Cub Cadet 1811 - Need Advice Removing Engine

[KennyG]

A little late to the game here, but take lots and lots of pictures. I always have that "one thing" I knew I would remember that gets left off.

 

[NormL]

Thank you RandyT for that tip, and WranglerX for the link. I will look for that access panel. The manual suggests the engine block is designed to split and I really don't want to go that route. It occurs to me that removing the cylinder barrel on the side with the broken con-rod should reveal everything I need to see before deciding to forge ahead or take a step back and rethink how deep this project needs to go before reassembly can begin. And yes, I've taken pictures as I go along to document the project as well as help with reassembly, thanks.

 

[NormL]

I've had some help from one of my daughters (visiting from Vancouver BC). Let's see if I can post pictures: First pic shows what I saw when the head was removed. Second shows damaged cylinder skirt. Third shows damage to piston. Fourth shows some deposit of metal from the con-rod. Last one shows the con-rod that was still attached to the piston plus some bits I was able to fish out of the crankcase once I took the cylinder off, That small item beside the con-rod worries me because I have no idea what it's for. I may have to split the crankcase to find out what it is and if it can be put back. What I fear is that it broke out when the other parts broke apart and that damage is not reparable.

 

[oldnslo]

You will have to remove the PTO and cover on that end of the engine to reassemble so I would do that to see what else is damaged. Not sure what that piece is part of. If that rod was starting seize what else is scored?

 

[RandyT]

The cylinder has been sitting with water in it for some period of time. So major rust damage, the crank and the broken rod pieces shows lack of lubrication failure mixed with water damage. And cylinder skirt damage from the rod hitting it.

 

[NormL]

oldnslo and Randy T thanks for your replies. The rust damage is doubtless from long time or frequent water finding its way in. And yes, I suspect a problem with lubrication to that portion of the crankshaft. All issues taken together, I have to wonder if I'd be better off looking for an engine replacement. By the time I've paid for the work I would have to "farm out", I might be money ahead. I'm looking into that option as well as the repair.

 

[NormL]

Here's a plan to determine whether the problem started with lubrication deficit. Fill the crankcase with enough oil for the pump to pick it up. Spin the crankshaft with a drill for a few seconds and watch for oil to emerge from the opening in the crankshaft clearly visible in the picture. If there is oil there then the issue lies elsewhere. If not, I would need to find a way to clear the obstruction(s). Thoughts?

 

[NormL]

I got a few quick minutes of shop time in just now and I am happy to report that after some back flushing and shots of compressed air, we have oil at the opening for the connecting rod. I'll still have to try to find out what other damage is hiding in the crankcase. Still looking for a way to gain access without splitting it. Next move will be tipping the engine on the side and removing the mounting plate from the underside. It's an oily greasy mess in need of cleaning up anyway!! If there should happen to be an oil pan to remove, that would be helpful.

 

[Grumpycat]

I find it hard to believe that rusty cylinder ran for 3 hours immediately before disassembly.

 

[NormL]

I totally agree, but the reality is that at first it had the power to run the mower and cut some serious grass before suddenly losing that capability. I don't think that mystery will be solved any time soon, if ever. I would much rather replace the engine than repair and reinstall this one with that mystery unresolved. It all comes down to cost. Right now there are too many other holes to fill and not enough dirt!!