How much temp is too much.

[JC-jetro]

Hi Guys,

I was on my place yesterday, it was nice and toasty here in Kansas. After about 1/2 of heavy tall brush hogging my temp gauge moved all the way up just a notch below high in really heavy brush. I raised the hood up and just felt the heat without touching and the engine did not feel excessively hot... I was sweating like a pig myself so my heat tolerance was higher than normal.Ii disengaged the pto and slowly drove to the barn, The temp started to come down but stayed on the right side the middle about 1/8" on the dial. I did not have my infra red thermometer with me to measure actual temp. I'm not too concerned with the needle calibration.

I went back this morning to collect data and like to share it with you all.

Radiator full of coolant, no leak at all, water pump has no leaks, appears to work, belt is tight enough and the fan blade turns with no issue. The radiator screen was a bit dirty which I cleaned. Took my leaf blower with me and blew the radiator core where I got some dirt out but not much.

Cold engine, sender resistance=690 ohms, radiator housing 98 in the shade and ambient of 100 degrees.

normal operating , needle right smack in the middle, sender @140 ohms, T housing 172, head 174, exhaust man 192 and the radiator at 170 deg F.

Hot temp, 1/8" right of the middle.

sender 87 ohms, t stat housing 196, head 197, exhaust man 216 and radiator at 196 deg F.


Really hot, 1/8" left of the overheat mark.
sender 66 ohms, t stat housing 210, head 212, exhaust man 250 and radiator at 210 deg F.


I'd like to know your opinion and experience. I think there is nothing wrong here only that the tractor was chewing more than it could in a really hot day. It seems my rig from normal to really hot was running between 172 to 210 deg F jacket water temp.

Any comments?

JC,

 

[ccsial]

My 1910 will go up to one notch below hot too when bush hogging. Part of the problem is the radiator screen getting dirty. I never run it past that point. I idle down for a bit and then clean the screen and start over. Been doing this for years with no problems other than the pain of stopping and cleaning.

I've thought about putting a real temp gauge on it but never got around to it.

For some reason the Kubota never moves much above the cold mark no matter how hard I work it. I'd bet the new New Hollands cool much better than my old 1910 too.

 

[RickB]

Hi Guys,

I was on my place yesterday, it was nice and toasty here in Kansas. After about 1/2 of heavy tall brush hogging my temp gauge moved all the way up just a notch below high in really heavy brush. I raised the hood up and just felt the heat without touching and the engine did not feel excessively hot... I was sweating like a pig myself so my heat tolerance was higher than normal.Ii disengaged the pto and slowly drove to the barn, The temp started to come down but stayed on the right side the middle about 1/8" on the dial. I did not have my infra red thermometer with me to measure actual temp. I'm not too concerned with the needle calibration.

I went back this morning to collect data and like to share it with you all.

Radiator full of coolant, no leak at all, water pump has no leaks, appears to work, belt is tight enough and the fan blade turns with no issue. The radiator screen was a bit dirty which I cleaned. Took my leaf blower with me and blew the radiator core where I got some dirt out but not much.

Cold engine, sender resistance=690 ohms, radiator housing 98 in the shade and ambient of 100 degrees.

normal operating , needle right smack in the middle, sender @140 ohms, T housing 172, head 174, exhaust man 192 and the radiator at 170 deg F.

Hot temp, 1/8" right of the middle.

sender 87 ohms, t stat housing 196, head 197, exhaust man 216 and radiator at 196 deg F.


Really hot, 1/8" left of the overheat mark.
sender 66 ohms, t stat housing 210, head 212, exhaust man 250 and radiator at 210 deg F.


I'd like to know your opinion and experience. I think there is nothing wrong here only that the tractor was chewing more than it could in a really hot day. It seems my rig from normal to really hot was running between 172 to 210 deg F jacket water temp.

Any comments?

JC,

I say that your gauge and sender are well calibrated, and your tractor is performing well. If and when the gauge gets to the overheating mark, the engine will in fact be overheating or very close to it. With a 7psi or so radiator cap, at 1/8" to the left of the overheat mark, your tractor is running at its maximum thermal efficiency. Diesels do not run well or efficiently while cold or even warm.

