my kubota rebuild

[mattbatson]

I've been fixing my recently purchased B1750 for the past few months, and have been posting it on a couple of forums, and figured I would add it to this one too.
the thread is here... http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=209875
all my future updates will show up here on this forum though...
Hoping this can help others.
Long story short, I bought this tractor sight unseen from a tractor auctioneer in TX and had it shipped to me in FL. I had seen a video of it operating and when I got it, it appeared to be fine.
However, I uncovered a hornets nest of problems, including a cracked cluth cover (the main frame tunnel in the center of the tractor), heavily damaged clutch/pressure plate, bent flex plate, tranny hyd filter screen filled with metal shards, and bent FEL....
I'm in the process of fixing it all :confused2:

onto the ongoing saga.....



ok, took delivery of my 700 dollar used clutch cover today...
rusty from sitting in some salvage yard in alabama for many years...

took it to get sandblasted and is now sitting in coat of Ospho as there was still some rust that the sandblaster missed...I may take it back to have them hit it again, as the inside has a few spots still. I have other things off the tractor needing blasting, so will take them in too.

my brand new flexplate...shiny

bought some paint from lowes for the dark grey on the clutch cover...I think they matched it up pretty well, and got a half gallon for 26 bucks as opposed to 35 for a pint at kubota.
plan to apply with a paint brush

I removed the rear main seal/carrier, and started scraping off the old gasket material...takes two paper gaskets and then the main seal itself..

I noticed on the inside of the crank hole there is a rubber gasket thing that looks like it has seen better days...not sure what it does, but will look up in the manual and call the dealer about it tomorrow.

moving along...need to pick up the pace or it is never going to get done, ha ha

 

[bigbull338]

your restore job sure is looking nice.an i know your learning alot as your rebuilding it.

 

[Bluegill2]

Goin to be like a new tractor. Lookin good!

 

[mattbatson]

thx
I am learning it inside and out, and replacing any wear items as i go
plan to pass it down to my 3 yr old son someday :thumbsup:

 

[KubotainNH]

Interesting thread. Looking at the youtube I can see the machine flexing in the middle with just the weight of the FEL. Add weight to the front and ballast to the back would put some serious flex on the bell housing. This setup NEEDS a subframe from front to back so this does not happen again. IMO, most of this damage is from not having a subframe and still being used with cracks making the thing flex constantly. The flex puts huge stresses on the clutch which could be where that damage came from. My little B6100 has a 1/4" by 2" subframe linking the loader frame to the rear axle. I think there's pictures on here somewhere of it. I also attached a picture of another B1750 I found via Google, I added arrows to point to the subframe I'm talking about. Mine is setup similarly, if you want photos of mine I can get them for you. Good luck with this project.

 

[KubotainNH]

Dug around a bit and found that my clutch post has some pics of the subframe. There's also some good ones in my power steering post which is in my signature. The way it is setup, when you split the tractor, 2 parallel flat bars separate. Kinda hard to explain though.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/114577-sad-day-my-b6100-2.html

 

[mattbatson]

Interesting thread. Looking at the youtube I can see the machine flexing in the middle with just the weight of the FEL. Add weight to the front and ballast to the back would put some serious flex on the bell housing. This setup NEEDS a subframe from front to back so this does not happen again. IMO, most of this damage is from not having a subframe and still being used with cracks making the thing flex constantly. The flex puts huge stresses on the clutch which could be where that damage came from. My little B6100 has a 1/4" by 2" subframe linking the loader frame to the rear axle. I think there's pictures on here somewhere of it. I also attached a picture of another B1750 I found via Google, I added arrows to point to the subframe I'm talking about. Mine is setup similarly, if you want photos of mine I can get them for you. Good luck with this project.

That is a great idea, and something I will plan for this tractor. Not sure if I'll take it into the dealer, or somebody else to do that install. I went to your pics and had a hard time seeing how it connected. Thanks for the excellent advice.

also, I was wondering if you did your rear main oil seal while you were in there doing the clutch?
I'm getting ready to put the new one in, but am not sure if I should coat the outside of the new seal(the portion of the seal that presses into the opening) with some sort of silicone sealant or some such...
I'll take pics and post of what I'm talking about...

 

[KubotainNH]

That is a great idea, and something I will plan for this tractor. Not sure if I'll take it into the dealer, or somebody else to do that install. I went to your pics and had a hard time seeing how it connected. Thanks for the excellent advice.

also, I was wondering if you did your rear main oil seal while you were in there doing the clutch?
I'm getting ready to put the new one in, but am not sure if I should coat the outside of the new seal(the portion of the seal that presses into the opening) with some sort of silicone sealant or some such...
I'll take pics and post of what I'm talking about...

I did not touch the rear main seal, I didn't see the need. I didn't even remove the flywheel. As for the sealant, I would probably use a very small amount of RTV where it's metal to metal (with a paper gasket??). On the rubber that touches the crank you can wet it with a bit of clean motor oil.

