LK3054 Alternator

[JoelD]

There is an alternator on ebay, not sure, but may fit?

[Jimmyb33]

Thanks JoelD. I hadn't seen that til I saw your post. That one looks much newer than mine and the black plastic covor on the back makes me think it may have the regulator incorporated into the alternator assembly... anyone recogonize that alternator as one with the regulator built in??? (just search kioti in eaby and it will pop up) Now I'd have to wonder if I could get that one working correctly with my older model tractor set-up...

I'm not 100% sure my current alternator is not working yet... From reading what IXLR8 has said (as well as some other threads on the "parts/repairs" forum) unless I'm geting power to the "field" connection, the alternator will not output any power to charge the battery or run any other electronics.

I've got a couple of options to work with here. IXLR8, I will get the cover off the "regulator" and post some pics next chance I get. I'm also going to trace the wires from the "original regulator" and maybe even find the wire that was supposed to go to the "field" on the alternator and test it for voltage. (you never know... it might still be hot!) If I get nowhere with that, I've found a shop close by that rebuilds alternators and starters. I can take mine to them and get them to check it out. If they determine it's bad, then I can start looking for a replacement.

I'm a cheap *****!! I'll duck-tape it together as long as I can!! I do appreciate you posting the ebay option Joel! That would be one of the first places I'd look for a replacement. Anyone know what a new LK3054 alternator would cost? ...just in case I decide to go that route? (not very likely )

jb

[kentrodngun]

Jimmy, have recovered sufficiently enough to look at my machine. It's over at my gun club as I was using the FEL to load sand into the backstops. I plan to shoot tomorrow and will bring the digital to see if I can take some pictures for you. I will also see if I can get numbers off the regulator & alternator.
Hang loose, John

[Jimmyb33]

Thanks John,
If the weather settles down here this evening I'll try to get some pics of the inside of the regulator up here for inspection.

JB

[Jimmyb33]

ok.. I was able to get some pics of the "regulator". I also was trying to trace the lines out of the original regulator... didn't take long for me to realize that I'm not too good with electrical stuff. I tried to do connectivity test on some of the wires out of the regulator and kept getting "everything is connected to everything" else results. I was able to check for voltage on the original regulator. The electrical diagram attached shows the I get 12v out of the blue and red wires when the key is turned on. I don't get any voltage out of any other connections at the regulator.

There is no voltage on the "field" connection on the alternator.

I hope you guys can make some since out of this.

jb

[IXLR8]

Jimmy,

Originally Posted by Jimmyb33

ok.. I was able to get some pics of the "regulator". I also was trying to trace the lines out of the original regulator... didn't take long for me to realize that I'm not too good with electrical stuff.

Just because you couldn't trace some wires in a bundle in impossible to get at places... doesn't mean you are not too good with electrical stuff. You have made more progress here than lots of folks I know would have.

Originally Posted by Jimmyb33

I tried to do connectivity test on some of the wires out of the regulator and kept getting "everything is connected to everything" else results.

This is not surprising, especially if you had the ohm meter on something higher than the minimum scale. The original regulator is solid state and everything connected to everything is sort of expected. If your meter had a diode setting, that is the only one that would have any meaning.

Originally Posted by Jimmyb33

I was able to check for voltage on the original regulator. The electrical diagram attached shows the I get 12v out of the blue and red wires when the key is turned on. I don't get any voltage out of any other connections at the regulator.

Did you put the voltage readings on the schematic you posted, along with the wire colors? I spent some time tracing the wires in the schematic... either the color coding is wrong, the schematic is wrong, or the wires change color between pt A and pt B. Makes it difficult to sort out.

Originally Posted by Jimmyb33

There is no voltage on the "field" connection on the alternator.

I didn't think there would be, thanks for verifying this.

Thanks for the pictures of the regulator insides. It tells me the unit is in good shape, the contacts look good, no sign of corrosion or pitting. When you put the cover back on, make sure it is tight the gasket is sealed well. I would also gently clean up the back side where the two wire wound resistors are.

