Gc 1720 50 hr service DIY

[Ooklaa]

ok so I decided to do the 50 hr service myself, id like to first say thank you to all of you for helping me with question I have had and I also want to say thank you to Jon at www.Goffsequipent.com in the service department for giving me a head up on a sale they had a while back and I took advantage of it by doubling up on filters and stuff.

so now for what I did. the hydro was the best looking fluid out of all of them. Many have said that it doesn't need changing at 50 hrs I have no idea what to say on that as I'm learning as I go. I went to autozone and bought a nice long oil funnel cause I purchased the big 5 gallon bucket of hydro fluid and its way eaiser to pour it in with this type of funnel. I posted pictures of where everything is. from their its pretty much taking things off putting hem back on and filling up the oil levels appropriately.

the front diff fluid looked really bad not sure why. if its the same fluid as the the tranny when it came from the factory then man the front diff def needs changing more often. it was also the hardest fill out of all of them, next time I will go get a better funnel just for the front diff. also make sure you open up the breather valves on top when filling it up. fill it up slow or it will pour out when I saw it getting up to the top I closed one hole poured in more slowly filled more then closed the other. engine oil was good but I changed it anyway. I put in the oil that massey recommends for warranty purposes. dealer told me just in case something breaks they can use it as a excuse to void warranty. I wanted to post a step by step process but I got really busy with my restaurant, catering parties just started popping up this month and last.

please feel free to add you own input and recommendations.

ps I forgot to take pictures of all the grease points but I will and update.

 

[ray66v]

U.S. Federal law says, a manufacturer cannot void your warranty for not using a specific brand of oil. Nor have they ever tried, as long as I have been here.

If there is a failure that requires your warranty, it will me a major defect, as in something literally breaking inside. And, MF will likely already know about it. Because, yours won't be the first. There will be no debate about fluids. Parts only break in a new unit, because they are defective. And, this is extremely rare.

Permatran is very good oil, and if people want to use it that's fine. But, using fear mongering, to sell product, is a low life tactic.

 

[SteveM70]

When I told my dealer I needed the stuff to do the 50 hour service he sent me home with Shell Rotella oil and Shell fluid. Works for me.

I do think I will switch to synthetic at my next oil change if for no other reason than to help with cold starts in the winter. It's June and I still need 5 seconds on the glow plugs for a quick reliable start so I'm a little worried about true cold weather starting.

 

[AxleHub]

I switched to synthetic on the engine oil side at 40 hours (right before winter came to WI).

Ookla I'm curious about 1 of your pictures. It shows you holding some type of narrow tube type filter ?? What is that ?

 

[Snobdds]

That's the suction filter for the hydraulic sump. The service manual says it needs to be cleaned at 50 hours.

 

[AxleHub]

That's the suction filter for the hydraulic sump. The service manual says it needs to be cleaned at 50 hours.

Is that where they talk about being careful of the "O ring" ?

 

[SteveM70]

Is that where they talk about being careful of the "O ring" ?

Yep. This filter and its location should be described in your owners manual.

 

[Rocko]

I think there are two O rings for that screen. one on each side of the suction pipe....(one usually stays attached on the suction filter or screen.)

 

[SteveM70]

I think there are two O rings for that screen. one on each side of the suction pipe....(one usually stays attached on the suction filter or screen.)

You are correct, two o rings.

 

[ray66v]

When I told my dealer I needed the stuff to do the 50 hour service he sent me home with Shell Rotella oil and Shell fluid. Works for me.

I do think I will switch to synthetic at my next oil change if for no other reason than to help with cold starts in the winter. It's June and I still need 5 seconds on the glow plugs for a quick reliable start so I'm a little worried about true cold weather starting.

Wait! What about the warranty???

Synthetic oil will only help with cold starts, when you get well below zero. At the kind of temps you will normally see, there should be no noticeable difference. Some will insist there are differences. But, the specifications do not bear that out.

That being said, I do have all synthetic oil in my tractor.

I have never had any trouble starting my tractor, even when it has been below zero. It's a matter of learning how to do it.

On mine, a below zero start requires about 30+ seconds of glow plug time. You also have to open the throttle some, when it's very cold. I usually open my throttle about 25%.

If it doesn't start after 5 seconds of cranking, STOP. Further cranking, will only result in a dead battery. Go back to the glow plugs again, and then try cranking again. When you get the hang of it, it will never take more than two tries.

Some people never get it. But it's a matter of figuring out what your tractor needs.

Five seconds in warm weather, for a cold start, is not a problem.

You can always do like most people do, give up, and pay the ransom for the block heater. But, I have not needed it.