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  1. #1
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    284
    Location
    Blair, NE
    Tractor
    3038E

    Default Chain top link

    Does anyone make pre-fab chain top links, or is it a make your own kinda deal with a very short logging type chain.

  2. #2
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,048
    Location
    Central Texas, Jarrell
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L5030HSTC

    Default Re: Chain top link

    make your own.... I did....use it with my box blade, really helps keep things smooth thru the ups and downs.
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  3. #3
    Elite Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,007
    Location
    NorthEastern, VT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: Chain top link

    You will find lots of good ways to make one on here.
    Here is the way I did it. Used a logging choker and cable slider on a 3'
    piece of chain
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chain top link-chainlink-jpg  
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  4. #4
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,048
    Location
    Central Texas, Jarrell
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L5030HSTC

    Default Re: Chain top link

    Now THAT'S a chain top link Nice equipment, too!
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  5. #5
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    963
    Location
    West Central Idaho
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740HSTC3; B3000HSDCC

    Default Re: Chain top link

    John or Gordon,

    Please enlighten me regarding chain top links, their purpose and how to use them.

    I have a Road Boss grader similar to Gordon's and that chain setup looks intriguing.

  6. #6
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,048
    Location
    Central Texas, Jarrell
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L5030HSTC

    Default Re: Chain top link

    I have a hydraulic top link. When used as a flexible top link, I shorten it and add a link from a ship's anchor chain... about 10 inches long. A segment of heavy chain between end of hydraulic top link and attachment point of box blade could be used in place of the ship anchor link, I just used what I had available.

    When using the box blade on uneven ground with the fixed top link, I found I had to constantly raise and lower the blade and adjust the angle of attack to keep the blade on the ground and try to level the road out. This is because a compact tractor has a rather short wheel base. When the front wheels rise up on a bump, the box blade is forced into the ground by the fixed top link, causing a dip. When the front wheels drop down, the rear blade rises and drops its load of dirt, causing a bump.

    If, however, there is flex in the top link, within reason it will take up slack or gain more slack in the above conditions, maintaining ground contact resulting in fewer passes and smoother road.

    In operation, I lower the box blade to the ground, lengthen the hydraulic top link+chain such that there is some slack. I raise the lower two points of the 3ph so that the angle of attack of the actual rear blade is nearly flat, maybe just slightly digging in.

    Weight of box blade plus added weights is about 1000 lbs.

    I have my own hydraulic trailer and live near limestone rock quarries. Thus, acquire loads of road base for my ranch roads. Try as i might, I can't always evenly spread the new material...sometimes I have one foot bumps to smooth out. This rig helps me.

    I am sure that there are many approaches to doing this task...this is how I do it. Suggest you create your own flexible link and give it a try...not terribly expensive.
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  7. #7
    Elite Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,007
    Location
    NorthEastern, VT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: Chain top link

    Chain top links are handy but be CAREFUL where you use then. If you need to hold the impliment so it will not roll forward (ie flail mower ) dont try it.
    When I begin grading a hard packed road, especially one that may have rocks embeded,
    I use a standard top link and adjust it for the conditions and cut I want to make. Doing this requires the normal readjustments in the dips and crowns. Once I have the surface
    losened up and the big rocks out I put on the chain top link to let the grader follow the
    road contour. This seems to give me the best job. If I had a hydraulic top link I probably
    wouldnt need the chain.
    If I start out with the chain and the cutting edge hooks on a solid rock the back end of
    the grader jumps up (sometimes vilently) and pivots forward on the front skids until
    the rock is cleared or pops out of the road bed. There is no top link to stop this. While
    it has not happened to me the whole thing could possibly flip forward into the back of
    the tractor because there is no top link to hold it back.
    There are lots of discussions and opinions and pros and cons on here if you do a search.
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  8. #8
    Elite Member foggy1111's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,513
    Location
    Nisswa, MN
    Tractor
    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: Chain top link

    Quote Originally Posted by texasjohn View Post
    I have a hydraulic top link. When used as a flexible top link, I shorten it and add a link from a ship's anchor chain... about 10 inches long. A segment of heavy chain between end of hydraulic top link and attachment point of box blade could be used in place of the ship anchor link, I just used what I had available.

    When using the box blade on uneven ground with the fixed top link, I found I had to constantly raise and lower the blade and adjust the angle of attack to keep the blade on the ground and try to level the road out. This is because a compact tractor has a rather short wheel base. When the front wheels rise up on a bump, the box blade is forced into the ground by the fixed top link, causing a dip. When the front wheels drop down, the rear blade rises and drops its load of dirt, causing a bump.

    If, however, there is flex in the top link, within reason it will take up slack or gain more slack in the above conditions, maintaining ground contact resulting in fewer passes and smoother road.

    In operation, I lower the box blade to the ground, lengthen the hydraulic top link+chain such that there is some slack. I raise the lower two points of the 3ph so that the angle of attack of the actual rear blade is nearly flat, maybe just slightly digging in.

    Weight of box blade plus added weights is about 1000 lbs.

    I have my own hydraulic trailer and live near limestone rock quarries. Thus, acquire loads of road base for my ranch roads. Try as i might, I can't always evenly spread the new material...sometimes I have one foot bumps to smooth out. This rig helps me.

    I am sure that there are many approaches to doing this task...this is how I do it. Suggest you create your own flexible link and give it a try...not terribly expensive.
    This sounds like a "lead-in" for the new "hydraulink". ......which, in all seriousness, may be a good product for your application.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  9. #9
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    102

    Default Re: Chain top link

    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Gould View Post
    You will find lots of good ways to make one on here.
    Here is the way I did it. Used a logging choker and cable slider on a 3'
    piece of chain
    Where did you buy theh logging choker and cable slider at? I like the looks of that top link because it is real easy to change the length when switching implements.

  10. #10
    Advertiser sweettractors's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    7,407
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Tractor
    JD 6403 CHA-JD 3130 CHA

    Default Re: Chain top link

    By not using a solid toplink, there is a possibility the implement could wind up in your back or at the best on the backside of your tractor. If a 3 point implement hits something solid in the front, you could have a problem. Ken Sweet
    http://www.sweetfarms.com/

    Sweet Farm Equipment LLC (Internet Sales, Shipping All States)
    Shipping Facility
    1815 Defries Rd., Canmer, Ky 42722 Toll Free 1-866-528-3323
    Ken Sweet sweet@scrtc.com

    Shipping Example: Can ship 800 lbs from Ky. to Dallas for $165
    The Northeast shipping corridor is a little more expensive.

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