Buying Advice The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors....

[jeff9366]

Everyone was very helpful and y'all had some great info that never even thought of.

I had no idea the dealer would deliver and even pickup for service so that may save me from buying a trailer right now

So much to consider......Thanks again for helping the rookie.

Almost everyone goes through the process you are experiencing. Keep your questions coming.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. With mowing identified as your primary tractor application ample PTO horsepower will be your successive consideration.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Weight is the only way to compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.


Rotary Cutters come in weight ranges too.

A light duty 72" RC weighs around 550 pounds and is for cutting grass only.

A medium duty 72" RC weighs around 750 pounds and will cut grass and occasional brush to 1-1/2" diameter.

A heavy duty 72" RC weighs a bit over 1,000 pounds and will cut grass and brush to 2-1/2" diameter.

If you cut heavy material with a light RC it soon ends up in the dealer's shop.

No surprise, heavier RCs require more PTO horsepower to operate than lighter RCs.

 

[ericm979]

I didn't realize how much I didn't know....or needed to know. So I looked bak at the specs of the three tractors I've sat on, they have 28.8 PTO on one, 30.0 and 30.2. Will 2-3 less PTO hp make a huge difference?

For ground engaging activities traction is usually the limiting factor. The usual rule of thumb for a rotary cutter is 5 hp per foot but that's if you're cutting really thick stuff. With 32 pto hp and a 5' rotary that's cutting grass that's a foot high max, I never even come close to stressing the tractor. Where I sometimes wish I had more PTO HP is running an 8" wood chipper on material close to its capacity. I have to turn the chipper feed as slow as it'll go and somtimes start/stop it when it drags the tractor's engine down too far.

Getting more HP than you need won't get the chores done faster or make it more fun like on a road vehicle.

I assume I need the R1 tires with the slope I have, but welcome any input.

I have mostly steep slopes on my land. My previous Kubota B7100 with R1s was tippy. I went with R4s on the Branson as they're wider, which adds stability. All tractors have the front axle on a pivot. So it's the rear alone that provides lateral stability. I had slightly smaller diameter tires and wheels put on my 3725 to lower it a bit, and 2" spacers on the rear. The rears are filled with Rimguard. The weight of filled tires lowers the center of gravity a bit.

Tractor weight is a good thing in most cases. The Branson is a heavy beast for it's size, but when I pick up a log that's close to the loader's capacity I can feel the rear wheels getting light (and that's with a 550lb box blade on the back).

Tractor brakes are only on the rear wheels. If you put it in 4wd then you'll get brakes on the front too (no center diff). This is important when going down hill on steep slopes. I had an exciting moment on my Kubota when I forgot to put it in 4wd when going down my road in the wet and the rear brakes just locked up without slowing the tractor at all.

PS....regarding dealers and support. My closest dealer in JD, probably 5-7 miles away. Then Rural King which is about 15 miles away. The Kubota and Massey (who I havent been to yet) are both about 25 miles away. So those are the only 4 in my area.

quick edit....after searching there is a New Holland dealer about 25-30 miles away.

Many dealers will provide transport for free from a certain distance. Or they'll charge a reasonable fee for it. Even if you don't do your own oil changes, it'll have to go in once a year at most. Oil and filter changes are easier than on a car or truck, just with different fluids and larger amounts (for the transmission fluid). You'll need to grease the loader and clean the radiator and screen regularly.

The implements with package deals are the cheapest implements available. It doesn't make much sense to get a super cheap box blade that'll bend unless you use it gently when you can get a sturdy one for a few $hundred more.

If you're building a house you may find a trailer useful for hauling building material.

 

[fried1765]

Couple of things from my point of view. Was in about same place as you- bought my 30 acres without a ton of experience with tractors-mine is quite hilly and treed.

I researched tractors quite a bit before buying my property and started out thinking an open station 25-30hp would be adequate. After looking at many of the tasks I would need to accomplish- road and trail maintenance (and building), brush and field mowing, fence building, tree and debris removal, trench backfilling (have a full size backhoe for the digging part) and general material moving and handling the tractor quickly grew into the 45-55 hp range.

I looked at all the brands (JD, Kubota, TYM, Kioti, Mahindra, NH, Yanmar, LS). Each one had strengths/weaknesses that could really only be assessed by butt in seat time. Finally thought I壇 settled on the Yanmar YT359C-the engineer in me totally geeked out over the iHMT transmission!! Couldn稚 get the price below my pain point. Fell into an LS XR4155HC w/lots of options for a great price.

Regarding trailer-I wouldn稚 be without my 22? 12k tilt bed-not for moving the tractor (although I did use it to haul the tractor 450 miles to its permanent home) but more for all of the other things I have hauled to the property with it (septic system parts- including a 1500 and 1000 gallon tank, pallets of insulation for my shop, 100+ sheets of OSB sheathing, used and new implements, etc) most used and useful piece of equipment I own.

"Most used and useful piece of equipment I own"

DITTO !!!

 

[s219]

I guess the main advice I want to give is not to shop solely on price, at least not right away -- too many new buyers make that mistake and make poor choices. Sometimes they are comparing apples and oranges at fixed price points, and that is a bad approach too. Figure out the size and horsepower you need for the tasks at hand, then figure out which models fit those needs, then compare and test drive them all and see what you think of each brand and dealership.

