TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[nettelec]

It's been a while so I thought I'd bring this post back up. I have a L120 that I need to do the rebuild on. My question is, what's the deal with the center case? TT says it should be replaced. I see that they have little filters now instead of the BB's. Can you get just the little filters and springs? I haven't taken mine apart yet...just trying to put a parts list together. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

What is it you are wondering about the center case? Are you wondering if you really need it? I replaced mine, for what that is worth. If the pump/motor is worn why wouldn't the center case be worn also. They contact each other as the pump/motor turns. The little filters are supposed to dampen the shock of switching directions better than the little BB's. Below is a list of what Duane @ TT recomended me to order. I upgraded my K46 to a K57. I would have to look at my shipping list, it is at home, to confirm everything I actually ordered. I am pretty sure I ordered more than what is listed below. I did not add the drain plug but am wishing I had. I was really hard on my L130 this summer but have been very happy with the upgrade. If you would like to know what my complete order was I can look when I get home.

Parts Required to Convert K46 to K57

Quantity Part Number Description
1. 1 1A646088840 Pump Shaft (K57A)
2. 1 187Q0026010 Charge Pump Case Kit
3. 1 1A646088350 Inner Rotor
4. 1 1A646088360 Outer Rotor
5. 2 22351030018 Roll Pin 3.0 x 18
6. 1 1A646088450 Charge Spring
7. 1 1A646088410 Pin 2.5 x 9.8
8. 2 1A646025300 Spline Collar
9. 1 1A646088211 Filter
10. 1 19215489090 Snap Ring
11. 1 187K0099750 Motor Thrust Bearing
12. 1 1A646099530 K57R Repair Kit

 

[nkaryb]

I have a John Deere L110 with 130 hours. All of a sudden it will not go in reverse. If it finally does, it goes very slowly. Any ideas or suggestions as what is causing this and what I should do?

Thanks!

 

[GeneralEclectic]

At the risk of seeming obvious, you should read this entire thread. It has all the ideas and suggestions you could possibly need.

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

Hello Everyone!
I have been away for some time, focusing on pressing issues. Glad to see this thread has grown. Don't forget to be very careful when jacking up your tractor and pursuing this project.

I have not had a chance to look, but has anyone posted a pict of the K46 upgrade kit?

 

[GeneralEclectic]

"Upgrade kit"? What is it? I saw that someone mentioned upgrading to a K57 configuration -- is that what you're talking about?

My tractor and its K46 are still relatively new with only about 25 hours on them, but I have to say, that after beating the crap out of it lately, it's hanging in there. We had a lot of damage from the weird October snowfall that hit the Mid-Atlantic -- four trees damaged to the point of having to remove them. We asked the tree guy to leave the burnable-size wood. Four good-size trees yields a LOT of wood. So we cut/split all of it and did the hauling with the tractor and cart. Probably 500 lb of wood per load, uphill/downhill fwd/reverse, the K46 didn't hesitate. Then there were two leaf cleanup sessions with the Cyclone Rake that's 300-400 lb when it's full. No problem at all. But that's with only 25 hours on it, as I said. I need to pull it out soon to change the oil over to Amsoil 20W-50 Racing Synthetic.

One other note: the Hilliard locking "differential". Having lived with it for almost the entire summer and all this heavy usage this fall, I have to say that it's a mixed bag. It does do exactly what it claims. In low traction situations, both wheels turn in exact synchronism. It has never gotten itself stuck, even in the worst conditions. It's a huge benefit with those heavy loads on any surface with less than ideal traction. On the other hand, it has this weird property of powering the inside wheel on turns. That leads to a lot of dug-up turf on hard turns, especially when it's soft from the excessive rain we had here this year. You have to be conscious of this tendency and use K-turns often. On balance, that annoyance is more than balanced-out by the improved traction.

If I had it to do over again, and the option were available, I'd have opted for a standard open differential with a pedal-locking feature. I think that's the best tradeoff of functionality and control.

