mcd176
Platinum Member
I had not seen this post before, This looks like a factory plow, I have decided, there are way to many projects that I would love to do!
VERY VERY VERY NICE JOB!
VERY VERY VERY NICE JOB!
Snow plow and mount for Kubota B7510
- Thread starter ASGAR
- Start date
-
- Tags
- kubota b7510
All,
I have gotten a few PMs about the hydro hook ups and the blade jumping.. here is a quick note about this. If I get more questions I will do a better job of explaining this, pics.
The loader valve will work fine once you figure it out. Moving the joystick left and right there will be a second arrow on the picture on the valve pointing to the right. This is the 'power' or non-regenerating position.
My set up used a two way cylinder for lift, ie, one cylinder with two hydo lines into it. When plugged into the 'lift' ports, the blade goes up pulling back on the joystick and down pushing forward on the joystick. (no surprise here)
I used a meyer plow with two cylinders for the angle. Each cylinder has only one hose, the standard cylinder that came with the plow for angle. I plugged each cylinder into the 'dump' side of the loader valve so that putting the stick to the left makes the plow angle left, put the stick to the right and it angles right.
OK, so basically one hose to one quick connect for angle function.
What I found happening is the blade goes in one direction really nicely but jumps and bucks and stops etc in the other direction, this is due to the 'regenerative' function of the loader valve. What happens is that the valve is made so that when you dump the bucket both hoses on the cylinder are hooked to the hydraulic pressure. Inside a normal cylinder the push the rod out side has more area then the pull the rod in side, because the area of the actual rod is not counted, be so that if you supply pressure to both ports the fluid pushes the cylinder rod out (same pressure * larger area = greater force then same pressure * smaller area = less force) this forces the flow of oil from the hydro pump and the flow of oil from the rod side of the cylinder to the other side of the cylinder to happen more quickly, the dump action to happen much faster then if the hydo-pump just pumped in fluid and let the other hose drain as normal. Ok, so how do you fix this?
There are three ways. What I do is just slam the joystick past the right detent to the power setting, there are actually two right postitions, normal right at the detent any pushing harder you get to the power spot. If you slam the joystick far right the blade will angle right as you wanted it to. Going left works as you would expect it to.
The second way is to look at your joystick sideways, use left and right to lift and lower the blade, right should lift if you don't want it to buck, then use forward and back on the joystick for left and right angle of the plow. This *should* work but I have not tried it.
The third way is to get rid of the two single action blade cylinders and replace it with one double acting, (two hose) cylinder. This should get rid of the jerking but you may still have to slam the joystick full right to get the blade to move well since gravity is not helping you in this case like it did with theFEL bucket. This *should* work but I have not tried it either.
If you get stuck describe your hose / cylinder set up to me and I will post a red-black-green-white color code at the valve to cylinder plumbing and tray toexplain this better.
I have gotten a few PMs about the hydro hook ups and the blade jumping.. here is a quick note about this. If I get more questions I will do a better job of explaining this, pics.
The loader valve will work fine once you figure it out. Moving the joystick left and right there will be a second arrow on the picture on the valve pointing to the right. This is the 'power' or non-regenerating position.
My set up used a two way cylinder for lift, ie, one cylinder with two hydo lines into it. When plugged into the 'lift' ports, the blade goes up pulling back on the joystick and down pushing forward on the joystick. (no surprise here)
I used a meyer plow with two cylinders for the angle. Each cylinder has only one hose, the standard cylinder that came with the plow for angle. I plugged each cylinder into the 'dump' side of the loader valve so that putting the stick to the left makes the plow angle left, put the stick to the right and it angles right.
OK, so basically one hose to one quick connect for angle function.
What I found happening is the blade goes in one direction really nicely but jumps and bucks and stops etc in the other direction, this is due to the 'regenerative' function of the loader valve. What happens is that the valve is made so that when you dump the bucket both hoses on the cylinder are hooked to the hydraulic pressure. Inside a normal cylinder the push the rod out side has more area then the pull the rod in side, because the area of the actual rod is not counted, be so that if you supply pressure to both ports the fluid pushes the cylinder rod out (same pressure * larger area = greater force then same pressure * smaller area = less force) this forces the flow of oil from the hydro pump and the flow of oil from the rod side of the cylinder to the other side of the cylinder to happen more quickly, the dump action to happen much faster then if the hydo-pump just pumped in fluid and let the other hose drain as normal. Ok, so how do you fix this?
There are three ways. What I do is just slam the joystick past the right detent to the power setting, there are actually two right postitions, normal right at the detent any pushing harder you get to the power spot. If you slam the joystick far right the blade will angle right as you wanted it to. Going left works as you would expect it to.
The second way is to look at your joystick sideways, use left and right to lift and lower the blade, right should lift if you don't want it to buck, then use forward and back on the joystick for left and right angle of the plow. This *should* work but I have not tried it.
The third way is to get rid of the two single action blade cylinders and replace it with one double acting, (two hose) cylinder. This should get rid of the jerking but you may still have to slam the joystick full right to get the blade to move well since gravity is not helping you in this case like it did with theFEL bucket. This *should* work but I have not tried it either.
If you get stuck describe your hose / cylinder set up to me and I will post a red-black-green-white color code at the valve to cylinder plumbing and tray toexplain this better.