If you do go with a Deere, I'd suggest stepping up to an R model -- the E models are very basic economy machines and I don't recommend them. We have one in our family and it does the job, but for a little more money the R models are so much nicer.

Sounds like you have some good choices nearby. Visit them all, drive the tractors, talk with the dealer staff. Sometimes that will help you rank the choices better or even cross some brands off your list. The feel and behavior of the tractor, the fit/comfort of the operator station, and the ease of use of controls/etc, will probably pull you in certain directions, and that is good. You only figure that out with test drives.

As for the trailer, I bought a 7x16 about a month after getting my tractor (needed time to think about it). That has been one of my best purchases ever. Besides moving equipment around, it's super handy for getting materials, lumber, etc. As I get older, I also see a dump trailer in my future.

Good luck!

 

[jeff9366]

1. I assume I need the R1 tires with the slope I have, but welcome any input.

2. My closest dealer in JD, probably 5-7 miles away. Then Rural King which is about 15 miles away. The Kubota, Massey and New Holland (who I havent been to yet) are about 25 miles away. So those are the only 5 in my area.

1. Tires: R1/ag tires are factory four-ply. Flexibility of four-ply construction assists traction. First choice for mud. Downsides: Sidewalls thin, vulnerable to cuts. Vibrate and wear rapidly on hard surfaces. Rut residential lawn unless lawn is completely dry.

R4/industrial tires are factory six-ply and broader. Stiffer construction supports heavy Loader loads. Tire sidewalls tough. Less prone to puncture when operating a Rotary Cutter over sharp, pointed, new-cut brush. Reasonably smooth travel over hard surfaces. Downside: More material and labor in tire = 10% higher cost.

R4 tires are purchased on 90% of new compact tractors. R1 and R3/Turf tires share 10% balance.

Since we do not know your slopes, tire selection should be discussed with Knoxville tractor dealers.


2. Dealers often charge $1.50 to $2.00 per mile to transport a tractor with the mechanic at the wheel.

20 miles X 4 (two round trips) X $2.00 = $160 transportation.

Kubota mechanic time in agricultural north Florida = $75/per hour. Knoxville probably similar.

I doubt Rural King offers tractor transportation.

 

[Jchonline]

Primary use being bushhoging, I have to recommend a cab model, which puts the standard L line out of contention. 21 acres...if the budget is tight, take a look at the B3350 cabbed model. Bit smaller than the L, but still has almost the same PTO hp. You may be stuck with a 60" hog, depending on how thick the brush is, but you would also be able to finish mow with a Mid Mount Mower instead of a pull behind or separate Zero Turn, while staying in the AC.

If budget isn't tight, then the L4060 or a JD 3R model with cab. If budget is really good, L6060, M7060, JD 4066R and a batwing. Plus a good Zero Turn.

I would not touch a B3350 until they come out with the new engine...I think I read next year maybe?

 

[TheMadOne]

I would not touch a B3350 until they come out with the new engine...I think I read next year maybe?

I thought that had been sorted out within the current model, without an official refresh? If not, then yeah, disregard that and find a JD 2R instead.

 

[ericm979]

A tractor large enough to run a 6' rotary cutter and have a decent FEL capacity is probably too heavy to run on the lawn at least part of the year.

My old Kubota B7100 would leave tracks on the lawn. The Branson would for sure. I mow with a riding mower/lawn tractor.

R1s will tear up grass.

I originally was looking at a B3350. I'm glad I got the Branson. Not only because of the B3350's regen problems (one Kubota dealer discouraged me from buying one) but because it's small. I can do a lot more with the Branson.

 

[Rmally]

Thanks fellas for the input, I love hearing from you former rookies who have similar experiences. My suburban is only a 1500 so my trailering looks to be out of the picture.

So today we went to Rural King to look around and grab some boots, I jumped on a few tractors in the parking lot (they had some with cabs that weren't there last time) and kept going back to the RK55. It seemed really nice, but again I have no clue as the differences between them all. I'm going to JD and Kubota tomorrow and get some quotes so I can compare everything. I'm sure all the dealers will deliver and the RK guy said they would deliver and also have a mobile mechanic.....good for me since I won't be getting a trailer. I've been telling myself to go with the JD since they are so close to me but really need some price quotes.

The RK guy said the 37 hp would be fine, but that he'd go with the 55 if I could swing it.....said that way I would never outgrow the tractor. Now even more to consider.

Thanks again folks.

PS....quick edit. I've tried google with no result but is there a site that gives the price of each tractor brands with the same set-up? does that makes sense. In other words where you can see what a JD with loader versus a Kubota with loader, so an apples to apples comparison.

 

[Wagtail]

... Sounds like you have some good choices nearby. Visit them all, drive the tractors, talk with the dealer staff. Sometimes that will help you rank the choices better or even cross some brands off your list. The feel and behavior of the tractor, the fit/comfort of the operator station, and the ease of use of controls/etc, will probably pull you in certain directions, and that is good. You only figure that out with test drives...

Good luck!

Another great source of 'best dealership' information, for your area, are your location's neighbours. Ask them, either 'over the fence' or in the local 'pub' (although I've gleaned from from past TBN posts that the local diner may be the gathering place :licking which dealership has the best reputation for supporting their tractors when it comes to parts & service. Tractors are not cars/vehicles... they last a long time.