

my trouble was the simple one.thank God. i could not find the cub oem belt so after a little research i bought both the 57" and 58" belts. i decided on the 58" as i was not excited about stetching that spring 1 more inch. turns out that extra 1/2" of belt let the tensioner pulley rest on the chassis, preventing full tension. went to the 57" belt and suffered the extra stretch of the spring and the cub rides again. 185hrs. reading this thread put on the right track, without spending any $. i am truly greatful-thanks.

 

[dauphin]

I have been back and forth with my ezt transaxle and after the 3rd tear apart and rebuild I finally gave up and ordered a new unit from turftractor.com.

I guess the poistons inside were beyond repair and I did not want to order the interior parts for a rebuild not knowing if it would solve the problem. The price with shipping was well under $500.00 and I had it in 3 days installed it in 15 minutes and everything was ok.

Now I will change the oil after every season to help prevent future problems.

What I did was cut a hole above hex plugs over both transaxles.

I also made a oil pump from two tubes connected to a drill pump with adapters that go from 1/8" hose up to garden hose adapters to pump out old oil.

I do recomend turftractor.com they followed up with shaft questions to make sure I received the right part. There has been some changes in the design of the EZT my cub cadet uses.

 

[brianholland]

I am having a problem that is at least related to the issue on this thread. I have an RZT50 and have had no power problems with transmission. However, on the last mow I noticed mid-way through that a heavy vibration was occurring all the sudden. I killed the PTO thinking it was a deck problem of some sort and it continued. After inspection, I noticed that the transmission pulley was bouncing or vibrating. I released the Idler Bracket Spring to make sure it wasn't the main shaft and the vibration and bounce stopped. With the mower running, I carefully pulled the spring by hand to increase tension on the transmission drive belt and as it sped up the vibration would start. Could this just be a drive belt that needs replaced? Or possibly the idler pulley itself (bad bearing or something) The belt does not look worn, but I noticed that the idler pulley was nearly fully extended when the spring is re-engaged. I turned the two transmission pulleys by hand and they seemed to spin fairly smoothly. Any guesses on first steps? By the way, thanks for the great forum.