D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity

   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #31  
thanks - so please correct me if I have something wrong here and so that I am sure I understand - if I pull the exhaust valve push rods then do the compression test this will allow me to bypass the compression release mechanism - being the the compression release system is actually holding open the exhaust valve a bit to allow for less pressure in the cylinder for easier start up ? that is really smart thanks, great idea... It was my first compression test so was not very good... you know first times - always to fast and not satisfactory ...:newhere:

I think I will replace the bent pushrod and hook things up - but I am not sure about the stuck intake valve - hoping someone will let me know what to do there, as I do not want to take it to the JD dealership (very pricey here)

Once the valve has stuck once, it will do it again even if you free it up. New cylinder head from briggs, with head gasket and pushrods is $100. I doubt there is anything wrong with the rotating assembly ( pistons, rods, crank etc.. ) The head is unfortunately not worth rebuilding. On the side that just had the pushrod displaced, I would just put it back in place and cross your fingers.

Once you've got it all back together, you need to run mid grade or high test fuel at all times. They run much cooler and you will never hear anymore spark knock when you lug the motor.
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #32  
thanks - so please correct me if I have something wrong here and so that I am sure I understand - if I pull the exhaust valve push rods then do the compression test this will allow me to bypass the compression release mechanism - being the the compression release system is actually holding open the exhaust valve a bit to allow for less pressure in the cylinder for easier start up ? that is really smart thanks, great idea... It was my first compression test so was not very good... you know first times - always to fast and not satisfactory ...:newhere:

I think I will replace the bent pushrod and hook things up - but I am not sure about the stuck intake valve - hoping someone will let me know what to do there, as I do not want to take it to the JD dealership (very pricey here)
If you have a bent or broken pushrod it is very likely the valve guide has moved and is interfering with the valve opening. A new pushrod will suffer the same.

If an exhaust pushrod is bent check the exhaust valve guide.
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #33  
Zaqattack. Now that the damaged parts have been identified what about the cause of the problem in the first place.
You mentioned a recent oil change and things were fine except for a backfire.
Are you sure the correct amount of oil was put back in? Any oil leaks? How dirty was the old oil? Possible plugged oil line. Would not want a repeat of the problem.
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #34  
^^ Agree! ^^ Something caused those intake valves to freeze. You gotta find out what and remedy it, or you will just bend any new pushrods. I would sure pull the heads off and check everything. You've gone this far; why not?

You are correct (and I was wrong about the low compression); your engine does evidently have a compression release mechanism to hold the exhaust valves open just slightly at cranking speeds, so if you leave the exhaust pushrods out and redo your compression test you should get a "true" reading. Of course if your INTAKE valves are still stuck open, you'll still have low compression.

- Jay
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Re: D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already

Thanks for the replies..

So taking everything into consideration -

Cause I would think is poor gas as well as poor storage habits - prior to winter storage I did not run it out of gas, and I did not use stabilizer - I did receive a backfire or two on use before the no start - and the big backfire on the attempted start after sitting a week - so it was operating with probably varnish accumulation causing the sticking intake values gave the backfires and then sitting that last week (weather cooled off as well) one or two of the intake valves must have stuck open and starting it gave the big backfire and bent the intake pushrod...

tomorrow will do a detailed inspection and see how things look - I will look at that bent pushrod valve and see if the valve guide has moved. (spyderlk).. also may try removing the intake pipe from the carb and attempt to clean the valve with solvent, as well as wd40 the valve stem from above and see if the solvents can get this valve moving again... I understand that it is most likely I will need a new head gasket (tcartwri) and need to run better fuel
 
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   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
  • Thread Starter
#36  
could not get any new parts on Saturday - everything two days to get here...and I only have weekends to work on this... so I pulled the heads, everything looked good - valve guides had not shifted out of place - but one intake value on cylinder #1 (where the pushrod bent) was not moving at all, stuck closed... so soaked the heads in diesel overnight...still this one intake value would not budge - took a hammer to the intake value, then had to create a small punch out of an allen key and kept punching away at it - finally came out - still valve was straight just varnish on it had kept it from budging , everythingcleaned well and started to move well after cleaning however that abused Intake valve would just not go back in - used the other intake valve and it showed the valve guide was still good - I was going to wait to order a new valve but I ended up using some fine grit wet sandpaper and worked it on this valve - and it was all I needed and it was good to go - reused everything including the head gaskets and put it all back together - right now I am bagged but I am back on line to review the valve adjustments so I know I have put it back correctly - then I guess I will try to start her up.. :horseshoe:
 
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   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #37  
Re: D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already

Well if things are bent can't be good for heads if only 100 $ like other person said I'd do that if can let loose funds at this time if things got that hot I'd check cylinder gasket surface isn't warped with straight edge good luck
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
  • Thread Starter
#38  
she is running - first time in 3 weeks - sounds good - started her a few times and ran her through the throttle settings - all good very strong - there was a backfire on one start, and there is a lot of smoke from the exhaust at low rpm, nothing at high rpm - but that could be surface burn off of things that happened during the ordeal ( gas, oil spills) a little late for the neighbours here for me to be running it - ( I work out of a carport ) - will have to check it all over again tomorrow afterwork ...
 
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   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity #39  
Good I'm glad you got it going makes you feel good when things work out
 
   / D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
  • Thread Starter
#40  
yes it feels great - lawn is out of control and needs a cut - the repair at John Deere was quoted to put in two new heads, and the price with taxes and shop supplies was $575 USD - I bought a new pushrod and then lots and lots of time learning, cleaning... I did end up with new maintenance items, oil, filters, plugs and also some new parts, compression gauge, feeler gauge.. but those are useful for the future - so all in all as I was able to reuse all the parts and clean everything up, it was just $10 for the new intake pushrod... now I know how to take care of this and how to do a head, and adjust valves - in trying to get my old pushmower going I learned how to clean the carb - so probably that will be next on this machine.

So lessons are -
- run good gas and use stabilizer
- as part of regular maintenance check valves and adjust
- for winter storage either run it out of gas or use stabilizer (probably best just to use stabilizer all the time)
- for winter storage maybe drain the carburetor (real easy on this unit with the solenoid switch removal acting as a drain plug)
- use fresh gas - never let gas sit (drain and reuse in the ole truck, or save it for cleaning parts)
- turn it over more than once a week just to be safe (keep things flowing and avoiding any jammed intake valves)

any more ideas or thoughts on this ?

Thanks again everyone.
 
 
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