ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Two days ago, my 2006 DK45s started doing odd things, which are probably caused by broken IP gear teeth. The clock read 505 hours (tach hours)at the time. I ordered new control sleeves through Conestoga ($150 delivered). Conestoga was not the cheapest but they are the closest (of known sources) and they were the folks that first told me that these IPs were easily repairable (vs a new $1500 IP from Kioti), at least for this failure. When I open the IP next week I'll know the exact cause but the tractor sort-of runs now so I'll await parts before opening it up.
I mention this here because my symptoms were not typical. Typically, this failure causes the IP rack to jam solidly in the OFF position or at some high RPM. Mine just acted like the IP rack was "sticky". Cycling the Stop Solenoid apparently slapped the rack enough to unstick it.
At first, the tractor would crank fine but not start; After cycling the key to off and back to on/crank a few times got it started. It idled OK for a few seconds, then revved to 2000 rpm, and then died. After several more starts and keeping the RPM up with the hand throttle it ran fine while I mowed for a few hours. It died when I idled back from higher RPM but easily restarted each time. One time (as I was putting the tractor away) it jammed at a high RPM and I had to stall the engine with the clutch to stop it.
I believe there are broken teeth near the idle/off position on at least one control sleeve gear which caused the rack to stick in the OFF (zero fuel) position whenever the rack moved there, such as a sudden "throttle" change from higher RPM to lower RPM.
My current quandary is: should I (1) try to do the work in the lean-to shed with the loader on, (2) try to get the loader off (but I don't have a hard level spot), or (3) raise the loader full up and prop it against a tree to get it out of the way? I think I can get the engine to run enough to do #2 and #3.
I mention this here because my symptoms were not typical. Typically, this failure causes the IP rack to jam solidly in the OFF position or at some high RPM. Mine just acted like the IP rack was "sticky". Cycling the Stop Solenoid apparently slapped the rack enough to unstick it.
At first, the tractor would crank fine but not start; After cycling the key to off and back to on/crank a few times got it started. It idled OK for a few seconds, then revved to 2000 rpm, and then died. After several more starts and keeping the RPM up with the hand throttle it ran fine while I mowed for a few hours. It died when I idled back from higher RPM but easily restarted each time. One time (as I was putting the tractor away) it jammed at a high RPM and I had to stall the engine with the clutch to stop it.
I believe there are broken teeth near the idle/off position on at least one control sleeve gear which caused the rack to stick in the OFF (zero fuel) position whenever the rack moved there, such as a sudden "throttle" change from higher RPM to lower RPM.
My current quandary is: should I (1) try to do the work in the lean-to shed with the loader on, (2) try to get the loader off (but I don't have a hard level spot), or (3) raise the loader full up and prop it against a tree to get it out of the way? I think I can get the engine to run enough to do #2 and #3.