Bush Hog advice

[TripleR]

I agree. You don't have to think where the cutter is if it is the same width. It just follows the same track. The downside is you can't trim as close to obstacles. It is easy to get too close if your cutter is the same size as tractor.
That is one of the negative of a pull behind cutter. It is easier to get out when you can just raise the cutter and get out of trouble. A pull behind adds another wrinkle to things. You can always unhook the cutter an get out of trouble, but you will not like doing that.

Yeah, you really have to prioritize your needs when selecting a cutter type and size.

Actually we haven't found the pull type or three point easier to get out of a situation, just different.

We have had fewer encounters with fences/trees with the pull type as it doesn't swing out when turning, but you can't turn as sharp, decisions, decisions.

 

[Transit]

Stlawrence, what about transport? With a 3 point hitch you dont have to drag the hog around, just lift it.

 

[TripleR]

Stlawrence, what about transport? With a 3 point hitch you don't have to drag the hog around, just lift it.

It would seem simple until you read this:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/176952-pull-bush-hog-lift-when.html

 

[stlawrence]

Dealer emphasized that the tractor would get light in the front end when hogging uphill, with the 3ph. Seems to me like front weights would be cheaper than the pull along rig difference.

I can see swinging the tractor around and taking out a section of fence with the 3ph rig, though!:laughing:

 

[TripleR]

Dealer emphasized that the tractor would get light in the front end when hogging uphill, with the 3ph. Seems to me like front weights would be cheaper than the pull along rig difference.

I can see swinging the tractor around and taking out a section of fence with the 3ph rig, though!:laughing:

I would advise weight on the front whether you use a three-point or pull type. We keep our FEL on as we often use it to push brush/saplings down to keep them off the cab and to find any stumps etc.

Where we found the greatest improvement in stability was on steep side slopes around our pond levies and side hills. It will be more stable on uphills due to the shorter fulcrum of the draw bar as opposed to lift arms, but we never had any trouble with the three point as long as you keep it on the ground.

We pull ours with an M8540 which has proven to be a very stable platform as was our CX80. Some tractors are just more stable than others. My M is better than my L and my MF is better than any.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Are you going to mow this field frequently? I have a 6' brush mower that I use to maintain (control wees in) pastures and also use it to reclaim old fields which are growing up in saplings. Mowing 50ac with a 6' mower would take a long time, especially if it wasn't flat/smooth enough to go very fast (as is the case with my rough and tilted fields!).
A wide unit would not be a big problem if you are mowing a whole field, with few or no obstructions. If you had a lot of trees to thread between/among, tractor width (plus or minus a bit) is probably a better idea...even if it means more time in the field.
The 3PH unit does swing wide and has to be backed into corners. Its just a matter of learning what it will do and driving appropriately.
My mower has a top chain, so it is effectively a tow-behind with hydraulically-adjustable front height when it is on the ground. If I had a hydraulic top link, it would be even easier, since I wouldn't have to get off the tractor and tighten up the link (and chain) before transporting it.

BOB

 

[Transit]

A wide deck will scalp high spots on uneven ground, doesnt do much good for the blades.

 

[stlawrence]

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

 

[TripleR]

A wide deck will scalp high spots on uneven ground, doesn't do much good for the blades.

A wide deck will scalp more easily than a narrower deck, but we really haven't had problems with either of our ten foot models, if it's too cobby, just don't mow so close.

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

Well that is true up to a point, but I recently spent six days mowing with our M8540 and L5030 with Woods DS1260 and Land Pride RCR2672 and it sure started feeling like work.

You certainly have a lot of things to consider.

 

[Transit]

That's a good point, transit, about the scalping with a wide deck. I suspect I may have some pretty uneven terrain - I have not even walked the whole property yet. McGregor is right, I fear, about the time aspect. I have not done the math yet, but 50+acres with a 6-foot hog is going to take some time - especially on the first clearing cut. The way I figure it, though, is that time in the tractor seat is good time.

Let's see if I'm still singing the same song next year, though.

If the fields are that wild you MUST, I say MUST have a filter-screen before the radiator or you will overheat the engine with all the crud that is vacuumed up.

You may want to cut high the first time too, never can tell what is in the field.