Rear remotes + TNT for B-series tractors

[MadReferee]

Early last fall I decided that I would need rear remotes on my B2710 since my new snowblower would have a hydraulic chute rotator. At the same time I figured it would be nice to have TNT capability. Determined to learn from those TBNers who have gone before me, I read all previous posts on remotes and TNT and gave them to my friend who owns a hydraulic repair business for his opinion and recommendations. Since he has previous experience adding hydraulic components to tractors (JD and Kubota) along with splitting a few for non-warranty HST repairs, I felt I was in good hands.

The Kubota hydraulic specs for the B2710/2910 are: hydraulic flow of 6.4gpm with a pressure of 1991psi max and an open center valve with power beyond capabilities since the 3pt is the last valve in the circuit. The B2710/2910 also have an aux hydraulic outlet block at the rear of the tractor which makes connections much simpler (ie. you do not have to connect directly to the loader valve block like on the B7800).

Based on the hydraulic specs and after doing plenty of research and eliminating several spool valves (including Kubota's, Gearmore's, Dinoil's, Sauer-Danfoss's and several from Surplus Center) we came upon what I consider the best setup for the money available at that time. This works well on my B2710 and should work equally well on any B2910/B7800.

Our setup choices were:

1. Prince SV valve rated at 12gpm with three 4-way 3-position, spring return to center spools (#SVW1BA1), power beyond (#SVE22), and an inlet relief valve set at 2000 psi (#SVI25).

2. 3/8" inside diameter hoses for the inlet/outlet/power beyond and one set of work ports. 1/4" hoses for the TNT.

3. a 3/8" quick disconnect on one spool and 1/4" QD's on the other two spools.

4. Hydraulic top link from CCM.

5. For the tilt link, either make it from components or buy one if and when one becomes available.

The next few pictures show the system as it is today.

 

[MadReferee]

My B2710 is an early production model and has the rear flashers mounted on the fender inside of the ROPS. This photo shows how I moved the right hand flasher outside of the ROPS using a bracket from a later model B-series.

 

[MadReferee]

This photo shows how I mounted the valve assembly. If you look closely you will see a custom fabricated mounting plate to which the valve block is mounted. This is ten mounted to the fender using 1" spacers and a few newly drilled holes.

 

[MadReferee]

Here is a photo of the top link I purchased from CCM. I painted it ROPS gray.

 

[MadReferee]

Here is a rear closeup of the valve block. Notice the hose on the left is 1/2" diameter. This is only temporary since my friends service truck did not have enough 3/8" hose left to complete the job. It will be replaced this spring at which time it will be relocated to behind the seat.

Note that I used 1/4" hose for the left spool. It is connected to the top link. The right spool uses 3/8" hose and is connected to the chute rotator of the snowblower and can be used with most any rental peice of equipment.

The center spool is currently capped off awaiting the tilt link. It will use 1/4" hoses.

 

[MadReferee]

Plumbing the valve block was very straight forward.

Once the Kubota aux hydraulic block was connected, the pressure side was connected to the inlet of the valve block. The other aux hydraulic block side was connected to the valve block's power beyond. The valve block's outlet or return was connected to the hydraulic reservoir along with the loader's return to tank hose by using a tee connector. This is possible since this is not a normally pressurized line.

3/8" hoses are used here but 1/4" would probably work just as well. The passage used by the aux hydraulic block cover plate looks to be only 1/4" dia. Kubota uses 3/8" hoses for the loader so that is what we went with.

Now for the pricing.

Most of the hydraulic components were obtained at my friends cost which turned out to be about a 10% savings over Surplus Center. Prices are approximate and are as best as I can remember.

3-spool Prince SV valve setup complete w/shipping $220
3 hoses, 3 sets work port disconnects, all fittings $150
Kubota hydraulic outlet block $69
CCM top link w/shipping $170
1/4" hoses for top link $28

Total of $637 for 3 spools + top link.

As soon as my tax refund check arrives I will be getting the following:

TCC tilt link from Integration Engineering w/shipping $278
1/4" hoses for tilt link $28

That makes a complete setup only $943. Your prices may vary. I know the complete TCC setup goes for around $1250 without the 3rd spool. I figured I did ok and am a little more flexible.

 

[Henro]

MadReferee,

THanks for taking the time to post the details and photos!

I am hoping to do something similar this year...or next, I wonder...I was leaning towards the Prince valve you selected. I'm glad to see it working in advance. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MadReferee]

One of the selection criteria on the valve block was that it not be a heavyweight monster and that it fit between the ROPS and the seat. The Prince fits that requirement by having a footprint of only about 8" x 8".

MR - who grew up in Monroeville, a neighbor of Henro

 

[Fruitacres]

Just keep in mind our list price for 3 spool stacking valve kit for B2710 plus TnT kit for B21 is $1540 and you would do much better if we sold it to you and you installed it yourself. No fabrication or drilling extra holes not approved by KTC.

Fruit Acres Tractor
877-725-4205

 

[RobertN]

I saw an interesting valve mount at the rental shop when I picked up a roller/compacter last week. They had various size Deeres. They made a bracket which clamped around the ROPS. Then an arm extended up near the driver posistion, kinda over the front edge of the fender. The valve was mounted on the end, so the operator did not have to reach back to work the valves. And, it was easier to work when the operator would be looking over thier left shoulder on occasion.

Mine is mounted about the same place as yours...