550xp first tank ...

[Scooby074]

Nixon, In case it wasnt you that posted the link I talked about (or for anyone else that's interested in AT) here it is :Chainsaw Collectors.se • Login

Its a members only site, so you will have to register to read it. There is a bunch of other stuff there, particularly for the Swedish saws, lot of history too.

 

[Scooby074]

Interestingly the saw comes from the factory (at least in Europe) set up for what they call "Aspen" fuel. Alkylate petrol Aspen 2 and Aspen 4 - Aspen 2011 . I wonder if that may play a part on some of the issues with these saws? At least until the saw "learns" our "lower" grade of fuel, 95 Octane

 

[NIXON]

Absolutely loving the 562. I havent ran it in a couple days so I havent had a chance to try any tricks to improve the warm start performance. I know I'll get it figured and have it starting proper.

There is a link on 0ne of the Swedish chainsaw sites that talks about the diag tool and its functions. Was if you that posted the link on Hearth to the site? (I think it was hearth?) Cant remember now.

But i can see some requirement for the computer even by the typical owner/mechanic. Things like a leaky intake or fuel delivery problem will upset the computer, making it learn and adapt to the problem.. Then once you FIX the problem the computer doesnt recognize the repair and continues to behave as if the fix never happened. This will require a reboot on the saw computer, however as it is now, I dont think you can do it without the factory Husky interface box. This is precisely the thing that scared me about Autotune.. No way to force a reboot without the computer box. At least on a car you can always unplug the battery if you had to.

Here's hoping for an aftermarket hack (or workaround as I understand they had for AT v.1.0 ) that can connect to the AT

There really isn't a computer per se . Just a few sensors and parameters . For the most part if there is a failure it will default rich as a fail safe .
Yes that was my link to the diagnostic tool .
Personally , I don't think that this AT stuff is the voodoo that folks think it is . It's just RC (resistance to change ) . Besides , it's what's coming like it or not !

 

[Scooby074]

Thanks for the great link then! I learned a bunch of stuff there.

Oh.. I dont think its voodoo As a mechanic I love all the the diag tools.. And I agree this stuff is coming whether we like it or not.

Only thing I dont like is its proprietary and I cant force a reboot without the Husky box. If / when somebody figures out a workaround im going to like it that much more.

There are a lot of relatively common things that could put you into a place where a reboot would solve the problem quicker than letting the saw relearn on its own. Bad fuel, plugged air filter, damaged or leaking intake and exhaust.. Not having the ability to reset will hamper a person in these cases.

 

[NIXON]

There are some individual things that you can reset , but I don't recall which they are . You can also do a reset of all parameters. I've been following mweba around various sites as he seems to have the most knowledge of the system ,and isn't afraid to tweak things . Our local tech is going to school on the AT system in early Nov. . I've already given him a small list of questions to ask .

 

[Scooby074]

Please post up what you learn! Autotune on saws is just the start of this. I fully expect to start to see trimmers next year with AT. The more we know the better :thumbsup:

 

[arrow]

Nixon, I think I had the same warm start issue on my 562

Saw wasnt hot but warm. Probably sat for 10 minutes while I cleared rounds from out from underfoot

Followed this procedure:

Warm engine
Start position (1): Set the start/stop switch in the choke
position by pulling the red control outward - upward. Then
immediately press down on the start/stop switch to attain
start throttle setting.
Decompression valve (2): Press the valve to reduce the
pressure in the cylinder and make starting easier. Once
the machine has started the valve will automatically return
to its original setting.
Air purge (3): Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly
until fuel begins to fill the diaphragm (about 6 times). The
diaphragm need not be completely filled.

I didnt do step 3 because there was fuel in the bulb. I didnt want to flood it. Should I have primed anyways?
Saw took probably a dozen pulls to start. I smelled raw fuel. I know I flooded it somehow?

What am I doing wrong? I watched lots of guys on youtube starting it in less than a single full pull of the starter... any ideas?

Raw fuel is usually a choke condition. Can you engage the start position w/o engaging the choke on this saw? If so, skip the choke part and pull the rip. She should start right up even if the saw has been sitting for 10 minutes. I do not have this saw and what i know is of the more traditional type saws. Please forgive any misplaced insights on my part or just tell me to shut my pie hole or in this case curtail my pouncing fingers.

 

[Scooby074]

Step 1 above is a bit different on this saw compared to most other saws. The choke, run/stop lever are combined into one. Its not the greatest design if im honest. I think I may be fat fingering it and getting the carb stuck in choke and not "fast idle" aka "start" mode.

I'll probably experiment a bit and see if "start" mode is even required when starting this saw. The main thing wanting me to follow the manual directions is a post by a knowledgeable husky expert on the swedish chainsaw forum that says if you dont follow the manual's procedure, you'll have issues with how the saw behaves.

 

[Bluegill2]

This 'new' control switch is actually better/easier, But I still like the old style.

After you kill the switch (push down), it springs back to 'start'. All I do on a hot re-start is pull the cord. If fast idle is needed, pull switch out and up, then push all the way down and start.

Hit the purge bulb a few times if the saw sits more than 1-15 minutes. But not always needed.

 

[Scooby074]

This 'new' control switch is actually better/easier, But I still like the old style.

After you kill the switch (push down), it springs back to 'start'. All I do on a hot re-start is pull the cord. If fast idle is needed, pull switch out and up, then push all the way down and start.

Hit the purge bulb a few times if the saw sits more than 1-15 minutes. But not always needed.

Ahh! I think I have it. I was pulling the switch out and all the way up. Then trying to push it down "one click".

So fast idle is "out , then all the way up, then all the way down, then release"

Start is basically where the switch springs back to after you stopped the saw the previous time.