Work light

[GolfAddict]

There is a light kit from BXpanded that includes lights, wiring, switch, and the instructions for tapping into the existing provided work light wires on the back. Everything I've gotten from BXpanded is top-notch quality, and I'm sure this kit is the same.
Work Lights
I did, however, add my own and in retrospect wonder if I should have just ordered their set... Anyway, here's what I did.

First I found the provided work light wires at the back. This was simple to do, they were taped up in electrical wire just sticking out of the black flexible conduit back there. In the picture, the conduit I'm holding back is what I added over my wires. Before doing anything there was just the vertical conduit with a little gob of tape on it that you take off and find the work light wires.

The work light wire already have the connectors attached to plug into.

Then, I ran the hot and ground wire up to a switch box I made. This was just an electrical outlet box with a blank cover. I drilled a few holes in the cover so I could stick switches through. I could have put them all on one switch (given I use enough amp switch) but I wanted them on separate ones.


I wanted everything completely removable, so use velcro to mount the switch on the fender.


Then ran the wiring from the lights up the ROPS and fasten with wire ties. The lights are 55W halogens with magnetic bases that you can get at Fleet Farm for about 17 bucks each, and each had a 16ft cord that I routed down to the box/switches and cut off to length. Actually, I got the switches, conduit, box also at Fleet Farm.


The alternator at 40a is more than enough to drive the extra lights.

 

[Birdman1970]

I'm no electrical person, so if I'm wrong...please correct me. On my tractor, I used two LED lights that draw about 3 amps total. My tractor had two un-used wires near the caution lights under the fender. I checked which wire was "hot", and which was "ground". The hot wire had power when the ignition switch was on. I connected these wires to my three prong switch, with a 5 amp fuse on the hot wire. I connected each power wire from the light into one "hot" wire, connected this to the switch. Connected ground wires from light into one wire, connected to bolt on fender. I didn't use a relay, not certain if it matters in my particular application. BTW, I chose LED lights because of their low current draw. The light output is brighter than my factory halogens either high or low beam. The lights have a very slight blue tint (my halogens have a bit of yellow), and the LEDS do produce some noticable heat...not hot but definately warm. I can used my factory halogens, and/or use the LEDS at the same time, or just the LEDS.

You are in the clear. This is the way I ran my LED lights (and also one of the reasons I chose the LEDs - the same as you, the low current draw)....to the factory harness bullet plugs that were pre-wired for worklights.

Here is a link to my installation: >>> LINK <<<<

 

[dlmpsy]

Birdman1970 and GolfAddict, very nice write-up & pictures. I'm very pleased with my LEDS, they look to be the same model as yours.

 

[oklandist]

Thanks all,\

The diagrams were great, explains a lot. I will let you know how I make out.

 

[oklandist]

Hi again,

I have my lights mounted and I am doing the wiring. I have decided to use the accessory wires in the back of the tractor that were wrapped in with the wiring harness and use a 3 way rocker switch, but for the life of me I cannot get the lights to work. I know they work as I tested them on a car battery. I think either my switch is dead or I am wiring it wrong. It is a lighted 3 way rocker switch. The prongs on the bottom are 2 silver and one brass/gold color. I have put the power from the car battery to the first silver post and the ground to the brass gold post. The light in the rocker switch will go on and off as I toggle the switch. Then hooked the lights to the middle post, but nothing. Am I wiring it up wrong? I have attached a picture of a similar rocker switch.

thanks

 

[Birdman1970]

Hi again,

I have my lights mounted and I am doing the wiring. I have decided to use the accessory wires in the back of the tractor that were wrapped in with the wiring harness and use a 3 way rocker switch, but for the life of me I cannot get the lights to work. I know they work as I tested them on a car battery. I think either my switch is dead or I am wiring it wrong. It is a lighted 3 way rocker switch. The prongs on the bottom are 2 silver and one brass/gold color. I have put the power from the car battery to the first silver post and the ground to the brass gold post. The light in the rocker switch will go on and off as I toggle the switch. Then hooked the lights to the middle post, but nothing. Am I wiring it up wrong? I have attached a picture of a similar rocker switch.

thanks

Couple of things you can check:
1) Make sure your Key is ON for the tractor.........these wires are not hot unless the key is in the ignition position OR the tractor is running.
2) Make sure you are using the BLACK wire on the tractor as GND and the COLORED wire as your +12VDC
3) Make sure you have the +12VDC connected to one side of the switch (NOT the ground point of the switch) and the other side of the switch connected to the + side of your lights. The GND (-) of the lights should be connected to the BLACK wire of the tractor.
4) Make sure you are GROUNDING the switch on the proper GND point (this is for the proper operation of the light on the switch)

 

[StrangeRanger]

GolfAddict, let me save you the cost of my experience... you may want to remount your lights to the underside of your ROPS

 

[PA-Woodchuck]

Does anyone know the alt amp output for a BX2350?

 

[BXpanded]

BX 2350: 40 amps

 

[GolfAddict]

GolfAddict, let me save you the cost of my experience... you may want to remount your lights to the underside of your ROPS

I hear ya, StrangeRanger - much easier to get them knocked off up there.

I only ever use the lights in the winter for snow removal. I remove them completely otherwise as I'm always doing things that would be getting them hit. With the switch box mounted with velcro and the lights magnetic it's fairly quick and painless to remove the whole set up in the spring.

If you're leaving lights on permanently it would be a much better idea to have them mounted inside the ROPS for better protection, and will also reduce the overall height clearance needed.