My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

An idea came to me as I was removing the coil and starter so I could gain access to the rivets holding the engine's data plate in place. Since my goal will be to simply move the tractor outside so I can sandblast it, then move it back into the garage so I can paint it, I could use the starter to move the tractor.

Getting the tractor out of the garage could be done by having someone push while I steered and applied the brakes to stop, so I would only need to use the starter to move it back into the garage. The tractor would only need to be moved about 15 feet, and placing the tractor it's lowest gear while leaving the spark plugs out to reduce the load on the starter, should get the job done without any damage to the starter. At least in theory anyway.

Granted, I'll have to wait until I've finished rebuilding the cylinder head before I can move the tractor outside to sandblast it, but using the starter to move it when the time comes is so simple it just might work.

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I removed and disassembled the steering box so I could clean/inspect it and change the old grease. I don't know what kind of grease it was, but it was the worst smelling grease I've ever seen. In fact, they should have called it skunk grease.

While I have it apart, I'm going to change all the seals and o-rings. The steering box wasn't leaking per se, but the dust seals behind the pitman arms were shot and there were small signs that grease was beginning to seep out around the sector gear shaft seals. Also, the gear shift boots (looked fine) were beginning to leak around the shafts, and the steering box base gasket showed signs that it was beginning to allow water to enter the transmission case, so they will be replaced as well.

All the steering box gears, bearings, and bushings looked and felt fine, so I'm confident that I'll be able to adjust out all the steering shaft play it had before. Getting it just right will require the removal of a few steering column shims to set the correct steering shaft bearing pre-load, and careful adjustment of the sector gear tension screws to set the proper pre-load on the gears. All adjustments will be made per the shop manual.

Overall, it's a messy, smelly, and time consuming process, but well worth the effort. It's going to take me a week to get the smell of that old grease off my hands.

 

[MasseyWV]

Well, I spoke too soon.

I thought I was finished disassembling the steering box, but overlooked one seemingly minor detail. When I removed the steering column assembly, I didn't check to see if the steering shaft would come out. According to the shop manual, the steering shaft should simply slide out of the steering column, but as luck would have it, the darned thing was stuck because the upper bearing races had rusted to the steering shaft and side walls of the steering column.

I placed the steering wheel on the steering shaft and inverted the whole assembly so I could use a hammer and a short piece of 2x4 to tap the steering shaft free of the steering column. Things went well and the steering shaft came free without too much difficulty, but when I tried to remove the steering wheel again it wouldn't budge. I tried everything, heat, puller, penetrating oil, but nothing worked. Finally, I had to resort to using my air grinder to carefully cut a slot in the steering wheel hub, then use a chisel to crack the hub, before using my puller to break it loose from the steering shaft.

Thankfully, I managed to get everything apart without damaging anything except the steering wheel, but that's going to be replaced anyway.

 

[MasseyWV]

Should I bother to keep updating this thread? It doesn't seem like anyone is interested, or is it something else?

 

[dex3361]

Should I bother to keep updating this thread? It doesn't seem like anyone is interested, or is it something else?

I am following keep updating. I have a fondness for those old Masseys. By all means keep updating and especially with pics.

 

[MasseyWV]

I am following keep updating. I have a fondness for those old Masseys. By all means keep updating and especially with pics.

That's good to know because it makes the process of preparing to restore my old Massey 135 more enjoyable if I know that at least someone is following my progress.

The funny thing is that I've never worked on a tractor before, so I'm learning as I go along. Much of what I'm doing may seem unnecessary or even haphazard, and in a way it is, but there is a method to my madness. Like they say, the Devil is in the details, and if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right. That said, I nearly called this thread a "restoration thread" but prefer to think of it as a "preparing to restore" thread because I'm really only laying the groundwork for the full restoration which is to follow. If there is enough interest, perhaps I'll eventually create a restoration thread and post about the process, step by step, with lots of pictures.

As I progress, I've been taking a copious amount of pictures, and try to share a few here and there, but wasn't sure how much interest there really was, so I've slacked off on sharing them lately.

 

[frankroberts]

I'm following. I fixed up my old MF 50 about 5-6 years ago. It's now been sold to make room for my MF 230. My 50 project was mostly cosmetic. I'm not so brave as you to tear into the mechanical.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...nt.php?attachmentid=264622&stc=1&d=1336682357

 

[flusher]

That's good to know because it makes the process of preparing to restore my old Massey 135 more enjoyable if I know that at least someone is following my progress.

The funny thing is that I've never worked on a tractor before, so I'm learning as I go along. Much of what I'm doing may seem unnecessary or even haphazard, and in a way it is, but there is a method to my madness. Like they say, the Devil is in the details, and if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right. That said, I nearly called this thread a "restoration thread" but prefer to think of it as a "preparing to restore" thread because I'm really only laying the groundwork for the full restoration which is to follow. If there is enough interest, perhaps I'll eventually create a restoration thread and post about the process, step by step, with lots of pictures.

As I progress, I've been taking a copious amount of pictures, and try to share a few here and there, but wasn't sure how much interest there really was, so I've slacked off on sharing them lately.

There's lotsa interest in a project like yours. I documented the partial restoration of my 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe on TBN about 5 years ago. Had fun doing the documentation. Hope it inspired others to tackle similar projects.

Keep doing what you're doing:thumbsup:

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I removed the draft control spring assembly so I can sandblast and paint the exposed parts, then replace the dust boot seal (E). I thought the nut (D) might have given me trouble, but removing the assembly was relatively easy. However, after driving the retaining pin out of the clevis (F), I can't seem to figure out how to screw the clevis (F) off the plunger (B) shaft (A).

Suggestions anyone?

 

[Dieseltech]

Shaft most likely has rusty threads in yoke assy, when new will turn with a screwdriver in pin slot. I have in past welded a nut to shaft end inside cup. Use a socket, heat up thread area and hopefully unscrew shaft from yoke. When apart clean all threads so it turns freely with a screwdriver, when happy with parts fit remove welded nut by grinding it off shaft end. Then replace boot, adjust spring tension until will just turn with hand pressure, install pin and end plug. This has worked well several times in years past, otherwise new parts are needed.