Snow Attachments Snow Plow Float, Chain, or Rigid

[john4153]

Thanks for the tip. My loader does have re-gen (Case LX11x).

What happens if you leave the FEL normal (not in float), have the A-frame welded to the Q/A plate, and make the blade very short coupled to the plate? Getting the angle cylinders fixed behind the plate and so forth would sure be easier with a rigid A-frame-to-plate mount. Will the trip give adequate protection? My drive is gravel, and I don't scrape it all the way to the surface.

John

Edit: I decided to attach a rough side-view sketch showing the minimum coupling to the Q/A plate (about 17"). That distance will allow at least ｱ30ｰ of angle and not interfere with the loader (17" should allow clearance on a width of 48"). Would you increase it? If so, how much? If I keep the power angle, the cylinders will need to be repositioned. I am considering a 5/16 plate. Would you recommend going up to 3/8" thick?

View attachment snow plow.pdf

 

[chopped]

If i understand , I can say it seems to be good Im all gravel here and the trip edge has caught rocks and tripped without any trouble.I am still experimenting with how to have it havent tried float yet I dont think that would work well with the chain upper link.as the loader arms would float to the ground. so i keep it low and then curle out to give chain slack.I had a pipe ont he cutting edge before and now I took that off so i can cut as deep as I like to. the angle seems to make a difference int he cut. So I like the cain part as it allows it to be adjustable and then havign the ability to push snow over bankings etc is great. I had one year wehn I had the plow mounted in the bucket. that was great for reach etc but was so far out it needed a huge counterweight. So having the QA has greatly improved that.
Oh just re read your question do you mean the plow would be ridgid mount to the plate?I would guess that youd want to use float if that was the case.Bu ive found the 'slop' in the pins etc to be a good thing.it allows the plow to adjust to grades better.

 

[john4153]

Hi chopped,

See my edit, Post #21, which occurred during your post.

I have been calling around. A local place I learned about here (Extreme Metal Products, Extreme Metal Products, LLC ) has a rigid mount to the Q/A plates and does not recommend using float on the FEL.

My driveway is gravel and about 1800 ft or so. I am beginning to think a rigid mount to the Q/A or a pivoted mount that can be made rigid with a top link may be the way to go. The pivot + top link would allow the Q/A plate to be used for other things plus allow it to be partially disassembled in the Summer and moved about more easily. I am getting weaker every year.

What are your and others' thoughts on power angle vs. manual for just personal driveway work?

John

 

[vtsnowedin]

What are your and others' thoughts on power angle vs. manual for just personal driveway work?

John

On a light weight plow that is easily swung back and forth when it is lifted off the ground it is just a matter of how many times you want to get on and off the tractor. Do all your angle work to the right then set it square for those push-backs at the intersections then back to left or right as needed.
With a nine foot plow and a cab with Velcro door zippers I think I'll keep the power angle working and be lazy. There is something about watching blowing snow spin by in a mini tornado that gives me a case of wontgetoutadacab itis.

 

[71bronco]

I'm working on this myself adapting an eight foot Fisher plow to fit my JD 533 loader. My present plan is to weld the Fisher push beam with it's latch pins to my adapter plate level with the attachment pins on the other side of the plate. Then I can set the loader close to the height of the push plates of the F250 it came off of and it should work right. This will allow the plow to trip up when it hits a fixed object and keep the ends of the loader arms a safe distance above the road. I'm going to try just the chain at first but if that doesn't cut clean I might try a top link from plate to plow to force the plow forward from where the trip springs have it ride.
Trial and error. Others who have finished their own project please chime in and save us a few trials.

I built mine last year and it has worked out great. I bought a Meyers 6.5' plow that someone had attached to a QA plate but found it stuck out too far. So I made up new attachment points underneath and behind the plate. This way it is closer to the tractor,still will float with the chain, but still keeps the original frame intact so you can angle it with the cylinders(which I will get one of these days). I can also put downpressure by dropping and dumping the loader so the plate pushes down on the frame of the plow. Here are some pics before it got painted.

Jeff

 

[john4153]

71bronco,

That is indeed an interesting approach. I need to get some more measurements of my loader tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing.

John

 

[amigauser]

Thanks for the tip. My loader does have re-gen (Case LX11x).

What happens if you leave the FEL normal (not in float), have the A-frame welded to the Q/A plate, and make the blade very short coupled to the plate? Getting the angle cylinders fixed behind the plate and so forth would sure be easier with a rigid A-frame-to-plate mount. Will the trip give adequate protection? My drive is gravel, and I don't scrape it all the way to the surface.

John

Edit: I decided to attach a rough side-view sketch showing the minimum coupling to the Q/A plate (about 17"). That distance will allow at least ｱ30ｰ of angle and not interfere with the loader (17" should allow clearance on a width of 48"). Would you increase it? If so, how much? If I keep the power angle, the cylinders will need to be repositioned. I am considering a 5/16 plate. Would you recommend going up to 3/8" thick?

View attachment 296763

That is bascically my setup. I can still rotate the plow side to side but it is manual with a pin. I do not have front hydraulics. If you have front 3rd function hydraulics using a cyclinder to rotate left right would be nice.

 

[john4153]

I don't have front remote on my tractor, but the electric hydraulics came with the plow.

John

 

[vtsnowedin]

I built mine last year......
........ Here are some pics before it got painted.

Jeff

View attachment 296769View attachment 296770View attachment 296771View attachment 296772

Thanks for the pics. I had to look at them a couple of times each to see what you had done. I see the Meyers plow has a pivot point where the turn circle meets the back of the plow blade. My Fisher does not. If I see it right your plow can drop down until the lift chain comes tight and can pivot up only until the A frame hits the underside of the arms you used to move the attachment point to the rear. How dose it work? Do you get enough up and down travel for it to follow the ground or do you need to keep adjusting as you go?

 

[Katahdin]

Full-trip plows will have that A-Frame pivot point on the blade. The Fisher plow is likely a Trip-edge design, the hinge is on the bottom of the blade.