weld failure?

   / weld failure? #21  
The weld shouldn't be supporting the load in that design, the material it passes through should be the main support, the weld keeps the shaft in place.
It needed more material and possibly a tighter fit where it passes through the yoke.
 
   / weld failure? #22  
The weld shouldn't be supporting the load in that design, the material it passes through should be the main support, the weld keeps the shaft in place.
It needed more material and possibly a tighter fit where it passes through the yoke.

This ^^^ is my opinion also. The design in this case was cheaply implemented though....

Terry
 
   / weld failure? #23  
It was a welding failure....first comment is spot on. Bevel rod and multi-pass it with 3/32 7018 at 95 amps.
 
   / weld failure? #24  
Bad weld, for the application would be my call. In fact I don't see enough weldment to hold a stamp on let alone the caster yoke. There is a reinforcement plate provided in the basic design and the size (thickness) looks structurally adequate. Guess the paint was painted over the weld, it appears wither not enough amps, or a dirty workpiece and just got tacked and then welder went to lunch, but the painter did not so it never got completed. I would have welded on both the top and bottom.

Not sure of diameter of the yoke, but it might may well have acted as a heat sink at welding time so the workpiece never got hot enough and the welding was not hot enough either.
 
   / weld failure?
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Thanks to all who posted comments. The dealer called and said he had talked to gravely, said they had a production run with some problems. The one I "fixed" is still on the mower, I replaced the second broken one with the replacement one, it is a little different than the original ones. When I get the other new one (#2) I will post a picture of their fix so you can see it. To be continued.

This is it. (first picture) It is like the replacement one (#1) I have already put on. (second picture) is of the second failed one (#2) I am not real confident in this "new" fix. Time will tell. At least I have the original ones to hack up myself. caster wheel yolk replacement 2 001.jpgcaster wheel yolk replacement 2 002.jpg
 
   / weld failure? #26  
Very interested in this issue as I just ordered an Ariens Apex 60" with the Kohler 7000 25hp,(same as the Gravely ZT HD) the color of your caster fork appears to me to be Ariens orange not Gravely red. Have you had any other issues with the mower or are you generally satisfied?
 
   / weld failure?
  • Thread Starter
#27  
handtools, as to color, it matches the machine. I am sure there are colors that appear the same but have a different name. So far the only other problem was with the seat bolts, 2 with spacers fell out and were lost, the other 2 were loose, dealer furnished replacements. When I replaced them I put thread locker on them, this design is not perfect. Satisfaction is yet to be determined. Ours has the 24 hp kaw. engine
 
   / weld failure? #28  
Let me repair that thing with my little stick machine and some time beveling before the weld. If you could bevel out the top and lay even a small smooth bead on the top too, it would be Sooo much stronger. It shouldn't be a problem with the fit up. That's what I would do.
 
   / weld failure? #29  
Let me repair that thing with my little stick machine and some time beveling before the weld. If you could bevel out the top and lay even a small smooth bead on the top too, it would be Sooo much stronger. It shouldn't be a problem with the fit up. That's what I would do.
ME TOO. No reason it cant be welded from the top by putting a bevel and a flat weld. A grinder would fix any high spots.
I would bevel it from both sides and weld it. Since it has the backer plate on the bottom already it will require enough bevel so that you can weld the spindle to the yoke first, then weld the spindle to the backer. I guarantee that will hold till the spindle bends or the yoke twists.
 
   / weld failure? #30  
That is the big problem with Mig welding. People run them too cold. Even when a Mig weld is run cold, it looks good. BUT IT'S NOT!

Yeah, it's quite easy with a MIG to get a nice "fillet" weld that actually has a nice cavity below it. I always cranked mine until it was a little too hot (sunken edges) then backed up a tiny bit. Plus everything I ever built was over-engineered to a stupid degree, because steel is cheap!
 
 
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