R1 versus R4

[MossRoad]

R-4's are fine on lawns, sand, mud & snow. If they "stunk", nobody would get anything done with 80% of the tractors on TBN, which are R4's. Nobody would get anything done with a backhoe, all of which are equipped with R4's.

You just have to know how to operate a tractor MossRoad;1774393. Maybe you should ask for some tractor driving lessons for Christmas???

That means 80% of the stuck tractors have R4 tires.

 

[Builder]

My Kubota with R4's slips sideways a=on slopes that are damp and clogs up with wet soil easily... it's lawn friendly.
NH with R1's does not slip - slide - or hardly even spin when plowing or pulling. Leaves small mars in the lawn.
If you are doing things with you lawn - don't get R1's - other wise - don't get R4's.

Might want to say "if you are doing things with you(r) lawn and blacktop" instead. R-1's will scuff pavement something awful and even dig it up on hot days, not to mention the beating the R-1 tires will take.

I've probably got more seat time on R-4's than 95% of TBN members working in horrible mud/jobsite conditions and never slid sideways or got stuck like some of the members here do. That's not a jab at them, but just plain reality.

I think most of this is inexperience by some operators. Let's face it, most (not all) guys here are weekend warriors. You'd be surprised what an experienced operator can do because he operates his machine in all kinds of conditions 5 days per week.

 

[MossRoad]

Might want to say "if you are doing things with you(r) lawn and blacktop" instead. R-1's will scuff pavement something awful and even dig it up on hot days, not to mention the beating the R-1 tires will take.

I've probably got more seat time on R-4's than 95% of TBN members working in horrible mud/jobsite conditions and never slid sideways or got stuck like some of the members here do. That's not a jab at them, but just plain reality.

I think most of this is inexperience by some operators. Let's face it, most (not all) guys here are weekend warriors. You'd be surprised what an experienced operator can do because he operates his machine in all kinds of conditions 5 days per week.

You know, you come across as talking down to many folks here, don't you? It is kind of insulting. People are telling you their experiences and you are writing it off as poor operator practices. Your large tractor weighs 9000 lbs. You mow your lawn with that like the "weekend warriors"? Your smaller tractor with cab and attachment probably tips the scale at over 4000 lbs. You mow your lawn with that one, too?

My late 70s IH2500b tractor loader with loaded R4s, cab and a huge box blade on the back weighed 8000 lbs and had traction trouble in sand, mud, snow and wet grass. No if's and's or but's about it. No operator errors. The R4 tires did not function well on that tractor in those conditions. Period. You could not have operated it any more efficiently than I, or anyone else on the planet. Anyone that got in it had the same problems. My original post was this:

My R4s were downright the wrong tire for my needs on our older 2WD tractor loader. They are good for industrial sites where tire puncture is a concern, but stink in sand, mud, snow or on lawns.

For MY needs. Not your needs. MY needs.

 

[polo1665]

I see that this discussion is living up to its long held reputation.

Honestly, I believe that it all has to do with your needs, use, and area. I have R-4's on my tractor. Weighs in at about 5,000 lbs with FEL and BH or rotary cutter. I have never had trouble in dirt, mud, or snow. Have never gotten it stuck or had issues with traction.

On the other hand I am also not digging a pond, septic system, or putting myself in the position of getting stuck very often. I guess what I am saying is that for use around the house (for me) R-4's leave me more options. I do understand that R-1's are probably a better choice if ground engagement is to your advantage.

I do not believe that R-1's will not cause any more damage than R-4's. Call me a skeptic, but I would have to see a side by side comparison using the same tractor on the same surface to prove that to me.

Different strokes for different folks.

Mark

 

[Builder]

You know, you come across as talking down to many folks here, don't you? It is kind of insulting. People are telling you their experiences and you are writing it off as poor operator practices.

It's not talking anyone down, it's just me suggesting to you that as an experienced operator of larger equipment used to make a living, I can make R-4's go places you can't. If I couldn't, I'd never get anything done on the jobsite, and never be able to make a living. I know you're a tractor website moderator, but I have more experience than you do in this particular instance.

Your large tractor weighs 9000 lbs.

No, it weighs 19,000lbs.

You mow your lawn with that like the "weekend warriors"?

No, I use my John Deere GT235 for that.

Your smaller tractor with cab and attachment probably tips the scale at over 4000 lbs. You mow your lawn with that one, too?

No, it weighs ~6,500 lbs..

Basic weight is 4,000lbs. Cab adds 500lbs. Filled tires adds 1,000lbs, loader adds 1,000lbs that adds up to ~6,500lbs. I use it to bushog 10 acres for a customer down the road from me. I also help run his farm.

