I just use regular belts on my Alamo (Gates or D&D Power). I always have a spare, though. When I put the spare on, I order another spare. I don't break belts unless something gets tangled in the rotor or I pick up something that brings it to a dead stop. That seems to happen every other year...
This is awesome! Flailmaster will have any and all parts you'd need for this unit. I also have a SHD88, and it's an absolute tank. Just keep an extra belt on hand. The belt will break if you wedge something in it, like firewood (ask me how I know...). The belt size is C54, and I just get...
My solution for my ditch bank ended up being a three point mounted disk mower. I got a heck of a deal on a used one. I use it for making hay and mowing my ditch. It's designed from the start to hang off to the side and only requires 1 remote (to lift it). It weighs less than a comparable flail...
I don't know anything about the Caroni blades, but you can reach out to Flailmaster to see if they have any blades that would fit your mower. They will be significantly less expensive than OEM. If you can post a picture of what you currently have it would help us help you.
When you raise the cutter up the blades have a harder time actually cutting the grass. The grass will be moved instead of being cut. The moving comes from both the air turbulence and the blades themselves. This will cause the grass to tangle into the cutters. The closer to the base of the grass...
I'd anticipate the JD to be about $1200 and the Land Pride to be about $1500, but those might be low as I'm basing this off when I was looking and selling a few years ago. Seeing that new prices have almost doubled on some implements, I wouldn't be surprised if they're asking double my numbers...
Hello from Eastern WI.
I would personally take the JD 25A only because parts are going to be more readily available aftermarket. Either way, Flailmaster should have the knives and probably some other parts. The advantage of the clevis mount is the blades have an additional direction to move if...
For situations like that I usually use a Dremel and cut-off wheel to score the bearing race in 3 locations evenly space around the circumference. Usually the bearing will crack at one of the scores when they get deep enough. At that point I can begin to pry it off and it will break at the...
That was already suggested here. The issue I discovered when looking into it is it mixes before the pump using the suction to draw in the chemical along with the water. I cannot use that because I have a PTO driven pump and a pressure relief valve that circulates back to the tank. It would pump...
I tried that. Unfortunately I would have to roll it up every time I mow. And the "light duty" hoses only last one season from my experience. Plus we have rodents. The garage cat (because she insists on staying in the garage instead of the barn...) keeps the population low, but it seems like they...
It is a 3 point mounted sprayer. The hay field is a not visible from the house. I had considered running a water line from the house to the garden, but it would be quite a task. I would need to bury 200 feet of pipe to get to the main garden area, and another 250 feet of pipe to get to our other...
I've used peristaltic (metering) pumps in my designs for work before. I did some brainstorming on this. I'd need to have a pressure switch to activate the pump only when the sprayer pump is running, and it would be beneficial to have some sort of potentiometer to control the speed of the...
That's exactly what I'm trying to accomplish. Sometime between last night and this morning that item disappeared. I did find another one that isn't the tow-behind: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/chapin-sprayer-25-gal-atv-mixes-on-exit-97562?cm_vc=-10011#
I went to the Chapin website...