?? NAA Lift Arm Pivot Stud in axle housing spinning

[tmajor]

@soundguy Yeah, I saw your PMs. The hub is new and the axle "looks good", but the hub goes on too far. I've got a whole complement of new parts ordered ... axle, bearing, bearing retainer, another new oil seal The old bearing retainer was chewed-up and thin on the outside from the old hub. ?? It ate the axle seal in a few revolutions by hand.

I'm not really fond of the "paper shim" idea, if you have to pull things apart in the future, paper shims will be history and you'll need to start from scratch, again. I'm going to start with a feeler gauge and then to "try" cut my own metal shims, as needed.

 

[tmajor]

It's quite a lot of work to service the brakes!! :laughing: I'm going to have the tractor split for a new clutch and pressure plate, shortly ... as soon, as I can get it, cleaned up and back on it's wheels. In the meantime, I'll get the sheet metal in order and painted. Then paint the red, when I get it back.

 

[Soundguy]

Paper shims are disposable, usually you don't go into a rear end but every 50 years or so

 

[tmajor]

Paper shims are disposable, usually you don't go into a rear end but every 50 years or so

Maybe, these new aftermarket hubs aren't up to the old standards. ?? This will be my 3rd new hub in 30 years, and 2nd axle.

 

[Soundguy]

yikes... a hub / axle should last 50 years.

 

[tmajor]

yikes... a hub / axle should last 50 years.

Well, it's 62 years old, one hub was probably installed on a failing axle, so probably failed prematurely, .... so let's say, 2 axles and 2 hubs in 62 years. It seems to be just outside of warranty! :laughing:

 

[sashooter]

Yup, I just replied via pm asking about axle to hub fit. My guess one or both excessively worn. Makes hub fit inward too far, also likely can't torque nut to shoulder correct.

The redneck fix I to cut paper band in straps and shim the splines from hub to axle, torque nut, run, and keep checking for a week.

Booger fix but does work

What kind of paper band do you use. In the fo service manual it mentions something about what you just mentioned. I can't picture how they would go on the axle. Could you explain a little more? Or better yet do you have a picture of how you did it?

 

[Soundguy]

What kind of paper band do you use. In the fo service manual it mentions something about what you just mentioned. I can't picture how they would go on the axle. Could you explain a little more? Or better yet do you have a picture of how you did it?

dam phone butchers half of what I type. auto correct should be a feature that can be turned off.

palet banding material. IE.. metal straps cut into strips, then used to shim the axle to hub spline area so the hub does not set down far on the axle and have the axle shoulder protrude. once it protrudes, the nut will bottom on the axle and not hold the hub tight.

the paper shims are for the axle trumpets to set preload ( freeplay )

 

[tmajor]

There are 2 "wear issues" to be considered on the hub/axle fitment. 1st, the "incline" between the components can wear, in which case the metal shims could help the poor fitment. As the "incline" wears, the hub will have to go further onto the axle to be tight. Eventually, the axle shoulder will protrude from the hub and the jointure can't be tightened adequately. 2nd, the splines on the hubs, being softer, can wear on the "sides", allowing radial movement of the hub on the axle, when reversing tractor direction. In this case, the radial movement will quickly cause further wear.

 

[tmajor]

A little progress, while I'm waiting for rear end parts >>>

I have the sheet metal off and am changing the radiator. I want to get the tractor running, so that I can take it to have a clutch /pressure plate installed. So, I thought, I'd get the "hard to get to" front parts done, before hand. I'll finish the red, when I get it back.