Reyer Farms
Platinum Member
Thanks ken & nspec. Nspec that's a nice shiney moldboard on that plow!!!
3 PT MoldBoard Plows, New or Used?
- Thread starter wolftree
- Start date
MHarryE
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Do they make a small plow? We have a 5 and a 6 bottom semi-mounted and they are fantastic. I had even thought of cutting apart the one that doesn't get used much (bought used as a spare) but it hurts to much to cut on it.
nspec
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They make from a 2 bottom on up.
RedNeckRacin
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I'm kind of curious about that Hp per inch of moldboard theory? I have never done any plowing other than snow. My FIL used to use a 9600 ford which I believe was around 110hp at the drawbar (************.com) and it was working pretty good pulling a 4-16 plow. Granted he was plowing at 5 or 6 mph IIRC in ground that had not been turned in 20+ years.
I realize that soil conditions dictate things more than anything. Is that 1hp/inch conservative or the bare minimum? Really curious since I was offered a 3 bottom rollover for a pretty decent price. I don't know why I like watching tractors plowing, I guess its because its the most basic/neccessary use of a farm tractor? I always get a kick out of those guys speed plowing with 5 or 6 bottom plows on youtube.
I realize that soil conditions dictate things more than anything. Is that 1hp/inch conservative or the bare minimum? Really curious since I was offered a 3 bottom rollover for a pretty decent price. I don't know why I like watching tractors plowing, I guess its because its the most basic/neccessary use of a farm tractor? I always get a kick out of those guys speed plowing with 5 or 6 bottom plows on youtube.
sweettractors
Advertiser
Never could use any HP per inch of moldboard theory around here. When plowing, there are too many variables involved to have a chart to go by. Such as Type of soil, desired depth of plowing needed, design of the plow moldboard and brand of plow. I like those speed plowing videos on youtube also. Ken Sweet
OP
wolftree
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RedNeckRacin,
The one horse power per inch is a rough guide to start with. Soil, incline and eveything else figures in as well. Those with sandy soil could always gear-up and throttle back if pulling easy. Or you can drop a gear for hard pulling in clay. If you are only plowing a garden, it will not mean much. But, 50 acres of throttle full up in low gear, something needs to change.
Check with neighbors and find out what horse power/ inch they are using for starters. A properly adjusted tractor / plow will make all the difference as well.
The one horse power per inch is a rough guide to start with. Soil, incline and eveything else figures in as well. Those with sandy soil could always gear-up and throttle back if pulling easy. Or you can drop a gear for hard pulling in clay. If you are only plowing a garden, it will not mean much. But, 50 acres of throttle full up in low gear, something needs to change.
Check with neighbors and find out what horse power/ inch they are using for starters. A properly adjusted tractor / plow will make all the difference as well.
RedNeckRacin
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wolf,
I have heard of people trying to force the plow to go where they want it to follow the tractor and chaos insues. From what I have also gathered, most farmers have been using the same plow for years and know almost exactly how the hitch, wheels, and plow needs to be set-up to get it to pull the best. I wasn't really trying to buy a set of plows, just was broadening my knowledge of them a little bit. The four bottoms i referenced earlier were a pretty hefy load to be yanking around when the clay is so close to the surface here. I would imagine that the hp/inch was a fairly liberal swag for decently loose soils? I have also heard the 20hp/bottom used a few times but never was sure if it was crank hp or drawbar/pto.
I have heard of people trying to force the plow to go where they want it to follow the tractor and chaos insues. From what I have also gathered, most farmers have been using the same plow for years and know almost exactly how the hitch, wheels, and plow needs to be set-up to get it to pull the best. I wasn't really trying to buy a set of plows, just was broadening my knowledge of them a little bit. The four bottoms i referenced earlier were a pretty hefy load to be yanking around when the clay is so close to the surface here. I would imagine that the hp/inch was a fairly liberal swag for decently loose soils? I have also heard the 20hp/bottom used a few times but never was sure if it was crank hp or drawbar/pto.
allen in texas
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I guess I need to clarify more on the 1 HP per inch...
It is an "OLD time" rule of thumb. It is also only a rough guide for a place to start. And the speed plowing, it takes more horsepower. In my soil, I try to plow at 4 to 4.5 mph. I did that with a 14 inch two bottom Ford running 7 to 8 inches deep and occasionally a bit deeper. The plow was designed for the Ford Jubilee tractors that were rated at 20.5 drawbar horsepower and 30 PTO HP. They were also a two wheel drive tractor. The tractor itself was rated for a 2x16 or a 3x14 plow. They probably didn't pull as fast as I do.
I pulled the plow with a 4wd drive 25 PTO hp tractor.
I now pull a 3 bottom 14 inch plow at the same speeds with a 50 HP tractor. Double the power but not double the plow. I don't have enough tractor to pull 4 bottoms even though I have double the power now than I had pulling 2 bottoms. I stated that there are lots of variables not the least of which is the soil you are going to plow in.
I plowed a garden spot (a large garden spot) last weekend. I was worried that I might not be able to pull the plow in the soil as it was a bit dry and had had cattle on it for several years and was packed. I had no problems. My plow has all new wear parts and pulls easy to me.
Finally, I thought about a JD switch plow or one of the other brands when I was trying to buy my first plow but when I saw that they recommended 50 HP per bottom, I took a different route and bought my Ford.
And speaking of my Ford, I still have it just in case I get into a situation where I can't pull my 3 bottom oliver properly. Them variables I mentioned ya know.
I've put this up before but I'll show it again, a video of my plow behind my L5740. You can sort of see what type of soil I have around here. It's called sandy loam.
I was clicking off about 4.2 MPH in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdEStYYl1Ts
It is an "OLD time" rule of thumb. It is also only a rough guide for a place to start. And the speed plowing, it takes more horsepower. In my soil, I try to plow at 4 to 4.5 mph. I did that with a 14 inch two bottom Ford running 7 to 8 inches deep and occasionally a bit deeper. The plow was designed for the Ford Jubilee tractors that were rated at 20.5 drawbar horsepower and 30 PTO HP. They were also a two wheel drive tractor. The tractor itself was rated for a 2x16 or a 3x14 plow. They probably didn't pull as fast as I do.
I pulled the plow with a 4wd drive 25 PTO hp tractor.
I now pull a 3 bottom 14 inch plow at the same speeds with a 50 HP tractor. Double the power but not double the plow. I don't have enough tractor to pull 4 bottoms even though I have double the power now than I had pulling 2 bottoms. I stated that there are lots of variables not the least of which is the soil you are going to plow in.
I plowed a garden spot (a large garden spot) last weekend. I was worried that I might not be able to pull the plow in the soil as it was a bit dry and had had cattle on it for several years and was packed. I had no problems. My plow has all new wear parts and pulls easy to me.
Finally, I thought about a JD switch plow or one of the other brands when I was trying to buy my first plow but when I saw that they recommended 50 HP per bottom, I took a different route and bought my Ford.
And speaking of my Ford, I still have it just in case I get into a situation where I can't pull my 3 bottom oliver properly. Them variables I mentioned ya know.
I've put this up before but I'll show it again, a video of my plow behind my L5740. You can sort of see what type of soil I have around here. It's called sandy loam.
I was clicking off about 4.2 MPH in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdEStYYl1Ts
allen in texas
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RedNeckRacin
I made the last post for you with the link to the video. forgot to quote you. I don't know your tractor but the video was to show you my 3 bottom rollover. It took a lot of work to get the plow to fit my tractor because I wouldn't (didn't want to) change the tire spacing to fit the plow. I guess I did it backwards.
sweettractors
Advertiser
A lot depends on the brand of plow. I pulled a 3 - 14" bottom xxxxx plow for about 10 years and my tractor stayed in a strain about all the time. I added wheel weights, front suitcase weights, maximum tire ballast on the tractor and trash boards and moldboard extensions on the plow. Plowed with coulters installed and without. Made no difference.
Then one day, I bought a XXXX brand 4-16" bottom plow to resell. It was in the spring and I had about 40 acres to turn, so I decided to see if I could even budge the 4-16" behind the same tractor that I had used on the 3-14" for 10 years. I not only pulled it, I ran with it. The tractor seemed to not even know it was back there. The fields looked excellent. I learned a lesson that spring that there is definitely a difference in how each brand of plow pulls. Ken Sweet
Then one day, I bought a XXXX brand 4-16" bottom plow to resell. It was in the spring and I had about 40 acres to turn, so I decided to see if I could even budge the 4-16" behind the same tractor that I had used on the 3-14" for 10 years. I not only pulled it, I ran with it. The tractor seemed to not even know it was back there. The fields looked excellent. I learned a lesson that spring that there is definitely a difference in how each brand of plow pulls. Ken Sweet