2017 Kioti NX6010 no start / intermittent starting troubleshooting

[PetersenRockFarm]

Hi all,
Another dreaded 'no click / nothing' experience happening recently. 1st pass around the battery needed a jump. So have kept a trickle charge on since that and battery is holding strong at 12.7 / 12.8.

Now I'm getting nothing at all when key turned, battery where it should be (hi 12v 's) and power at starter.... after 20-30 turns of key I'll get a click and start - all good.
Then today - touch brake release and a stall, I'm in neutral, sitting in seat -- repeat 20-30 turns of key, get out walk away, come back try again after a few/dozen turns it starts.

I think I was hearing the or "a" relay under the fuse box cover clicking / or not clicking - pulled panel, looked in manual, tested Relay #3 Cruise PTO Brake Relay - manual says should be 84 ohms, I get 76 ohms; continuity and non-continuity test a-ok. Don't know if this is the relay tied to the brake pedal or not for starting.... the other relays there (3-13) by Fuse Box don't sound like they would be an interrupt for Starting.

Dealer says could be ignition switch "those have been known to go"

Been reading through and searching forum here for ideas but nothing yet sounds same (maybe starter solenoid?)

ok gurus - where to start (maybe pun should be how to start) ?
TIA
Erik
Petersen RockFarm

 

[TN Kiwi]

From what I have heard on this forum a quick spray of WD40 (or similar] into the ignition switch will probably fix it.

 

[PetersenRockFarm]

Thanks TN Kiwi - yeah I read that but wasn't exactly sure that's what it meant (literally) - must turn off the thinking part of brain lol.
Will hit it with that and report back tomorrow!
Thanks!

 

[PetersenRockFarm]

so far so good - sprayed a dab wd 40 in the key slot and started 5-6 times today 1st time..... thanks!

 

[TN Kiwi]

Well that's great!!!! Hopefully that'll fix it.

 

[The Fred]

Maybe a better quality ignition switch would fix it.

 

[VictorW]

Maybe a better quality ignition switch would fix it.

That would be a nice idea but this problem has been going on for years. Mine is a 2004 model and it happened to mine after about 5 years. Whatever lube they use when assembling the switch gets hard after a while and if water or dirt dust gets in, it happens faster. I replaced mine with a new Kioti switch and saved the old one to take apart and clean for a spare. This second one has lasted 10 years so far. WD40 or other types like PB Blaster does the trick for a first try at odd starts.

 

[thekkfan]

Cab or open station?

 

[ritcheyvs]

This switch is quite simple (assuming it's like the older ones). The electrical part is a metal (copper?) disk with raised semicircle arcs that make or break connections with contacts at the back of the switch as the key is turned. Here is some descriptive material.

Over time the metal disk gets fouled with dirt, corrosion, and hard grease. The switch can be disassembled and cleaned if you are careful not to lose any of the spring-loaded parts. But an occasional shot of WD-40 (which is basically a solvent) in the key hole works about as well. A cover snapped over the key hole would be nice if the tractor is stored in the weather. IMO, a shot of WD into the key hole should accompany every greasing.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Hi all,
Another dreaded 'no click / nothing' experience happening recently. 1st pass around the battery needed a jump. So have kept a trickle charge on since that and battery is holding strong at 12.7 / 12.8.

Now I'm getting nothing at all when key turned, battery where it should be (hi 12v 's) and power at starter.... after 20-30 turns of key I'll get a click and start - all good.
Then today - touch brake release and a stall, I'm in neutral, sitting in seat -- repeat 20-30 turns of key, get out walk away, come back try again after a few/dozen turns it starts.

I think I was hearing the or "a" relay under the fuse box cover clicking / or not clicking - pulled panel, looked in manual, tested Relay #3 Cruise PTO Brake Relay - manual says should be 84 ohms, I get 76 ohms; continuity and non-continuity test a-ok. Don't know if this is the relay tied to the brake pedal or not for starting.... the other relays there (3-13) by Fuse Box don't sound like they would be an interrupt for Starting.

Dealer says could be ignition switch "those have been known to go"

Been reading through and searching forum here for ideas but nothing yet sounds same (maybe starter solenoid?)

ok gurus - where to start (maybe pun should be how to start) ?
TIA
Erik
Petersen RockFarm

If i leave the parking brake on, i may need to exercise the brake pedal 10-20 times before the safety switch starts to work and allows the engine to start. Annoying as all get out. Battery draining wise, I have that going on so i must leave a charger on it. Howerver i suspect my AC vent line is clogged since I clearly have water on my healine. I suspect water may be shorting the hot on the radio or something dumb. I won't be able to diagnos the issue until sp[ring time since I don't have a garage or heated shop.