Recent content by NormL

Unless the other pin is easily removed I would be inclined to just take measurements and see if your tractor place can find a match for you. Be aware that the pin is probably hardened so that buying a pin without the hole won't do. Oops!! Did not see the above post till after I hit "send".

Today I managed to mow those weeds I mentioned yesterday!! It was indeed the electric clutch causing problems. One of the differences between the 18hp Kohler and the 16hp Briggs and Stratton is the output shaft size: Kohler - 1.125", B&S - 1". To accommodate the difference in diameters I...

That fuse blowing short was the leads coming off the coils reversed. One of those is grounded to the engine and the way I had it connected shorted the fuse. Easy fix but still not sure its charging. On to the next issue: when the mower deck is engaged the engine stalls. I suspect something in...

Looks like I'm not done with the engine swap just yet!! Something is not right with the hookup to the charging coils. I looked everywhere on the tractor the 18hp Briggs came out of for a regulator but was unable to locate it so I used the one from the Kohler. When I have that wired in and...

Many thanks go out to those who offered the advice I requested when I opened this thread. Though I initially expected to be able to repair and re-install the Kohler, it soon became obvious that if an appropriate replacement engine could be found I would be time and money ahead going that route...

This project has shifted focus from repair to replace with the acquisition of a lightly used 16hp Briggs and Stratton. I have been taking my time and carefully fitting attachments from the the Kohler to the Briggs: the PTO electric clutch on the output end of the crankshaft, and the...

I followed through with the previous post's agenda and found the #1 side as healthy as could be expected for the hours on it. Now here's a "brain bomb" I had yesterday! See what you folks think: I showed the pix of the damage and broken bits to a friend who is pretty small engine savvy and...

Next time I have some shop time I'll open up the other cylinder and see if any clues present themselves. The sudden loss of power while one cylinder could not possibly be contributing any bothers me. If I see more trouble in there it will mean a total rebuild is needed - a possible game...

I totally agree, but the reality is that at first it had the power to run the mower and cut some serious grass before suddenly losing that capability. I don't think that mystery will be solved any time soon, if ever. I would much rather replace the engine than repair and reinstall this one...

I got a few quick minutes of shop time in just now and I am happy to report that after some back flushing and shots of compressed air, we have oil at the opening for the connecting rod. I'll still have to try to find out what other damage is hiding in the crankcase. Still looking for a way to...

Here's a plan to determine whether the problem started with lubrication deficit. Fill the crankcase with enough oil for the pump to pick it up. Spin the crankshaft with a drill for a few seconds and watch for oil to emerge from the opening in the crankshaft clearly visible in the picture. If...

oldnslo and Randy T thanks for your replies. The rust damage is doubtless from long time or frequent water finding its way in. And yes, I suspect a problem with lubrication to that portion of the crankshaft. All issues taken together, I have to wonder if I'd be better off looking for an...

I've had some help from one of my daughters (visiting from Vancouver BC). Let's see if I can post pictures: First pic shows what I saw when the head was removed. Second shows damaged cylinder skirt. Third shows damage to piston. Fourth shows some deposit of metal from the con-rod. Last one shows...

If this engine is anything like the ones I have: B&S, Onan, Kohler, the ignition module delivers a spark to both cylinders simultaneously. This means that the larger the gap on the sparkers, the more stress in the electronics of the module. The gap of 0.030 becomes 0.060 and at 3600 RPM that...

Thank you RandyT for that tip, and WranglerX for the link. I will look for that access panel. The manual suggests the engine block is designed to split and I really don't want to go that route. It occurs to me that removing the cylinder barrel on the side with the broken con-rod should reveal...