 

[rayikeo2]

JC, I think there is a problem with some part of your cooling system. Whenever the needle goes above the middle mark on the guage of the 1700 it is above normal in my estimation. When working mine with a 5' brush hog running the normal temp is just to the left of the center mark. When the screen gets dirty or I am overloading the brush hog it will go about 1/16 inch above the center mark. When that happens if I shut off the PTO and it returns to the left of the mark. You could have a water pump going bad. Do some more checking. With the tractor shut down (not running) manually check for any wobble by hand (don't force it) of the pump shaft at the pulley. If no wobble, hose the radiator with water and mow some more and recheck. When my water pump went bad it began to get longer as the shaft moved toward the radiator. It almosted rubbed the radiator causing a flating of the cooling coil. ( the pump seperated into 2 pieces when I took it off). I guess if the pump is ok it might be the thermostat. I would hesitate to continue the mowing if the guage was running that high. Pump replacements can be purchased on ebay. Ray I.

 

[JC-jetro]

I say that your gauge and sender are well calibrated, and your tractor is performing well. If and when the gauge gets to the overheating mark, the engine will in fact be overheating or very close to it. With a 7psi or so radiator cap, at 1/8" to the left of the overheat mark, your tractor is running at its maximum thermal efficiency. Diesels do not run well or efficiently while cold or even warm.

Thanks Rick That's what I wanted to hear. I replaced my radiator cap and at the high heat It never released causing any coolant discharge. everything has a limit and I push my little tractor right there. I've started to open up some shooting lanes for upcoming deer season. I think I'll do it a bit later in September and watch not to exceed middle high.

CCsial, The best way to know is to read the temp. Obviously even the best temp meter can be off on either side of real temp. if sending unit out put is linear then one can calibrate the temp needle against some known temp and that's as close as you can get. Those HF Infra Red meters come pretty handy.

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

Original radiator cap is 13 PSI according to my owners manual.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, I think there is a problem with some part of your cooling system. Whenever the needle goes above the middle mark on the guage of the 1700 it is above normal in my estimation. When working mine with a 5' brush hog running the normal temp is just to the left of the center mark. When the screen gets dirty or I am overloading the brush hog it will go about 1/16 inch above the center mark. When that happens if I shut off the PTO and it returns to the left of the mark. You could have a water pump going bad. Do some more checking. With the tractor shut down (not running) manually check for any wobble by hand (don't force it) of the pump shaft at the pulley. If no wobble, hose the radiator with water and mow some more and recheck. When my water pump went bad it began to get longer as the shaft moved toward the radiator. It almosted rubbed the radiator causing a flating of the cooling coil. ( the pump seperated into 2 pieces when I took it off). I guess if the pump is ok it might be the thermostat. I would hesitate to continue the mowing if the guage was running that high. Pump replacements can be purchased on ebay. Ray I.

Ray,

My Water pump is working like it should unless the impeller is chewed out which I doubt. There is no wobble at all. Radiator screen was a bit clogged up but not too bad. T-stat housing temp and upper radiator is about the same temp which is kind of indicate t-stat is fully open. The opening might have some calcification as well. I'll keep my eyes open but doubt if I have an issue. changing pump,tstat would be no issue when O need to do it.

Jc,

 

[rayikeo2]

Watch it close. Fixing it before it comes apart is a lot cheaper than after. I know you will be on top of it. Good luck! Ray
P.S. I hope you bag a 12 pointer this fall. I planted a food plot on my 12 acres, but I am having trouble keeping the weeds out. I saw a doe with 3 fawns the other day.

 

[JC-jetro]

Watch it close. Fixing it before it comes apart is a lot cheaper than after. I know you will be on top of it. Good luck! Ray
P.S. I hope you bag a 12 pointer this fall. I planted a food plot on my 12 acres, but I am having trouble keeping the weeds out. I saw a doe with 3 fawns the other day.

Thanks Ray,

I got my eye on the guy below. He and the rest of his buddy marauders are making a mockery of my 8 feet tall deer proof fence.

JC,

ps. By the way, I bought the original OEM radiator cap from NH and frankly can't remember the rating.

 

[rayikeo2]

Thats going to look good hanging on the wall!:thumbsup: