OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Yeah I wonderd about that too. So it means that anything under 2000 means it's NG(no good)?
DK40SE HST - neutral safety switch problem
- Thread starter MotorSeven
- Start date
k0ua
Epic Contributor
End to end it should be 2000 ohms. the center wiper/slider/moving arm of the pot should go from near zero to near 2000 when measured from an end to the center. Of course depending on which end you put the lead on will determine whether the resistance rises or falls as you move the wiper back and forth. Sort of a diagram below to illustrate what I am trying to say.
---^v^v---
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well that didn't work
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Lets try this drawing
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I think I understand........thanks!!!
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
The new one arrived, I pulled the seat pan(again, thank you Kioti for making that easy) and replaced the switch. They are sealed unit's and can't be taken apart and cleaned so I didn't even test the old one.
The new one was......{gasp}$123 and I see this as a silly redundant safety device. I mean, this is an HST, so unless you are dumb enough to leave the throttle up and step on one of the go pedals while trying to start it, then the tractor is not gonna move. Those people should have their tractor keys taken away from them, along with any other remotely sharp objects and handled by a large male nurse named "Clyde" for the rest of their years on this planet.
Before the new one arrived, the tractor had gotten to where it would only start in Medium range...kinda defeats the purpose of the switch eh???
So, if this fails again, I think Koua can tell me which wires to splice together to bypass the silly thing.......right James?
Old one:
The new one was......{gasp}$123 and I see this as a silly redundant safety device. I mean, this is an HST, so unless you are dumb enough to leave the throttle up and step on one of the go pedals while trying to start it, then the tractor is not gonna move. Those people should have their tractor keys taken away from them, along with any other remotely sharp objects and handled by a large male nurse named "Clyde" for the rest of their years on this planet.
Before the new one arrived, the tractor had gotten to where it would only start in Medium range...kinda defeats the purpose of the switch eh???
So, if this fails again, I think Koua can tell me which wires to splice together to bypass the silly thing.......right James?
Old one:
k0ua
Epic Contributor
The new one arrived, I pulled the seat pan(again, thank you Kioti for making that easy) and replaced the switch. They are sealed unit's and can't be taken apart and cleaned so I didn't even test the old one.
The new one was......{gasp}$123 and I see this as a silly redundant safety device. I mean, this is an HST, so unless you are dumb enough to leave the throttle up and step on one of the go pedals while trying to start it, then the tractor is not gonna move. Those people should have their tractor keys taken away from them, along with any other remotely sharp objects and handled by a large male nurse named "Clyde" for the rest of their years on this planet.
Before the new one arrived, the tractor had gotten to where it would only start in Medium range...kinda defeats the purpose of the switch eh???
So, if this fails again, I think Koua can tell me which wires to splice together to bypass the silly thing.......right James?
Old one:
Not as simple as splicing wires, the module measures a voltage drop in the Potentiometer. 5 volts on the one outside lead and ground on the other, then the center lead will have a variable voltage on it depending on the arc of the lever. As you move the lever thru the "gears" L-N-M-N-H the changing voltage is read by the cruise module to determine what gear/range to display in the instrument panel and sends along a signal to allow the starter relay to pull up. To bypass this expensive part you would have to build a resistor network of 2 resistors and tap them in the center for the center lead. This would give you the voltage drop you would need to send a signal that the tractor was in neutral. Of course the N lamp would always be lit no matter which range you were in. I would need to look up the voltage that equals one of the N positions, as read by the module, and do the math to calculate the values of the resistors you would need to put together in your "network".. Clear as mud?
k0ua
Epic Contributor
The new one arrived, I pulled the seat pan(again, thank you Kioti for making that easy) and replaced the switch. They are sealed unit's and can't be taken apart and cleaned so I didn't even test the old one.
The new one was......{gasp}$123 and I see this as a silly redundant safety device. I mean, this is an HST, so unless you are dumb enough to leave the throttle up and step on one of the go pedals while trying to start it, then the tractor is not gonna move. Those people should have their tractor keys taken away from them, along with any other remotely sharp objects and handled by a large male nurse named "Clyde" for the rest of their years on this planet.
Before the new one arrived, the tractor had gotten to where it would only start in Medium range...kinda defeats the purpose of the switch eh???
So, if this fails again, I think Koua can tell me which wires to splice together to bypass the silly thing.......right James?
Old one:
Not as simple as splicing wires, the module measures a voltage drop in the Potentiometer. 5 volts on the one outside lead and ground on the other, then the center lead will have a variable voltage on it depending on the arc of the lever. As you move the lever thru the "gears" L-N-M-N-H the changing voltage is read by the cruise module to determine what gear/range to display in the instrument panel and sends along a signal to allow the starter relay to pull up. To bypass this expensive part you would have to build a resistor network of 2 resistors and tap them in the center for the center lead. This would give you the voltage drop you would need to send a signal that the tractor was in neutral. Of course the N lamp would always be lit no matter which range you were in. I would need to look up the voltage that equals one of the N positions, as read by the module, and do the math to calculate the values of the resistors you would need to put together in your "network".. Clear as mud?
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Did you get a chance to measure the pot. with an analog ohm meter as you slowly move it thru its arc? It should be smooth with no disconnections from the center pin to each end. A smooth scrolling variable resistance.
rmorey
Platinum Member
I think paying $120 is way better than having to remember all that! :laughing:
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Elementary my dear Watson, Elementary!...
It would not be hard to build the bypass network, especially if you retained the plug on the old pot. You could easily cover it in the liquid rubber for waterproofing.