JB4310
Super Member
I'm in the process of making a set up like this for my B7800. The Kubota mechanic says doing the "slam past the detent" thing will cause problems down the line. Any thought on this? Also, there's a wonderful place in Worcester, MASS that do all kinds of work with hoses and plows called Mechanics Bliss. They suggest putting a valve that regulates the max PSI that can flow through each line to the angle cylinders. Does this make sense to anyone? I don't want to purchase new cylinders if I don't have to and also don't want to destroy my hydraulics.
Dan W
Silver Member
I am a new member, joined-up this week. This is by far the best info site I have reviewed...
I wish I had discovered TBN site before I built my own plow. I would not have suffered through the regenerative hydraulic antics you described so well ASGAR. Thanks for taking the time to write the explanation, very helpful.
Also, I'm interested in your comments regarding my plow design. I made the blade out of 1/8" material, it is a 72" x 24" blade. I will upload more pictures shortly. Actaully, I'd appreciate comments by everyone...
I also used a tie-rod type cylinder for lift and 2 x single acting cylinders on the blade swing.
I like your plow harness. I am now considering adding longitudinal members on mine once the snow season subsides.
Lastly, thanks to your comments earlier, I installed a new hydraulic control valve this weekend, this sresolved the hydraulic lock-up issues I was having trying to adapt the Kubots L402 loader control valve to a combination double acting lift and two single acting blade swing cylinders... the new dual lever valve open centre spool valve works very well... thanks again
Dan
I wish I had discovered TBN site before I built my own plow. I would not have suffered through the regenerative hydraulic antics you described so well ASGAR. Thanks for taking the time to write the explanation, very helpful.
Also, I'm interested in your comments regarding my plow design. I made the blade out of 1/8" material, it is a 72" x 24" blade. I will upload more pictures shortly. Actaully, I'd appreciate comments by everyone...
I also used a tie-rod type cylinder for lift and 2 x single acting cylinders on the blade swing.
I like your plow harness. I am now considering adding longitudinal members on mine once the snow season subsides.
Lastly, thanks to your comments earlier, I installed a new hydraulic control valve this weekend, this sresolved the hydraulic lock-up issues I was having trying to adapt the Kubots L402 loader control valve to a combination double acting lift and two single acting blade swing cylinders... the new dual lever valve open centre spool valve works very well... thanks again
Dan
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Last edited:
Thanks AZGAR for all the info. It worked out well for me on my B7800. Plow was cheap ($100) materials were anout $125. Hoses and couplings from Kubota were outrageous. $175 for two hoses and two quick connects! Since I don't weld, but am a decent carpenter, I mocked up a subframe out of plywood and 2x4's and brought it to a local vocational high school to weld. Speedy Metals was very reasonable I thought and they will cut your stock to any size. That made things easier for the school to do. I also salvaged a receiver hitch from an old truck to save time and materials. Thanks again. Can't wait for snow and some new trip springs (the thing trips over way too easily).- J-Ski
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Fxfymn
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 163
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
- Tractor
- Kubota L4060 HST, FEL; Kubota BX2660
"I'm in the process of making a set up like this for my B7800. The Kubota mechanic says doing the "slam past the detent" thing will cause problems down the line. Any thought on this?"
I have used my loader valve to lift and swing a Meyer ST-90 for 6 years now on my L3430 without any problems. The regenerative valve does cause the occasional "stutter" when swinging the blade, but I found that if I let off of the valve and than re-apply it the plow swings fine.
Since I use quick connects to connect the plow's hydraulic hoses to the loader valve I'm going to try the "lift to turn" method described here to see if it works. I'll try it tomorrow and post the results.
As to the cost of hoses, conectors, etc. from Kubota, go to Baileys or the Surplus center where you will find the parts for considerably less.
I have used my loader valve to lift and swing a Meyer ST-90 for 6 years now on my L3430 without any problems. The regenerative valve does cause the occasional "stutter" when swinging the blade, but I found that if I let off of the valve and than re-apply it the plow swings fine.
Since I use quick connects to connect the plow's hydraulic hoses to the loader valve I'm going to try the "lift to turn" method described here to see if it works. I'll try it tomorrow and post the results.
As to the cost of hoses, conectors, etc. from Kubota, go to Baileys or the Surplus center where you will find the parts for considerably less.
WilliamBos
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,320
- Location
- Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- MF 1635 12x12 Powershuttle
Going to 'BUMP" this thread back to life. After reading this, and seeing the pics, we are going to build a plow set up for our 1635. Just accumulating pieces this winter, and hope to start it early summer.
If the guys who built theirs could update us with more pics, that would be great. ASGAR, Don, and others.
Could this thread become an update-able sticky Muhammad?? Or any mods with authority to do so, would be appreciated.
If the guys who built theirs could update us with more pics, that would be great. ASGAR, Don, and others.
Could this thread become an update-able sticky Muhammad?? Or any mods with authority to do so, would be appreciated.
RedNeckRacin
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2008
- Messages
- 2,517
- Location
- Western PA
- Tractor
- John Deere 5083E MFWD, Kubota L3400 HST
I'm actually selling my ASGAR inspired subframe from a B7510. Had to upgrade tractors to an L3400 :thumbsup: Its listed in the for sale section. Sorry for thread jacking! I have some videos i'll try and post when I get back on my other computer.