My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)

[MasseyWV]

After a very exhaustive and time consuming search, believe that I've finally managed to determine what parts of the OEM Massey Ferguson manual cover the Continental Z-134 and Z-145 4 cylinder gasoline engines. At this time, available information seems to indicate the following.

The OEM Massey Ferguson manual was originally a 5 (or more) volume dealer set, that was divided into groups, sections, and parts. Groups were the major categories such as engines, sections were the secondary categories such as engine models, and parts were secondary category chapters such as engine specifications. Division nomenclature would typically be displayed at the top of each page as "GROUP XX - SECTION XX - PART XX", with XX being whatever letter or number was applicable to that group, section, or part. The group and section covering the Continental Z-134 and Z-145 4 cylinder gasoline engines were as follows.

Continental Z-134 4 Cylinder Gasoline Engine:
Group I - Engines and Engine Systems
Section B - Model Z-134 Engine

Continental Z-145 4 Cylinder Gasoline Engine:
Group O - Basic Engines and Procedures
Section O - Model Z-145 Engine

The parts covering the Continental Z-134 and Z-145 4 cylinder gasoline engines were as follows. Note that parts 1-2 do not include specifications for the oil pump, which are required if performing an engine overhaul.

Part 1 - Specifications
Part 2 - Engine Overhaul Procedure
Part 3 - Fuel and Air System Servicing
Part 4 - Lubrication System Servicing
Part 5 - Cooling System Servicing
Part 6 - Electrical System Servicing
Part 7 - Special Tools

Many reproduction Massey Ferguson manuals seem to have been assembled from various parts of the original OEM Massey Ferguson multi-volume dealer set, and many reproduction service manuals for the Massey 135 tractor seem to have parts 1-2, but are lacking parts 3-7. Please keep in mind that much of the information I have found is extremely limited, so the accuracy of some things is still questionable. Use at your own risk.

As mentioned previously, I do have a few leads for obtaining more concrete information, but would rather not say much more until I know for sure.

 

[MasseyWV]

Despite the ongoing problems with the service manual, which I hope to put behind me very soon, I've managed to continue making progress. The cylinder head presented quite a challenge to clean, sandblast, and prime because I had to take great care not to sandblast or get primer on the intake gasket and head gasket mating surfaces.

 

[Mike476]

Nice job. What method of paint application do you plan to use.

 

[The kid]

35% seems a little high. And you should have been made aware that there was a re-stocking fee.

But I do understand the logic behind the charge. At least I can see one reason. What would stop a person from ordering the manuals, making copies, then returning for full credit. What do they (Jensales) get for their "trouble"?

BTW if you have read negative reports about Jensales why did you order from them?

frankroberts

ps. I've been enjoying your thread.

I'd say if didn't open the booklets then your entitled to a full refund. If they have been opened then you SOL. Frank has point. -robert

 

[MasseyWV]

I'd say if didn't open the booklets then your entitled to a full refund. If they have been opened then you SOL.

They arrived "opened" inside the shipping box, no plastic, nothing. For all I know, the manuals I received could have been someone else's returns. Besides, unless a manual was physically damaged, it would have been rather hard to determine if it was defective unless you "opened" it to view it's contents. In my case, the manuals were incomplete, and the copies were of generally poor quality.

 

[MasseyWV]

Nice job. What method of paint application do you plan to use.

When the time comes, I'll probably use my HVLP (high volume, low pressure) automotive spray gun to paint everything except the hood assembly and fenders. To paint the hood assembly and fenders, I may use my traditional automotive spray gun (old faithful) to get a smooth high gloss finish. Some of the smaller parts, such as the water pump assembly, will require me to pre-coat them with paint using rattle cans because portions of them won't be accessible after they're installed.

As for the paint, I'll probably go with PPG or Martin Senour acrylic enamel with hardner, but regardless of which paint I decide to use, I definitely won't be using alkyd enamel also known as "tractor paint".

 

[Mike476]

I've used most types of paint over the years, I'd go with the acrylic enamel as well but for the skins I'd use base / clear. The first time was because I had some left over from painting my 04' Ram, I'll do the same again. Expensive but extremely durable when compared to most anything else I've used.

 

[The kid]

They arrived "opened" inside the shipping box, no plastic, nothing. For all I know, the manuals I received could have been someone else's returns. Besides, unless a manual was physically damaged, it would have been rather hard to determine if it was defective unless you "opened" it to view it's contents. In my case, the manuals were incomplete, and the copies were of generally poor quality.

I emailed AGCO about the widespread selling of bootleg copies of their manuals. They actually called me back and where going to check it out. BTW I did find me a operators/assembly manual someone was selling in Canada. Vintage 1965 too. -Robert

 

[MasseyWV]

I emailed AGCO about the widespread selling of bootleg copies of their manuals. They actually called me back and where going to check it out.

Unfortunately, there probably isn't very much AGCO can do about it because many manuals printed in the 1960's and 1970's weren't properly copyrighted and became public domain the moment they were published. If anyone is interested in reading more about it, see the TBN forum thread I recently created about copyright laws and the PDF file attached to it.

Copyright Law - Public Domain - TBN

 

[MasseyWV]

I've used most types of paint over the years, I'd go with the acrylic enamel as well but for the skins I'd use base / clear. The first time was because I had some left over from painting my 04' Ram, I'll do the same again. Expensive but extremely durable when compared to most anything else I've used.

I've considered using base/clear paint for the sheet-metal, but I'm leaning towards acrylic enamel because it's cheaper and easier to maintain, especially when performing touch-ups.