NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140

   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Wait till you run it.
I had no Idea how bad mine was
even before it went bad (IE: when I thought it was good).

I can now from clutch up neutral just push the clutch down
and engage my transmission even at 1/3 throttle
with no grinding. It's almost like a syncro-mesh.

Who's next .... Mitch

Dave
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #52  
I'm definitely next, I am putting money aside right now for it and I'll probably look at doing it mid August. We are buying hay right now, so every spare dime is going to that. Mine is not grinding now, but it is adjusted as far out as it will go, so just a temp fix. Is he usually pretty booked? Just wondering if I should call him now or wait.. Glad you guys got yours running like new! I would like to get another 20 years+. I hope!
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Mitch,
I replace the threaded rod with a 1/2" shorter one and
was able to get little more adjustment out of it.
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140
  • Thread Starter
#54  
He got both of us in withing a couple weeks of calling him.
But it all depended on whats in his que.

What Jim does is:
He has a few restoration projects in the shop all the time,
The restorations don't pay that well over time because
they sit forever with no billable hours.
Billable hours is where he make his money.

But he keeps one bay open for repair work,
Jim say he love the restoration jobs
but the repair work is what pay his bills.
He doesn't have any real storage space for tractrors to sit around,
so when he's ready you bring it to him
and it's in right the shop that day and
then out pretty fast.

Dave
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #55  
Arrived at Jim's place at 5 tonight. Jim took the time to go thru each piece of the repair in depth with me. Then he gave me some training in coupling and decoupling the backhoe. I am thrilled with the clutch performance now. Jim did a great job and I highly recommend him to anyone. As for my repairs, in addition to the new pressure plate and center bearing, he actually had my friction plate rebuilt locally. Last part to arrive was the pilot bearing, theirs a photo attached which shows what was left of mine. Other photos show the new hydraulic disconnects and the under frame bolts that need to be removed to drop the backhoe. Couldn't be simpler now. Mitch you won't be disappointed. Thanks again to Jim for the recommendation.



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Forgot to mention the rewire for the burnt wiring I had, and he also replaced my missing charge light as well!
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Glad your please.
I personaly like Jim and his work,
but allways afraid when giving recomendations.
Like I said his shops not much to look at,
but I instanly trusted him.


He's gotta be getting real good at these Iseki/Bolens TX's now.

Funny the only good part on myclutch was the bearing
Yours bearing was toast.

Jim also had my disk re-lined.
He tried 2 "new" friction plates one so called OEM
and said they were both junk and choose not to use them.
Showed me one of the "new" ones it was a really poor casting
where it slides on the shaft.

Now no more excuses, get to work !!

BTW:
My Ploymark backhoe comes off/on with no tools.
Just 6 clevis pins and a slip lock on the PTO driven pump.
Literaly off in 30 seconds,
On takes a few minites to get lined up.
But with the new smth operating clutch its was easy.

Be careful with the backhoe off.

Dave
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #57  
Dave - personal references can certainly save countless headaches. In this case it did not only that, but rescued my machine from an uncertain future. Jim explained the same issue that you relate with regards to the spline gear. Happy he took the extra measures for me. This machine is now ready for another 20+ years. I'm looking forward to getting her into the same shape that Mitch has with his machine. Oh and by the way Mitch, can you tell me what you used for white paint on the sheet metal and how you prepped the surface?
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #58  
i have a bolens G214 with loader and backhoe.Nice tough tractor for the size.Hard to get on and off of (so many shifter levers)unless your a skinny guy LOL.looking to sell mine as I bought a TYM451 45hp
 
   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #59  
Thats great that you got it back, and in such good shape! I am definitely next! The paint took me awhile to find the right color, but it is actually light ford grey. I bought the Valspar brand of ford grey that they sold at Tractor Supply, but they stopped carrying Valspar. They seem to have a a bunch on clearance in the back of the stores. They have a new brand called Majic. I talked to them about it, and they said that it is an exact match, but I did buy a few cans of the Valspar so I can touch up the paint when I need it just in case, but after looking at the paint in the store, I think that it will work the same. If not, you can buy the Valspar here in a pack of 6 cans for $37.80. ^ cans will be more than enough. I started by sanding the old paint job with a hand held electric sander, and fine grit paper. I then removed the old label with a heat gun, and took the hood, fenders, and all of the white panels off. It is actually very easy to do. I then painted all of the panels with the spray cans, using several light coats, so I would not get paint that ran. When I was done, and got the finish I was happy with, I used a clear gloss enamel coat, after it had dried very well in the sun. I bought the Rust-Oleum truck bed coating for the foot rests that I bought at Walmart, and I used gloss black for the rest of the tractor. I bought the decals from Sams Bolens, and I also replaced the warning lights that I ordered from him. I had to replace my alternator, and I put a new Yanmar 15.5 in 36 spline steering wheel on, because I was not happy with the replacement one that I got that is made by Sparex. It just felt cheap to me, but it would have worked. I also used lots of blue painters masking tape. This is a photo of my actual tractor from the site I found it on before I restored it, and then after:

url

url


And this was the final result after the weights, ROPS, paint, new seat, warning lights, alternator, decals, a new battery, a spotlight, and new hood latch springs and a few other small details. It really was not that expensive overall.

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Dave - personal references can certainly save countless headaches. In this case it did not only that, but rescued my machine from an uncertain future. Jim explained the same issue that you relate with regards to the spline gear. Happy he took the extra measures for me. This machine is now ready for another 20+ years. I'm looking forward to getting her into the same shape that Mitch has with his machine. Oh and by the way Mitch, can you tell me what you used for white paint on the sheet metal and how you prepped the surface?
 
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   / NH/MA G154 G174 tx1300 TX1500 TX2140 TX2140 #60  
Thats a great tractor, and the G214 is a 21HP right? Iseki makes such a good machine, but TYM is also a very good brand as well. Mine is a bit tough to get on and off, I know they are smaller framed people in Japan where the make them, and that may be the issue..
 
 
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