DK40SE HST - neutral safety switch problem

[k0ua]

I think paying $120 is way better than having to remember all that! :laughing:

Elementary my dear Watson, Elementary!...

It would not be hard to build the bypass network, especially if you retained the plug on the old pot. You could easily cover it in the liquid rubber for waterproofing.

 

[murphy1244]

That double post BS is back!

 

[k0ua]

That double post BS is back!

yeah I noticed.. two of mine in 2 minutes

 

[Looking4new]

When the double posting happens I click on the second post and delete it. The first post will still be there.

Thanks for the info on that shifter switch, thankfully I don't got one.

 

[MotorSeven]

Not as simple as splicing wires, the module measures a voltage drop in the Potentiometer. 5 volts on the one outside lead and ground on the other, then the center lead will have a variable voltage on it depending on the arc of the lever. As you move the lever thru the "gears" L-N-M-N-H the changing voltage is read by the cruise module to determine what gear/range to display in the instrument panel and sends along a signal to allow the starter relay to pull up. To bypass this expensive part you would have to build a resistor network of 2 resistors and tap them in the center for the center lead. This would give you the voltage drop you would need to send a signal that the tractor was in neutral. Of course the N lamp would always be lit no matter which range you were in. I would need to look up the voltage that equals one of the N positions, as read by the module, and do the math to calculate the values of the resistors you would need to put together in your "network".. Clear as mud?

Uhmmm...yeah.....{cough}clear as mud:laughing: How 'bout I send my old one to you for forensic analysis then T & E? PM me your addy....I know you need another project in your life like I do:shocked:

 

[k0ua]

Not as simple as splicing wires, the module measures a voltage drop in the Potentiometer. 5 volts on the one outside lead and ground on the other, then the center lead will have a variable voltage on it depending on the arc of the lever. As you move the lever thru the "gears" L-N-M-N-H the changing voltage is read by the cruise module to determine what gear/range to display in the instrument panel and sends along a signal to allow the starter relay to pull up. To bypass this expensive part you would have to build a resistor network of 2 resistors and tap them in the center for the center lead. This would give you the voltage drop you would need to send a signal that the tractor was in neutral. Of course the N lamp would always be lit no matter which range you were in. I would need to look up the voltage that equals one of the N positions, as read by the module, and do the math to calculate the values of the resistors you would need to put together in your "network".. Clear as mud?

Uhmmm...yeah.....{cough}clear as mud:laughing: How 'bout I send my old one to you for forensic analysis then T & E? PM me your addy....I know you need another project in your life like I do:shocked:

I will be glad to look at it for you. and do an analysis.. I would actually enjoy figuring it out. PM on the way.

 

[k0ua]

OK for those that are interested, I received the sensor from MotorSeven and measured it, and found several "dirty" spots along its arc of travel as measured on an analog ohmmeter. I drilled a hole in the sealed unit and pumped it full of WD-40 to use as a cleaner/lube. While it did improve it considerably, the sensor potentiometer still had one area in its arc of rotation that made the meter jump excessively. I don't have any Deoxit Gold to spray in it. It is possible the correct cleaner/lube might bring it back to life, but it is iffy.

As a side note, the dealers mechanic was out yesterday to change out my cruise unit that I mentioned not indicating the correct range when it was cold. He mentioned that it is a known problem with a few units, and it was changed out under warranty. It was not difficult to get to under the floor pan, about where you left foot would normally rest. It was accessible by laying under the tractor. Two screws and two plugs.

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks for the info. Hmmmm, I have not read any cruise control issues...... my cruise contr......wait...nope....not gonna jinx myself.

 

[rmorey]

Thanks for the info. Hmmmm, I have not read any cruise control issues...... my cruise contr......wait...nope....not gonna jinx myself.

Ahhh what could happen?! :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for the info. Hmmmm, I have not read any cruise control issues...... my cruise contr......wait...nope....not gonna jinx myself.

What is interesting is the actual cruise function worked OK, but the cold temp, not indicating what range the tractor is in, and allowing a start in a range problem was something I decided they could fix under warranty.