My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[Jerry/MT]

According to the shop manual (looking at it now) for the Continental Z-145 engine, the compression ratio is 7.1 to 1 (not 6.5 to 1), and the compression for all cylinders should be between 145-160 PSI for a warm engine cranked at 150 RPM. However, the shop manual didn't specify if the compression values were wet or dry, so I'm assuming it means dry.

Now that I think about it, oil combined with carbon, was likely the main cause for the higher than expected compression readings, and would also explain why there wasn't much difference between the wet and dry compression readings. The higher than expected compression readings could also mean that the lower half of the engine is in great shape, despite the problems with the upper half of the engine, mentioned previously.

In any case, I plan to perform another compression test after I've reassembled the cylinder head, and get the engine running again. I could be wrong, but I believe I'll see a greater difference between the dry and wet readings, but judging by the condition of the pistons and cylinder walls, I don't expect to see much change from the previous compression readings.

The specs are given dry and also assume the test is conducted at an ambient pressure of 14.7 psia or 29.92 in Hg. The compresion presure level of pressure needs to be adjusted for ambient pressures due to altitude or the local pressure where the test is conducted. The test should be conduced on an engine at operating temperture with the throttle plate wide open and the air cleaner disconnected.

I didn't realize that the CR was 7.1. That alone will cause the higher compression pressures you recorded. Nonetheless, the compression numbers you have wet and dry don't indicate any major problem with rings and valve sealing. Your numbers seem within the nominal range wet and dry. The fact that the wet only increased by 5 psi is indicative of good ring and valve sealing. Worn rings would have seen a greater change in pressure from dry to wet.

 

[MasseyWV]

The specs are given dry and also assume the test is conducted at an ambient pressure of 14.7 psia or 29.92 in Hg. The compresion presure level of pressure needs to be adjusted for ambient pressures due to altitude or the local pressure where the test is conducted. The test should be conduced on an engine at operating temperture with the throttle plate wide open and the air cleaner disconnected.

I didn't realize that the CR was 7.1. That alone will cause the higher compression pressures you recorded. Nonetheless, the compression numbers you have wet and dry don't indicate any major problem with rings and valve sealing. Your numbers seem within the nominal range wet and dry. The fact that the wet only increased by 5 psi is indicative of good ring and valve sealing. Worn rings would have seen a greater change in pressure from dry to wet.

Compensating for ambient pressure would give a more accurate compression test reading, but I've never botherd doing so because I'm primarily looking for consistency among all the cylinders when performing a compression test. A leakdown test would also provide more accurate compression readings, but a simple compression test has always seemed to serve me well.

I was thinking that the compression ratio was around 6:1, but wasn't sure until I looked at the shop manual. I also tend to believe that the small difference between the wet and dry compression readings is indicative of good rings, although I was expecting to have seen a bit more difference, all things considered.

Granted, compression readings won't tell me much about the condition of the oil rings, which could have contributed to the smoking problem, but I won't know for sure if they are working properly until I complete the cylinder head rebuild.

I'm actually surprised that the compression readings were all good because the valve seats had a fair amount of carbon buildup on them.

 

[MasseyWV]

I've managed to make considerable progress while fixing the mangled corner of the rear fender. It's not finished yet, and still needs a bit of tack welding and some bondo to smooth things out, but it looks much better.

Before:

After:

 

[MasseyWV]

Today, I finished removing the wiring, throttle linkage, and the rest of the sheet metal so I can sandblast and paint it.

However, before I can remove the instrument cluster, I must remove the steering wheel, which is proving to be more difficult than I had anticipated. I managed to get the nut and washer off, but as expected, the steering wheel is stuck, and none of my pullers will fit because of the thickness of the steering wheel "rubber" around the hub.

Suggestions anyone?

 

[flusher]

Today, I finished removing the wiring, throttle linkage, and the rest of the sheet metal so I can sandblast and paint it.

However, before I can remove the instrument cluster, I must remove the steering wheel, which is proving to be more difficult than I had anticipated. I managed to get the nut and washer off, but as expected, the steering wheel is stuck, and none of my pullers will fit because of the thickness of the steering wheel "rubber" around the hub.

Suggestions anyone?

Get out your air chisel, cut off the blade from one of the chisels so you have a blunt ended rod, grab the steering wheel hub and pull toward your chest while applying the air chisel to the end of the steering shaft. I remove stuck engine pulleys using this method.

 

[MasseyWV]

Get out your air chisel, cut off the blade from one of the chisels so you have a blunt ended rod, grab the steering wheel hub and pull toward your chest while applying the air chisel to the end of the steering shaft. I remove stuck engine pulleys using this method.

I tried the method you suggested, only I used the air hammer bit I had previously made to drive out the valve guides, but it didn't work so I had to get medieval on it.

I finally got the steering wheel off by using a hammer and a screwdriver to break away the rubber from around the metal hub so I could use my 3 jaw puller. Even then it was stubborn, so I had to apply a considerable amount of torque to it until I heard a "pop" as the steering wheel came loose.

Since I'm gradually restoring the tractor, the steering wheel is eventually going to be replaced with a new one, so chipping away the rubber around the center, while a radical move, isn't a problem.

 

[flattopp9]

I used to have a 185. Look like a nice utility. Kinda know how excited you can get. I just got a really nice power trac 1430 and have nothing but good to say so far and hope to post some pictures soon. Appreciated your photos. Have safe seat time. Dale:licking:

 

[MasseyWV]

I used to have a 185. Look like a nice utility. Kinda know how excited you can get. I just got a really nice power trac 1430 and have nothing but good to say so far and hope to post some pictures soon. Appreciated your photos. Have safe seat time. Dale:licking:

It's a nice old tractor, but it needs a little TLC so I'm trying to get the old girl back into shape, a little at a time. Although it is exciting, my biggest problem hasn't been excitement, it's been trying to stop myself from going farther than my time and budget will allow.

After I got the steering wheel off and was finally able to remove the instrument panel, the tractor looks just about as stripped down as it can get, which is a good thing since I'm planning to sandblast and paint the chassis. However, I'm seriously considering going just a little farther.

Since I've already got the tractor torn down this far, I'm wondering if I might as well go ahead and pull the front end assembly, then pull the oil pan to clean it and the oil pickup tube, then give the bottom end of the engine a quick inspection. Doing so would also make it easy for me to sandblast and paint the individual front end components, but I remain uncertain what to do.

In for a penny, in for a pound? Or should I wait?

 

[bucktaker]

what is the cost for s sleeve n psiton kit? bearings? your almost there

 

[MasseyWV]

what is the cost for s sleeve n psiton kit? bearings? your almost there

I know exactly what you mean.

It's so tempting to go for it, but I've gotta watch the budget so I can complete other projects too. Soon, I'll have the parts I need to finish rebuilding the cylinder head, and when that's complete I'll begin performing a few larger tasks and think I have a plan that just might let me have my cake and eat it too. For now anyway.

Since I'm planning to sandblast, then paint the chassis of my tractor, I'm thinking about rigging some temporary wiring so I can easily move it outside of my garage for sandblasting, then back into my garage for painting.

What I would do is strap the battery to the top of the chassis in front of the steering box using bungi cords, then temporarily connect the key switch to the starter and coil via the start safety switch as it was before. I would have to find a way to temporarily mount the key switch and the tractor would be running off the battery so I would have to keep it charged, but it would permit easy removal/installation of the wiring so the tractor could be moved and worked on, as needed. If I wanted, I could even use it for minor tasks, as needed.

It wouldn't be pretty, but I believe it just might work, while being completely safe to operate. Does anyone see a problem with my plan?