Chain top link

[TGF]

Does anyone make pre-fab chain top links, or is it a make your own kinda deal with a very short logging type chain.

[texasjohn]

make your own.... I did....use it with my box blade, really helps keep things smooth thru the ups and downs.

[Gordon Gould]

You will find lots of good ways to make one on here.
Here is the way I did it. Used a logging choker and cable slider on a 3'
piece of chain

[texasjohn]

Now THAT'S a chain top link Nice equipment, too!

[RFB]

John or Gordon,

Please enlighten me regarding chain top links, their purpose and how to use them.

I have a Road Boss grader similar to Gordon's and that chain setup looks intriguing.

[texasjohn]

I have a hydraulic top link. When used as a flexible top link, I shorten it and add a link from a ship's anchor chain... about 10 inches long. A segment of heavy chain between end of hydraulic top link and attachment point of box blade could be used in place of the ship anchor link, I just used what I had available.

When using the box blade on uneven ground with the fixed top link, I found I had to constantly raise and lower the blade and adjust the angle of attack to keep the blade on the ground and try to level the road out. This is because a compact tractor has a rather short wheel base. When the front wheels rise up on a bump, the box blade is forced into the ground by the fixed top link, causing a dip. When the front wheels drop down, the rear blade rises and drops its load of dirt, causing a bump.

If, however, there is flex in the top link, within reason it will take up slack or gain more slack in the above conditions, maintaining ground contact resulting in fewer passes and smoother road.

In operation, I lower the box blade to the ground, lengthen the hydraulic top link+chain such that there is some slack. I raise the lower two points of the 3ph so that the angle of attack of the actual rear blade is nearly flat, maybe just slightly digging in.

Weight of box blade plus added weights is about 1000 lbs.

I have my own hydraulic trailer and live near limestone rock quarries. Thus, acquire loads of road base for my ranch roads. Try as i might, I can't always evenly spread the new material...sometimes I have one foot bumps to smooth out. This rig helps me.

I am sure that there are many approaches to doing this task...this is how I do it. Suggest you create your own flexible link and give it a try...not terribly expensive.

[Gordon Gould]

Chain top links are handy but be CAREFUL where you use then. If you need to hold the impliment so it will not roll forward (ie flail mower ) dont try it.
When I begin grading a hard packed road, especially one that may have rocks embeded,
I use a standard top link and adjust it for the conditions and cut I want to make. Doing this requires the normal readjustments in the dips and crowns. Once I have the surface
losened up and the big rocks out I put on the chain top link to let the grader follow the
road contour. This seems to give me the best job. If I had a hydraulic top link I probably
wouldnt need the chain.
If I start out with the chain and the cutting edge hooks on a solid rock the back end of
the grader jumps up (sometimes vilently) and pivots forward on the front skids until
the rock is cleared or pops out of the road bed. There is no top link to stop this. While
it has not happened to me the whole thing could possibly flip forward into the back of
the tractor because there is no top link to hold it back.
There are lots of discussions and opinions and pros and cons on here if you do a search.

[foggy1111]

I have a hydraulic top link. When used as a flexible top link, I shorten it and add a link from a ship's anchor chain... about 10 inches long. A segment of heavy chain between end of hydraulic top link and attachment point of box blade could be used in place of the ship anchor link, I just used what I had available.

When using the box blade on uneven ground with the fixed top link, I found I had to constantly raise and lower the blade and adjust the angle of attack to keep the blade on the ground and try to level the road out. This is because a compact tractor has a rather short wheel base. When the front wheels rise up on a bump, the box blade is forced into the ground by the fixed top link, causing a dip. When the front wheels drop down, the rear blade rises and drops its load of dirt, causing a bump.

If, however, there is flex in the top link, within reason it will take up slack or gain more slack in the above conditions, maintaining ground contact resulting in fewer passes and smoother road.

In operation, I lower the box blade to the ground, lengthen the hydraulic top link+chain such that there is some slack. I raise the lower two points of the 3ph so that the angle of attack of the actual rear blade is nearly flat, maybe just slightly digging in.

Weight of box blade plus added weights is about 1000 lbs.

I have my own hydraulic trailer and live near limestone rock quarries. Thus, acquire loads of road base for my ranch roads. Try as i might, I can't always evenly spread the new material...sometimes I have one foot bumps to smooth out. This rig helps me.

I am sure that there are many approaches to doing this task...this is how I do it. Suggest you create your own flexible link and give it a try...not terribly expensive.

This sounds like a "lead-in" for the new "hydraulink". ......which, in all seriousness, may be a good product for your application.

[cspot]

You will find lots of good ways to make one on here.
Here is the way I did it. Used a logging choker and cable slider on a 3'
piece of chain

Where did you buy theh logging choker and cable slider at? I like the looks of that top link because it is real easy to change the length when switching implements.

[sweettractors]

By not using a solid toplink, there is a possibility the implement could wind up in your back or at the best on the backside of your tractor. If a 3 point implement hits something solid in the front, you could have a problem. Ken Sweet