mounting & dismounting your own tractor tires

[BearKiller]

MORE TIRE CHANGING INFO :


I mentioned a tubeless-tire bead seating "blaster"; here is a picture (and a link to Myer's Tire Supply) :

Cheetah- 10 Gallon Bead Seater

A better picture of a genuine tire "hammer" (I have seen these at TSC) :

Steel Head Truck Hammer 30'

H-F Changer Technique :


I haven't yet been able to get to H-F and acquire my own changer, therefore I don't have any means of proving my theory, but from studying the pictures of the changer, I think that possibly those who are having strength issues with the retaining device may possibly be utilizing the bead-breaker portion of the tool incorrectly.

Here is a picture for reference :

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

When I get a changer, it may prove me wrong, but I believe that, when breaking the beads loose, before mounting the tire/wheel assembly onto the shaft of the changer, the tire/wheel assembly is laid on the floor, with the tire against the changer upright, sort of laying on the support that is immediately under the breaker assembly, then the breaker is positioned and DOWNWARD force is applied to the breaker handle, relocating and working around the rim in increments until the bead gives loose.

Looking at the picture, it is hard to tell for sure, but it appears that there is an angled "positioner" on the bottom support directly underneath the bead-breaker assembly.

Once one side is loose, the tire/wheel is flipped over and the other side is broken loose in likewise fashion.

Your thoughts please.

 

[SPYDERLK]

MORE TIRE CHANGING INFO :

I believe that, when breaking the beads loose, before mounting the tire/wheel assembly onto the shaft of the changer, the tire/wheel assembly is laid on the floor, with the tire against the changer upright, sort of laying on the support that is immediately under the breaker assembly, then the breaker is positioned and DOWNWARD force is applied to the breaker handle, relocating and working around the rim in increments until the bead gives loose.

Looking at the picture, it is hard to tell for sure, but it appears that there is an angled "positioner" on the bottom support directly underneath the bead-breaker assembly.

Once one side is loose, the tire/wheel is flipped over and the other side is broken loose in likewise fashion.

Your thoughts please.

You are absolutely correct. How else would someone chose to use it?
larry

 

[dfkrug]

You are absolutely correct. How else would someone chose to use it?

They way I used it in the original post, Larry.

I also noted that in post #5 that the bead breaker can be used downward
also.

 

[GPintheMitten]

To break a bead on a tire, I have on occassion done this:

Remove all air (remove needle valve or whatever you call it from inside the valve stem)

Drive up and over the tire positioning the stear tire on the bead. This will usually break the bead.

 

[Sunkistdds]

I would not recommend it but in a pinch ( no pun intended) used a front end loader to break a bead. The method is pretty obvious, and away from the stem of course.

Has anyone seen a product that is like a regular tire bead breaker in method used, but much larger and has a hydraulic ram pointed down to break a big rear bead? I would think it would work. I have been thinking of making one that would either work on a floor, or over the tire on a mounted tire.

 

[dfkrug]

I would not recommend it but in a pinch ( no pun intended) used a front end loader to break a bead.

That is what I showed in post #13. It will not be enough pressure for
most tires, including the R4 I showed in first photos. I have only been
successful with that method, or using a hydraulic jack, with R1 tires.

 

[mlauk]

I use the bead cheata to break the bead on the tire. They have gone up in price quite a bit since I bought mine, but it works great. There are also other similar brands out there.

5500 Bead-Cheata [Shoup Manufacturing Company]

I sometimes use it to install a tire on a wheel. When the tire is stiff, I just put the bead cheata on to hold the tire in the well opposite of where I am using the tire irons to put the bead back over the rim.

 

[BearKiller]

Has anyone seen a product that is like a regular tire bead breaker in method used, but much larger and has a hydraulic ram pointed down to break a big rear bead? I would think it would work. I have been thinking of making one that would either work on a floor, or over the tire on a mounted tire.

Click on this page :

Bead Breakers


We have used and worn-out at least three of the blue IMT 210s (7th picture from top), plus the necessary foot-pedal-operated hydraulic pumps at the bottom of the page.

They will break loose any tire you will ever come up against; the ones we have get used many many times every day and last for years.

For the occassional job that takes us away from the shops conveniences, we have a couple of the manual breakers, 11th picture down from the top.



Unless you care not for the rim and the tire is junk, I don't recommend using a loader-bucket (or similar means) for breaking loose beads.

Side-walls are a lot weaker than one would think and one slip can cost a tire.

Also, if the wire bead gets kinked or broken, the tire is then a junk tire.

We just had a 16.5 skid-steer blow off the rim today that someone had tried to operate on it while flat.

Impossible to see, the bead wire had seperated from the casing and, when one of the guys started airing it up to find the problem, KERWHOOOOOMMMM!!!!!! Nobody was kilt, just somewhat shook up.

 

[valley]

There are some good discriptions of how to do it on this thread. Sure hope I don't have to get to that too soon. Richard

 

[BearKiller]

>> GOOD SWAP-MEET SCORE <<

I went to the big Super Sunday Indy swap-meet yesterday and came home with a ton of goodies.

I got a brand-new, never used, slightly dusty, H-F manual tire-changer for so cheap that I ain't even gonna say.

I haven't yet had a tire/wheel to try it on, but I have got it assembled and checked out.

Already I see one MAJOR improvement that I soon intend to remedy.

That pitiful puny little four-legged "spider" center hold-down gizmo leaves a lot to be desired and probably is to blame for any slippage and scooting around of the tire/wheel assembly.

A much better hold-down device is a proper center-post "cone" such as found on any Coats 10-10, 20-20, 30-30, or 40-40, plus nearly any commercial center-post type changer.

My eyeball tells me that one of those cones should slide right down over the post of the H-F changer.

Although the genuine cone is meant to be threaded onto the post of the big boy changers, I believe when simply dropped over the post of the H-F changer that the screw-down holder gizmo will make good contact with the cone and hold it nicely; if not, then the "spider" can be used between the cone and screw.


I am gonna search the old tire-shop thoroughly, until I find an extra old cone from a long scrapped changer; as many as we have junked, surely I can come up with one.