I think the 12v readings you got on the Original Regulator are the battery input, red wire, and the field output, blue wire. I suspect the yellow wire goes to the alternator warning light on the dash, so I am a little surprised you didn't have 12v there as well. Although, the blue wire could be the lamp with the yellow for the field. Is there any sign of cut wires around the alternator, if so, what color are they? I would be looking for a blue or yellow wire. Is there a connector tucked away somewhere nearby? Since we don't know were these wires go.. I suggest we don't mess with this regulator, yet.

Now the question is... How lucky do you feel??
If it was me... at this point I would get:
- A friend for another set of hands who is comfortable with electricity, running motors and reading meters.
- A second volt meter.
- A length of thin wire, 24 gauge or smaller, to get from the battery to the IGN connection on the "new" Regulator. Remember, a 28 gauge wire is smaller, and for this test better, than a 24 gauge wire. The safest would be to get a small fuse, 2 amp or so, and put that in series with this wire, as close to the battery as you can. Most folks don't have a fuse holder laying around and I wouldn't bother making a trip to Radio Shack or similar place just to get one.

I would:
- Put one meter across the battery to monitor its voltage.
- Put the other meter from the "Field" connection on the alternator to ground. This would be to monitor if any voltage is getting to the alternator.
- Connect one end of the length of wire to the + side of the battery. On the end of the wire that is free, strip off very little of the insulation. This is to minimize the change of the battery being shorted to ground. This is why I suggested a small wire, if it does get shorted, the wire will act as a fuse. The worse that will happen is the wire gets hot where you are holding it. Remember to keep this wire away from ANYTHING on the motor that might move. Tape or ty-raps are your friend here.
- Start the tractor, bring engine RPM to 1400 or so, no need for anything higher. Monitor voltage at battery and at "Field" connection on the alternator. Take the wire and touch it to the IGN connection on the regulator. Just touch it for a second or two.. just enough to see if you get any voltage at the "Field" connection on the alternator. Be aware, if things are working correctly, there is a good chance there will be some sparks when you touch your wire to the IGN terminal, this will actually be a good sign. If you do get voltage at the field connection, then I would try again, slightly longer, and see if the voltage increased on the battery. You might also hear a slight change in the tone of the engine if the alternator does put out voltage as it will be trying to charge the battery.

If you have ANY questions about this procedure... post them before you start.

Good luck.. let us know the results.

[Jimmyb33]

Wow!
First, Thanks for your help and encourgement with this little project of mine. I deffinately would not have gotten this far with out it!

One the schematic, I did add the wire colors (and voltage of the red and blue) for the wires leaving the original regulator. Some of the wires do change color at that first connection. (green goes to white, blue to white/green, yellow to white/blue) and there are many splices and dead end wires down near the starter. tracing these would be a nightmare!

As for testing the new regulator out. I'm feeling pretty lucky!!
I really don't see where I have much to loose... I'll see what I can dig up over the weekend and give it a shot. My neighbor is an industrial electrican so he should have an extra meter and maybe a fuse holder for us to use...(but he's a kubota owner ) I had actually thought about doing something like what you suggested, but hadn't thought it out completely.

Thanks agan four the support! That's what makes this such a great forum!
I'll report back with some results soon!!

jb

[kentrodngun]

OK finally got to look at the machine so here's the info:
Alternator data off tag: AG1350A 12v 35 amp
"Tractor 15321-K6401-2"
My meter at the battery reads 14.8 volts while running.

I've attached some pictures for you of the regulator & alternator and also some crude drawings of the wiring harnesses. Hope it helps. Keep us posted.

John

Caught an error in my diagram - terminal F should be white wire with green stripe

[Jimmyb33]

Thanks John!
Those pictures and the diagram really give me something to work with. My wires from the regulator is very close to yours. I'll have to print all these out and see if I can make some sense of it. This really helps!!

After further review, I get...

white/green goes to "F" field
Black goes to "N"
white (or maybe white/blue) goes to "E"

right now i have 12v on white/green and white/red.....
I'm going to check these again to make sure
I got them right...




jb

[JoelD]

The wrist bone is connected to the hand bone the hand bone is connected to the finger bone the finger bone is ....ahh..stuck in my nose bone.

I couldn't help my self.

I've also got the LK3054XS, I've got the service manual, let me know if there is anything I can help with. Based on the prior posts these guys know a whole lot more than me.

Good luck,
Joel