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

Errr...well you are definitely taxing that K46. There is quite a bit of info. on the upgrades on this thread for the K46. You will also see a lot of discussion on potential transmission swaps.

"Upgrade kit"? What is it? I saw that someone mentioned upgrading to a K57 configuration -- is that what you're talking about?

My tractor and its K46 are still relatively new with only about 25 hours on them, but I have to say, that after beating the crap out of it lately, it's hanging in there. We had a lot of damage from the weird October snowfall that hit the Mid-Atlantic -- four trees damaged to the point of having to remove them. We asked the tree guy to leave the burnable-size wood. Four good-size trees yields a LOT of wood. So we cut/split all of it and did the hauling with the tractor and cart. Probably 500 lb of wood per load, uphill/downhill fwd/reverse, the K46 didn't hesitate. Then there were two leaf cleanup sessions with the Cyclone Rake that's 300-400 lb when it's full. No problem at all. But that's with only 25 hours on it, as I said. I need to pull it out soon to change the oil over to Amsoil 20W-50 Racing Synthetic.

One other note: the Hilliard locking "differential". Having lived with it for almost the entire summer and all this heavy usage this fall, I have to say that it's a mixed bag. It does do exactly what it claims. In low traction situations, both wheels turn in exact synchronism. It has never gotten itself stuck, even in the worst conditions. It's a huge benefit with those heavy loads on any surface with less than ideal traction. On the other hand, it has this weird property of powering the inside wheel on turns. That leads to a lot of dug-up turf on hard turns, especially when it's soft from the excessive rain we had here this year. You have to be conscious of this tendency and use K-turns often. On balance, that annoyance is more than balanced-out by the improved traction.

If I had it to do over again, and the option were available, I'd have opted for a standard open differential with a pedal-locking feature. I think that's the best tradeoff of functionality and control.

 

[nkaryb]

At the risk of seeming obvious, you should read this entire thread. It has all the ideas and suggestions you could possibly need.

Thank you for your kind, caring, and considerate advice. :dance1: I did read all 23 pages and nothing fits my problem exactly. It's nice everyone that posted something in the 23 pages actually had someone take the time and try to help solve the problem.

No one in the 23 pages said anything about their tractor not being able to go in reverse. Maybe I missed it. :mur:

Anyway, I will call John Deere and Tuff Torq tomorrow to see what they have to say.

Thanks again to all the help. :cool2:

GOD bless everyone and have a Merry CHRISTmas. :thumbsup:

 

[JSH1]

No one in the 23 pages said anything about their tractor not being able to go in reverse. Maybe I missed it. :mur:

Your center case is worn out. This problem shows up first in reverse because the reverse loop has a valve that lowers pressure in the center case and reduces speed. Of course that assumes that there is nothing wrong with your linkage that is preventing the K46 control lever from going into reverse.

@nettelec: Duane is a great guy, I worked with him for 5 years at Tuff Torq. He won't steer you wrong.

 

[nkaryb]

Your center case is worn out. This problem shows up first in reverse because the reverse loop has a valve that lowers pressure in the center case and reduces speed. Of course that assumes that there is nothing wrong with your linkage that is preventing the K46 control lever from going into reverse.

@nettelec: Duane is a great guy, I worked with him for 5 years at Tuff Torq. He won't steer you wrong.

Thanks so much for the reply. I really appreciate the assistance.

I emailed Derrick at TuffTorq and the two things he said was 1) check the linkage and 2) pull the caps, turn the K46 over and drain the fluid and then fill it up with the 5W-50 Synthetic oil. He attached a paper on how high the fluid levels need to be.

Have a Merry CHRISTmas!
Nathan

 

[JSH1]

Changing to a heavier weight oil may help some but it is only a short term fix. The problem you describe is usually caused by wear on the bearing surface of the center case that allows oil to leak between the center case and motor block. A heavy weight oil will leak a little slower especially when the oil is still cold.

The best thing an owner of a hydrostatic transaxle can do to prolong the life of the transaxle is to change the oil on a regular basis.