My late 70s IH2500b tractor loader with loaded R4s, cab and a huge box blade on the back weighed 8000 lbs and had traction trouble in sand, mud, snow and wet grass. No if's and's or but's about it. No operator errors. The R4 tires did not function well on that tractor in those conditions. Period. You could not have operated it any more efficiently than I, or anyone else on the planet. Anyone that got in it had the same problems. My original post was this:
For MY needs. Not your needs. MY needs.

Sorry, but I have to disagree. Your original post was: " They are good for industrial sites where tire puncture is a concern, but stink in sand, mud, snow or on lawns.".

That is a generalized statement directed at the entire TBN audience. That is why I felt the need to step in and make my opinion known.

I know you're a moderator, but it doesn't mean you are always right or nobody can disagree with you. I do think R-1's are better than R-4's, but operated by an experienced tractor operator, I can get the job done and have been doing so for 25 years with R-4's.

Hopefully I won't get points for correcting what I believe to be incorrect.

 

[pitt_md]

I bought my Kubota MX5000 with R4's. For what I end up doing with this tractor i would have been far better off with R1's. That said the R4's will do just fine until such time that i need new ones. R4's will tear up a lawn if your not careful.

 

[DieselnHooters]

I wanted R1s but when buying used you sometimes take what you can find and found exactly what I was looking for except the tractor had R4s. I bought my tractor in April and so far have been pleased with the R4s. I would still prefer R1s but the R4s are better than I expected.

Same here. Bought mine used 2 yrs ago with R4, been pleasantly surprised on how much traction they offer, I have done a lot of FEL work in deep clay , it workrd fine although they do fill up faster than R1 they also clean up faster, also the front ones wont flex at all with a full bucket.

Got stuck only twice, once in mud and once in snow, got out with diff. lock and FEL.

All I am saying is R4 do shine at some tasks but once those are worn it is back to R1 for me like all the other tractors I ever owned...especially since most of the loader work will be done by then.

 

[Danno1]

What designates the rice patty ags over the more standard US tread depth, is it a different R number or what?

CODE___INDUSTRY TIRE TYPE____________TIRE SERVICE_________GOODYEAR NAME
F-1 Agricultural Single Rib Tread Rice Farming Single Rib
F-2-M Agricultural Multiple-Rib Tread General Farming Dyna Rib
Four Rib
F-2 Agricultural Multiple-Rib Tread Super Rib
Tripe Rib R/S / Triple Rib HD
F-3 Industrial Multiple-Rib Tread Light Industrial Service Multi Rib
Laborer
REAR TRACTOR TIRES
R-1 Drive Wheel, Regular Tread General Farming Ultra Torque Radial
DT710/DT720/DT730
Dyna Torque Radial
Dura Torque
Dyna Torque II
Power Torque
R-1W Drive Wheel, Wet Traction Tread Wet or Moist Soil Super Traction Radial/
DT 800/DT 810/DT 820
R-2 Cane and Rice, Drive Wheel, Deep Tread Wet Muck TD-8
Sugar Cane TD-8 Radial
Rice Farming
R-3 Drive Wheel, Shallow Tread Sandy or Volcanic All Weather
Ash Soils
Orchards
Highway Mowing
Golf Course Work
Light Industrial Service
R-4 Industrial Tractor, Drive Wheel, Intermediate Tread Light Industrial Service Industrial Sure-Grip
Highway Mowing Industrial Torque
IT525
HF-1 High Flotation, Rib Tread Golf Course Work Tundra Grip, Terra Rib, Softrac
HF-2 High Flotation, Regular Lug Tread General Farming Super Terra Grip
HF-3 High flotation, Deep Lug Tread Wet or Moist Soil Super Terra-Grip XT
HF-4 High Flotation, Extra Deep Tread Wet Muck Custom Flo-Grip
GARDEN TRACTOR TIRES
Lug Type Gardens Super Sure-Grip
Universal Type Lawn Mowers Lawn and Garden
IMPLEMENT TIRES
I-1 Rib Tread Free Rolling Wheels Rib Implement
Farm Service
Farm Utility
I-2 Moderate Traction Implement Drive or Free All Weather
Rolling Wheels Softrac II
All Traction
I-3 Traction Tread Drive Wheels Sure-Grip Traction Implement



OK, I can't get the Tabs to work so you'll have to imagine that there are columns in the above text.

F1-F3 are front tires. R1-R4, HF1-HF4 are rear tires. I1-I3 are implement tires.

I got this info out of the Goodyear manual which I can post as a *.pdf if anyone is interested.


.

 

[Builder]

I love the "flotation" AG tires. If my farm operation grows like I hope it will, next tractor will have them.

 

[sld]

I love my R1's. They don't damage the lawn because when it is wet or muddy out my tractor stays in the barn.

I wouldn't want to get it dirty.