Tractor search

[OSCGOLF]

OK... I'm a city boy, but my wife isn't... but I'm handy with the tools.
We are searching for an acreage to have a few horses. I know, they are lots of work... We are looking for 5-10 acres and some have told me... I need a tractor, to do some work around the place... mowing, manure spreading, hay moving, snow plowing, drive maintenance and maybe gardening. One of my friends says... a Ford 8N... another friend says a 4X4 utility... personally I like the vintage tractor idea.
I was thinking about something under $5K, with a 3 point hitch, wide front and no live PTO... any suggestions/opinions from the readers?

 

[flusher]

OK... I'm a city boy, but my wife isn't... but I'm handy with the tools.
We are searching for an acreage to have a few horses. I know, they are lots of work... We are looking for 5-10 acres and some have told me... I need a tractor, to do some work around the place... mowing, manure spreading, hay moving, snow plowing, drive maintenance and maybe gardening. One of my friends says... a Ford 8N... another friend says a 4X4 utility... personally I like the vintage tractor idea.
I was thinking about something under $5K, with a 3 point hitch, wide front and no live PTO... any suggestions/opinions from the readers?

You see a lot of Ford 8Ns around all over the place for $3K or so. The trick is to find one that hasn't been worked to death to the point that the engine and tranny are nearly shot.

If you can pull an engine and do a rebuild, then you have a lot more choices than someone who's not so handy.

In Jul06 I bought a 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 diesel (45 hp engine, 35 hp pto, dual stage clutch) for $3600. Something like that would get your jobs done.

Right now I'm rebuilding a 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF tractor (27 hp gas engine, 3pt hitch, single stage clutch). Got it for $1300 and have another $1600 invested in a complete engine rebuild.

Check craigslist. There are lots of used tractors in the 25-45hp range that would work for you.

 

[wolc123]

It is really hard to go wrong with a Ford 8n. They are one of the toughest, most dependable tractors ever made, and to this day, no model has better parts availability. I have had one for about 25 years that I bought with 1200 hrs on it from the widow of the original owner. Since I gave it a valve job the second year (originals cant handle unleaded gas), it hasnt given me a bit of trouble. That old tractor will start right up quick, even when the temperature is well below zero, on the original 6 volt system. There is no modern tractor that I would rather have on my 2-row corn planter, or use for hauling firewood during the winter. Those are it's primary uses these days as my (5) newer tractors cover most of the other chores. One sure fire way to know you are getting a good engine, is to find one that starts good cold on 6 volts. 12 volt conversions are nearly always a band-aid to help a worn out engine start easier. Also, the 51 and 52 8n's are the best of the bunch with all the upgrades like proofmeter, side-mount distributer, etc.. These tractors were the most refined form of the first modern utility tractor, the Ford N. If you can find one of these in good shape for under $3000, you will probably not have any regrets. The older 9n's and 2n's had some issues like brakes on opposite sides, not enough forward gears, and lack of "position" hydraulic control. Another good thing about an N is, unlike a new tractor, you can nearly always sell them for more than you paid. In my opinion, you would be making a mistake to get any other make/model of tractor as your first one.

 

[tessiers]

I agree with the 8N as a good tractor, I have been looking for one for almost a year now and I just bought a NAA (after the 8N) model with 1800 original hours for $1000. The guy I bought it from is a friend of my fathers and his father bought it in 1957. I have a 2005 JD 4x4 with loader but I need another tractor and the Fords are hard to beat. I don't believe you will find a 4x4 for under $5000

 

[wolc123]

The NAA is a better tractor for brushogging than an N because it has live hydraulics, if they work. Live PTO dont mean a thing because niether N nor NAA had it and adding an overrunning coupler completely compensates for its lack ($75 at TSC). Thats where the NAA advantage ends however. The live hydraulics comes at a cost of a more trouble-prone system. It is a lot more difficult to find an NAA with functioning hydraulics than it is a bullet-proof N. Other advantages that go to the N are slightly better fuel economy and power/weight ratio. The NAA does give you a little more horsepower, but not enough to make it a real 3 plow tractor. You certainly did get a steal at $1000 however, especially if it had good tires and everything worked.

 

[TYMinColton]

Whatever you decide make sure you get a front-end loader (FEL). I have a couple of horses in the pacific NW that spend much of the winter in stalls. Stalls = manure; manure = shaving; shavings + manure = SERIOUS NEED FOR FEL . Trust me. I have an old Ford 881D (kinda like a seriously beefed up 8/9n with independent PTO) that I like, but without an FEL it's virtually useful for anything short of brushoggin, tilling, discing. . . With an FEL you'll find endless uses from digging holes, moving rocks, poppin stumps, opening your mailbox - heck, even moving manure. . . .

Good luck with your decision - land = Good excuse to get a tractor; tractor = more fun than you can shake a stick at. . .
P

 

[ToadHill]

All my Amish friends use the horse to do all the chores around the place and since you plan to have some anyway, it looks like that will solve your problem.

 

[Sockwell]

I agree with folks about the 8N. One other point, if you are good with tools, the 8N is much more simple engine and transmission to keep running, similar to an older car versus a current model.

If it helps with your decision, my 8N is now being rebuilt by a local tractor mechanic. He is resleeving the engine, doing a valve job, planing the head and block, going through the carb, cleaning the gas tank, putting in a tune-up kit, replacing the belts, filters and hoses, putting in a new battery, inspecting the brakes, transmission, and lift system for $1500. The price includes parts and labor for the engine, but not the parts for the items being inspected.

 

[flusher]

I agree with folks about the 8N. One other point, if you are good with tools, the 8N is much more simple engine and transmission to keep running, similar to an older car versus a current model.

If it helps with your decision, my 8N is now being rebuilt by a local tractor mechanic. He is resleeving the engine, doing a valve job, planing the head and block, going through the carb, cleaning the gas tank, putting in a tune-up kit, replacing the belts, filters and hoses, putting in a new battery, inspecting the brakes, transmission, and lift system for $1500. The price includes parts and labor for the engine, but not the parts for the items being inspected.

$1500 for an engine rebuild on your 8N is about what I paid to have the 4-cyl Hercules engine rebuilt on my 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF tractor a few months ago ($800 parts, $800 labor). Block hot cleaned, cylinders rebored 0.020, new pistons/rings, new valve seats to handle unleaded gas, new exhaust valves (intake valves OK), crankshaft machined 0.010 under, new bearings, reassembled to short block config.

 

[bjr]

Read and Read some more. Be aware of maintenance of a tractor and associated attachements such as FEL's. Just know of the extra traction of the newer 4 wheel drives vs the vintage 2 wheel drives. My own experience was "it's all about the 3 pt attachments". I heavily invested in anything that can be attached to the back of a modern tractor. I own a Jinma JM354 with NO FEL, and I don't have horses. bjr