 

[mattbatson]

I did not touch the rear main seal, I didn't see the need. I didn't even remove the flywheel. As for the sealant, I would probably use a very small amount of RTV where it's metal to metal (with a paper gasket??). On the rubber that touches the crank you can wet it with a bit of clean motor oil.

thx for the info...

now, I thought about some RTV on the perimeter of the rubber oil seal...the surface that seats within the carrier that it rides in...pics here
here is how I removed the old seal

now here is the new seal as it would go into the case that carries it...

here is the new seal sitting in the carrier...but not pressed in yet...

so, I will definitely put some oil on the inside of the oil seal where it rides on the crank.
and there are two paper gaskets for the carrier where it bolts to the engine, that I may put a thin film of RTV onto.

But , still trying to decide if i should put any RTV or equivalent type silicone onto the outside perimeter of the oil seal :confused2:

sorry if it seems like I'm being overly cautious here, but I really, really, really, dont want that oil seal to immediately start leaking once I get this thing back together again.
I've done main oil seals on cars before and had one or two leak immediately, so now I really take my time and make sure I do it correctly :thumbsup:

 

[mattbatson]

so I took some of the advice that I got from different people on the forums and used WD-40 to help the oil seal slide in, packed the backside of the seal with grease to keep the spring inside, used a block of wood and very, very carefully banged it in...little by little...to the depth that the original one was in
it all went in straight and true.

used some emery cloth very, very carefully to take off some sharp metal on the edge of the crank where the oil seal slides over...

sharpened a little screwdriver in order to make a scraper that would fit in this tight area to scrape off the old gasket material

this is the inner paper gasket

this is the outer paper gasket

I was going to spread a little RTV onto the paper gaskets and install the oil seal with carrier, but found my old RTV tube had hardened up...so need to go get some in the morning

Once I put that back on, I can install the flex plate, and then the flywheel, then the clutch and pressure plate.

I'll keep ya posted :thThumbsU

 

[mattbatson]

install went pretty well...

all torqued on at 8ft lbs on the little 10mm bolts.

spread some motor oil on the inside of the oil seal to help it slide onto the crankshaft.

I went to install the flex plate and after cleaning the area some more noticed the freeze plug here is a little rusty.

another pic

this freeze plug is normally covered by the flexplate, meaning if it ever started leaking I would be separating the tractor again

do you guys think it is bad enough that I should do it now?
or not bad enough to worry about?

I hate to stall out when I'm getting some momentum, but want to do things now rather than later IF needed.
thx

 

[Bluegill2]

That's just a little surface rust on a bare (no paint) steel freeze plug. No need to replace it.

 

[KubotainNH]

I don't recall ever hearing about someone having a freeze plug leak on one of these. I wouldn't bother and would worry more that a replacement may leak. How would you test it while taken apart?

 

[mattbatson]

sounds good, on to the flywheel then ! :thumbsup:

 

[mattbatson]

I do have another little problem also...
In my factory kubota service manual it speaks of a metal shim or gasket, in the shape of a circle, that the 5 flywheel bolts go through when bolting on the flywheel.
It had been a month or so since I had pulled the flywheel, and I didnt remember removing such a thing.
I know for a fact that this shim/gasket didnt go on the outside of the flywheel, as I had pictures from pulling it off.
so that would mean that it would have to be on the inside, between the crank and the flywheel.
So, after searching the garage and coming up empty, I went to the dealer to order it up.
The dealer couldnt find it anywhere in the schematics on the computer. I looked over his shoulder and sure enough there isnt anything there on the parts breakdown?

Does anyone have any first hand knowledge about this ?

Should I just bolt the flywheel up and call it a day?

I'll take a picture of the service manual instructions and post them up...in about an hour or two
thx

 

[mattbatson]

okay, so the flex plate is on...

and then the flywheel went on without a hitch...blue loctite on the bolts

but then I checked the manual to see if I missed anything AFTER I installed everything :drunkie:

as you can see they mention some sort of flywheel washer, and it would seem to indicate it is steel.

but again, went to the dealer, and they showed nothing of the sort on their schematic's.

 

[johnk]

Very nice and informaitive rebuild/restoration going on. Keep up the pics as they are great..

 

[Doppelgangar]

From the Pic of the fly wheel there has been a washer and this is commom on desiel.

From the damage to the flywheel it may be damaged previously.

 

[mattbatson]

From the Pic of the fly wheel there has been a washer and this is commom on desiel.

From the damage to the flywheel ir mat be damaged previously.

this is what i found when I split the tractor.
there isnt a washer there?
Do you mean on the INSIDE of the flywheel? Between the flywheel and crank?

 

[Doppelgangar]

Question Who is saying the tractor has not been apart previously?

The shim washer goes under the bolt heads and against the fly wheel.

On viewing that there may not have been one and your manual may be for a earlier or latter engine.

Leaving it out is not likely to cause any ongoing problems or you may have to look at a wrecker to get one.

From that Picture the bolts don't seam loose but the engine was run for some time after the clutch had flown apart.