jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Here is a good 65" boxblade by Woods/Gannon don't think you have to worry much about tearing it up either.
HD24265LB Landscape Equipment
HD24265LB Landscape Equipment
BoonDoc said:Thanks, guys. Steve, that BB is only 65" but weighs just under a half ton! I can imagine how thick the steel on that is. My tractor is 3000lbs with 600lbs extra for the loaded rears. Do you think there's a possibility my wheels will just be spinning if the ground is wet and I'm pulling something that heavy along with a load of dirt?
rj, that's the BB in the video on their website. The 5.5ft is much lighter. Is there room for a large rock on top of it?
Is 65" wider than the tractor?
Thanks, guys. Steve, that BB is only 65" but weighs just under a half ton! I can imagine how thick the steel on that is. My tractor is 3000lbs with 600lbs extra for the loaded rears. Do you think there's a possibility my wheels will just be spinning if the ground is wet and I'm pulling something that heavy along with a load of dirt?
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The link I put up is for the low back model if look at all of them there is an Lb and hb, low back and high back. I choose the low back model which will carry less dirt because your tractor is a little light. When operating a boxblade I find the weight doesn't have as much effect on traction, that is determined more by how deep you are attempting to cut. Not to say that dropping a boxblade with the rippers down all the way won't stop your tractor, depends on the soil. Where the weight makes a big difference is when you are trying to grade smooth, the small rocks and gravel are pressed down by the heavy blade allowing more uniformity to the surface. With a light blade the gravel can easily allow it to ride up or bounce more readily. Also consider the fact that anytime the box is raised up just a fraction that all of its weight is transferred to the rear wheels for more traction. This boxblade I should mention would require one remote for the scarifiers to work. If you only have two and use topntilt at the same time you would need to unplug the tilt cylinder and use the scarifiers to rip everything up then plug back in the tilt cylinder to do the rest of the finish grading. That is why I suggested getting all the remotes you can.
About the width, I was following your lead on sizing but make sure you can cover your tire tracks, you may have to go wider or adjust the rear wheel width in a tad.
Need to know more specifics on your tractor setup before choosing.
I pull a 900 lb Gannon, 6' BB. It cuts and levels real nice. I'd also suggest a rake, if your road is stone. Make for easy grooming and crowning without digging too much. If you have ditches to maintain, you'll want a 6 way scraper blade that can be offset. The ones the slide L/R give you the greatest reach to get in ditches while your tractor stays on the road. I wouldn't buy new for any of these. Look on Craigslist. These implements are always for sale. I got my BB for $150 and put another $150 in a new cutting edge for it. Now I've got a BB that would have cost well over $1200 new. I picked up a nice 6' rake with gauge wheels for $250. I did buy my scraper blade new, and spent way too much for it, like $800. Dime a dozen on CL for $100 to $300. You also want a hydraulic top link. Get one now. It's worth every penny.