To all mt235e owners

[chas0218]

That tractor is disgusting, wash it..........

Haha Yeah I know but the cold came in and now if I gave her a wash down it would be an ice sculpture.

Is that the HST or hydraulic filter? I have the gear version, the lines are no where near my filter can.

This is the gear tractor so I'm not sure what is going on. You also have the XG series with different frame than the MT2 series. They added support to the frame and changed it slightly on the MT2 series.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Haha Yeah I know but the cold came in and now if I gave her a wash down it would be an ice sculpture.



This is the gear tractor so I'm not sure what is going on. You also have the XG series with different frame than the MT2 series. They added support to the frame and changed it slightly on the MT2 series.

Mine is a very late production XG, my dealer told me is is identical to the MT2, with the exception of something electronic on the fuel injection. I have looked at the frames on both models and they are the same (at least the later / last production XGs are). The MT235 definitely has different plumbing. It probably is the same on the 35+ models.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Either way, those lines sure do interfere with the filter. It has to be tough to get the filter off....
Maybe they will come up with better lines that route up higher and around the filter.

 

[chas0218]

Either way, those lines sure do interfere with the filter. It has to be tough to get the filter off....
Maybe they will come up with better lines that route up higher and around the filter.

Yeah it actually presses down on that filter pretty good, enough to where it is moving the cast filter flange. I too wonder if it is only the 35hp. I know the 40hp uses the same engine just turbo version so I would think it is all the same but I don't want to make assumptions. Either way we will see what they have to say.

 

[chas0218]

Mine is a very late production XG, my dealer told me is is identical to the MT2, with the exception of something electronic on the fuel injection. I have looked at the frames on both models and they are the same (at least the later / last production XGs are). The MT235 definitely has different plumbing. It probably is the same on the 35+ models.

Would you mind posting a picture of what your lines look like so I have something to compare to?

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Here are some pics of the filter and lines. Filter is on the left side, just behind the step, facing forward.

 

[chas0218]

Here are some pics of the filter and lines. Filter is on the left side, just behind the step, facing forward.

Wow I guess they are a lot more different than I thought. Mine is on the right facing forward just in front inside of the rear tire.

 

[the old grind]

Here are some pictures of the line. It is hard to tell but it might actually be denting the filter...

Sure looks like the tubes coming off the banjos up front could both be rotated 'down' enough to pull the lines down against the can.

This could be so easy for snagged brush to make happen, and those banjo fittings could also move w/o loosening the bolts or leaking, so not noticed right away by operator.

Notch the end of a foot long 1x3 and grab a 3lb or larger hammer. Starting with the inner pipe, knock them in and up to gain the clearance you desire. I'd think more in on the inner, and more up on the outer placing the notch behind the bends to not slip. Keeping blows away from the ends will let the distortion spread out. Avoid centering too coplanar with the bends to minimize risk of kinks or bumping it further to the rear than the end of the can.

In the Muffler shop and the GM car assembly chassis lines where I worked few might guess how many fits, from hood latches to doors to deck lids (trunks), were thanks to a BFRH or a millwright's pinch bar in the pre-robotic 'early '80s. Today I'd bet a cup of coffee I could finish and warranty this job in < 1/2 hr.

 

[chas0218]

Sure looks like the tubes coming off the banjos up front could both be rotated 'down' enough to pull the lines down against the can.

This could be so easy for snagged brush to make happen, and those banjo fittings could also move w/o loosening the bolts or leaking, so not noticed right away by operator.

Notch the end of a foot long 1x3 and grab a 3lb or larger hammer. Starting with the inner pipe, knock them in and up to gain the clearance you desire. I'd think more in on the inner, and more up on the outer placing the notch behind the bends to not slip. Keeping blows away from the ends will let the distortion spread out. Avoid centering too coplanar with the bends to minimize risk of kinks or bumping it further to the rear than the end of the can.

In the Muffler shop and the GM car assembly chassis lines where I worked few might guess how many fits, from hood latches to doors to deck lids (trunks), were thanks to a BFRH or a millwright's pinch bar in the pre-robotic 'early '80s. Today I'd bet a cup of coffee I could finish and warranty this job in < 1/2 hr.

Lets just say that I might or might not have tried to rotate the line already to get under it by loosening the banjo fittings and applying force while tightening back down. I'm not going to mess with bending the line yet. We will see if they come up with for a fix.

 

[the old grind]

You're obviously a good mechanic, not pushing 'till something broke. (yes could happen easily, you'd have to be there)
It's brave of you to even ponder this 4-hand job with only two. :drink:

that you could use onsite help more than online help. jon