Refurbishing my Z145 135

[The kid]

Never used any sites before, I'm a bit lost, you seem right keen tractor people. I don't write so well.

Pat

Pat, I didn't mean to ignore you. Welcome to TBN. What I have learned is by reading and learning from the group postings here on TBN. Welcome aboard.

 

[bucktaker]

Nice Job I hope to resurrect my mf 35 rebuild soon The wife wants it out of her parking spot for winter

 

[BobG_in_VA]

It appears that you painted over the PTO shaft as well...probably shouldn't do that as the layering of paint will make it darn near impossible to get it coupled up with anything...its hard enough sometimes with bare metal and grease....just saying...BobG in VA

 

[The kid]

Nice Job I hope to resurrect my mf 35 rebuild soon The wife wants it out of her parking spot for winter

That's another reason I'm in hurry up mode. Our basement is packed with stuff and the Street Rod takes one side. So it's been kind of messy outside the garage and the General wants it cleaned up.:laughing:

 

[The kid]

It appears that you painted over the PTO shaft as well...probably shouldn't do that as the layering of paint will make it darn near impossible to get it coupled up with anything...its hard enough sometimes with bare metal and grease....just saying...BobG in VA

Good eye Bob. When I started painting the rearend, I noticed I forgot to tape off the PTO. I later took some lacquer and cleaned it up.. but point :thumbsup:

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Here's what it looked like before disassembly. It was a PITA too. See the rounded bolt ends.

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Here's the after picture. A little bit of powder coated bling for the rear.

 

[The kid]

Refurbishing the 135 radiator

One item that gets overlooked alot is the radiator. It does what it does and keeps your engine running cool. I'm replacing the hoses, clamps on mine and well as giving a good cleaning the best I can. I drained the tank and the water was amazingly a clear green. I'm going to test the water with a hydrometer to see if it's worth poring back in. The previous owner must have just replaced it, it's that clean.

I took a flashlight and looked down inside the cap opening and saw some corrosion buildup around the tubes. I read somewhere on the net you can clean your own radiator with muratic acid. 1/3 gal. MA and 2/3 gal water. If you want to clean your water jacket, then run it thru mounted with the engine running and water feels warm (thermostat open) . It takes a little over a gallon of mixture. It doesn't take long to clean things up.

I layed mine flat, filler cap on and hose ends up. Rubber gloves and eye protection is a must. Keep a hose pipe charged and nearby in case of an accident.

After about fifteen or twenty minutes I empted the radiator in a large container to be later disposed of properly. I looked inside and nearly all deposits where gone. The MA mixture did it's work.

The radiator is held on my two carriage bolts that slide into slots on the bottom of the tank. It looks like pieces of thick strapping material goes between the radiator and the frame and the carriage bolt passes thru it. The engineers of the 135 sure had the famer in mind in making home repairs. The Rad is quite easy to remove. As long as your bolts are in good shape. My carriage bolts where rusted pretty bad and needed rethreaded with a die to clean off the rust.

One of the bolts was not even tight because the previous owner couldn't tighten it because of the rust on the bolt. So only one bolt was holding it in place.

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Here shows a slotted hole and a round on for easy mounting and dismounting of the radiator.

 

[Lava Rancher]

Looking good, Didn't think of cleaning my own... Good idea although I'm not super enthused about working with muriatic acid. I do have some on site but neutralizing it can take a lot of baking soda. It would be quicker than driving an hour to the shop twice....

 

[The kid]

Looking good, Didn't think of cleaning my own... Good idea although I'm not super enthused about working with muriatic acid. I do have some on site but neutralizing it can take a lot of baking soda. It would be quicker than driving an hour to the shop twice....

Muratic Acid you buy over the counter is not industrial strength but strong enough to disolve hard water buildup, but used with safety precautions. If you had a gallon of pure lemon juice it would do the same thing. Anything that's acidic. One or two boxes of baking soda would neutralize the small amount I used. LimeAway is a form of acid to rid your home water fixtures of hard water deposits and I've used it bare handed.

I did a google on "How to clean a auto radiator" and the diluted acid was one of them I thought would be most effective and safe to handle.

 

[The kid]

Kid, Hubby and I were at a very large Ag show this week and noticed in the Agco building they had a small section of Sparex parts available on display.

:tractor:--MasseyLady

I got to thinking about your engine as to it being a Z134 or a Z145. On the very top of my intake manifold is stamped Z145. It is the original manifold. It has obviously been removed at one time or the other because the heat shield was missing. Does yours have that stamping on it? I'd be willing to bet yours is a Z145.

 

[vegaome]

It's looking good kid.