D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity

[SPYDERLK]

yes it feels great - lawn is out of control and needs a cut - the repair at John Deere was quoted to put in two new heads, and the price with taxes and shop supplies was $575 USD - I bought a new pushrod and then lots and lots of time learning, cleaning... I did end up with new maintenance items, oil, filters, plugs and also some new parts, compression gauge, feeler gauge.. but those are useful for the future - so all in all as I was able to reuse all the parts and clean everything up, it was just $10 for the new intake pushrod... now I know how to take care of this and how to do a head, and adjust valves - in trying to get my old pushmower going I learned how to clean the carb - so probably that will be next on this machine.

So lessons are -
- run good gas and use stabilizer
- as part of regular maintenance check valves and adjust
- for winter storage either run it out of gas or use stabilizer (probably best just to use stabilizer all the time)
- for winter storage maybe drain the carburetor (real easy on this unit with the solenoid switch removal acting as a drain plug)
- use fresh gas - never let gas sit (drain and reuse in the ole truck, or save it for cleaning parts)
- turn it over more than once a week just to be safe (keep things flowing and avoiding any jammed intake valves)

any more ideas or thoughts on this ?

Thanks again everyone.

Yes.

Varnish to stick a valve in 60hrs, intake no less, is hugely weird. ... Like gasoline was flooding the valve guide during storage.

...I would put some 2 stroke oil in the gas and run it under load a while before storage.

 

[JRobyn]

Yes!! During periods of no or low usage, keep the fuel tank either as FULL as possible or EMPTY. It is the air space in the tank, in contact with fuel that can cause condensation/water problems.

Very glad to hear you got 'er going for low $!! Very good job!

- Jay

 

[JRobyn]

I am also mystified about varnish (or something) getting so bad as to totally freeze a valve on an otherwise normally running engine. Is there any chance that someone (neighborhood hoodlums?) might have vandalized the mower with some sugar or other substance in the fuel tank?

- Jay

 

[tcartwri]

I am also mystified about varnish (or something) getting so bad as to totally freeze a valve on an otherwise normally running engine. Is there any chance that someone (neighborhood hoodlums?) might have vandalized the mower with some sugar or other substance in the fuel tank?

- Jay

See the Gasohol Thread. Mine was after 25 hours of use.

 

[okddavissr5754]

Sugar would leave crystals in float bowl

 

[okddavissr5754]

If u have bled air out of all lines (prime system) according to manual then crack fitting at injector farthest from injection pump going into head crank engine when fuel comes out without sputtering tighten fitting while still cranking so won't suck air if battery is cranking fast enough should start if timing on injection pump and engine are timed correctly if all above is correct and all fitting are tight so can't loose prime if no smoke coming out exhaust injectors aren't opening need to rebuild if don't have equipment to service can get rebuilt, if smoke is coming out maybe bad fuel (water in fuel usually) smoke out exhaust means no clog timing or fuel or compression rings or valves not closing that's whole thing easiest to hardest don't think I missed anything pump pressure maybe sorry no punctuation's read slow never took time to learn that good luck

 

[okddavissr5754]

Sorry have diesel stuck on brain still if plugs getting wet firing order right plenty of spark spinning fast distributor maybe 180 degrees out rest be same sorry on diesel again mines diesel runs but fusing with fuel leak

 

[SPYDERLK]

Sugar would leave crystals in float bowl

If u have bled air out of all lines (prime system) according to manual then crack fitting at injector farthest from injection pump going into head crank engine when fuel comes out without sputtering tighten fitting while still cranking so won't suck air if battery is cranking fast enough should start if timing on injection pump and engine are timed correctly if all above is correct and all fitting are tight so can't loose prime if no smoke coming out exhaust injectors aren't opening need to rebuild if don't have equipment to service can get rebuilt, if smoke is coming out maybe bad fuel (water in fuel usually) smoke out exhaust means no clog timing or fuel or compression rings or valves not closing that's whole thing easiest to hardest don't think I missed anything pump pressure maybe sorry no punctuation's read slow never took time to learn that good luck

Sorry have diesel stuck on brain still if plugs getting wet firing order right plenty of spark spinning fast distributor maybe 180 degrees out rest be same sorry on diesel again mines diesel runs but fusing with fuel leak

haveuredthethredatal itwasvaluesstuk varnish

 

[okddavissr5754]

I apologized didn't reread usually only read about diesel varnish will have to be removed. if engine was designed before corn syrup ( methanol) was added to gas it will gum up components needs pure gas to run .would probably need to put carb in acid bath to clean all fuel and air passages . Because one is still clogged and not getting right mixture. if valves aren't lapped an right and stems and guides are not put in acid bath , varnish makes them drag . Because won't have enough clearance and ****** timing so won't start all that with 7 grade education I'll not respond anymore because it bothers people I don't have writing skills don't you feel proud of yourselves good luck starting your tractor

 

[ZaqAttack]

Thanks for your information..it was very thorough and informative..The tractor is up and running, I did have to go back and replace the head gasket,so one pushrod and one head gasket and a lot of cleaning... Now full to the top with premium gas and she is running like new...thanx