Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link

   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #1  

JB4310

Super Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
5,638
Location
Central CT
Tractor
J.D. 4310 E-hydro
I've got a JD 4310, and recently installed the rear remotes now I want the HTL, Kenny recommended a 2" cylinder, but what else do I need know. The JD dealer was no help, I found da cylinders at TSC but they had the double yokes on each end not the single pin eye that's needed.
How are they measured? with my i-match straight, it's 24" from pin to pin.
Thanks, John.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #2  
Are you interested in making one from a standard cylinder? If not, the
SMARTFARM.COM has about the most reasonably priced one, less than
$150. No check valves, if that is important to you.

I have bought the pre-made units, as well as making 3 or 4 for other
tractors. I prefer the latter route as I can choose the exact length I
want. 2" bore and 8" stroke is generally good enough, too.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #3  
What is SMARTFARM.COM ? I tried a search and got a mapping company ????
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I have bought the pre-made units, as well as making 3 or 4 for other
tractors. I prefer the latter route as I can choose the exact length I
want. 2" bore and 8" stroke is generally good enough, too.

I'd prefer to do it myself, found 3-4 hyd shops around here that are well stocked with all the needed fittings etc., make hoses in 5 minutes while you wait, but don't have cylinders. How do you spec the length, by the closed position, middle position? Like I said mine is 24" from pin to pin when the quick hitch is plumb, would like it to move back and forth equal amounts, is 4" enough?
Thanks, JB.
 
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   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Any reason why this cylinder would not be good, it does have 10" of travel as opposed to 8".

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Retracted would be 17.5 so extended would be 27.5, giving 6.5" travel inwards and only 3.5 outward?
does this sound a good fit for general use?
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #7  
I'd prefer to do it myself, found 3-4 hyd shops around here that are well stocked with all the needed fittings etc., make hoses in 5 minutes while you wait, but don't have cylinders. How do you spec the length, by the closed position, middle position? Like I said mine is 24" from pin to pin when the quick hitch is plumb, would like it to move back and forth equal amounts, is 4" enough?
Thanks, JB.


JB, I like to design open and closed lengths by attaching an implement
that is often used (box blade usually), then putting it at its mid position.
I guess you could call that plumb. Then I want to build a HTL with a
closed length of that # minus half the cyl's stroke.

As for the Surplus Center cyl, it is OK, except your swivel eye holes are
1 inch and not 3/4 as your cat 1 requires. No prob with the extra stroke
and diameter. The SMARTFARMER.COM HTL is the right eye hole size and
about the same price.

If you do buy a cyl and your own weld-on swivel eyes, you need a WELDED
cyl (not a tie rod cyl). You can get 2x8s from SurpCntr for $50, and the
eyes for $5 each.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #8  
dfkrug

Guess I am just computer challenged but SMARTFARMER.COM gives me a web site for Mark Gheen Music Service????



I FOUND it at thesmartfarmer.com ...those first 3 letter make a big difference
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#10  
If you do buy a cyl and your own weld-on swivel eyes, you need a WELDED
cyl (not a tie rod cyl). You can get 2x8s from SurpCntr for $50, and the
eyes for $5 each.

I don't think I need anything that customized, do you actually cut the rod to get the exact fit? I still don't have enough of a grasp of this to order one yet. I can weld so that wouldn't be a problem if it's easier to get what I want.
Measured mine again today, with the threaded adjustable top link it goes from 19" fully retracted (threaded in) to 29" fully extended, both measurements are pin to pin, 24" is right in the middle with the i-match quick hitch straight. That's why I figure I need the 10" stroke.
All my implements will attach to the i-match so nothing will change there, I couldn't find any info on the smartfarmer HTL as all they have is a price, not even a picture.
 
 
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