?? NAA Lift Arm Pivot Stud in axle housing spinning

[sashooter]

There are 2 "wear issues" to be considered on the hub/axle fitment. 1st, the "incline" between the components can wear, in which case the metal shims could help the poor fitment. As the "incline" wears, the hub will have to go further onto the axle to be tight. Eventually, the axle shoulder will protrude from the hub and the jointure can't be tightened adequately. 2nd, the splines on the hubs, being softer, can wear on the "sides", allowing radial movement of the hub on the axle, when reversing tractor direction. In this case, the radial movement will quickly cause further wear.

For your repair it seems what you did is order new hubs and axles? With new hubs and axles you would not need the shims at all? Everything should go back as new correct?

 

[tmajor]

No, as far as I know, shims in addition to the 2 standard shims, are needed to acquire the correct 0.000" -0.002" end play. Also, the "shims required", isn't a factor of the wear of the hubs and/or axle splines. The shims adjust for the length of the axles from each of the axle bearings to the other one, in relationship to the width of the axle housings and center housing. ... if that makes sense.

 

[sashooter]

I mean the bootleg shims. The ones that you make from banding straps when the hubs and axles are worn that sound guy said. Yes the 2 required shims that are standard would still be needed no matter.

 

[tmajor]

Yes, you are correct. With the new hub and new axle, no "fix it" shims would be used. Also, with a good used axle and a new hub, no "fix it" shims would be needed. The creator of one site, said "he had rarely seen a bad axle, as the hubs were softer, so failed first". I haven't found that to be entirely true.

 

[Soundguy]

correct.

the hub is soft, and the axle hard.. but you can for sure get a worn axle. once they alre loose, it is still metal on metal, and I have seen some pretty worn axle splines that fell thru a new hub like a wrench in a closet.

 

[tmajor]

I received the new axle today. The axle on the left is the old one and the right is the new one. I slipped the hub on both axles and noted the amount of axle
protruding through the hub ..... they looked about the same! ?? I didn't torque either one of them. You'll notice on the old axle (left) the flutes are worn on the the right side, even in kind of an arc. While the new axle flutes are straight. Also, notice the shiny areas on the old axle, where I'm sure, the hub was moving on the axle. Also, the forward drive side of the flutes are shiny.

 

[Soundguy]

threads look better too!

 

[sashooter]

Yep. The new axle looks good compared to the old one. Do you have to install the old bearing on the new axle? Is that bearing pressed on or just slide right on the axle. I am planning on doing just the job you are doing this winter so hopefully I get a good grasp on it here.

 

[tmajor]

Do you have to install the old bearing on the new axle? Is that bearing pressed on or just slide right on the axle.

I don't know, how tight the bearing is, but it was pretty well filled with rust dust and grease and I didn't know, if I could get it off gently, so ordered a new one, which should be here tomorrow.

 

[tmajor]

I am planning on doing just the job you are doing this winter so hopefully I get a good grasp on it here.

Rather than use a pipe wrench or some such to remove the axle nut, Tractor Supply has a 3/4" drive - 2" socket for $12.xx. The cheapest I could find!