rounded bolt head-hydro drain plug

[Soundguy]

pipe wrench, small bottle jack.. usually gets them.. if it wont. sometimes you can take a cold chissle, start them intot he side and turn them out.

lastly.. and one that always works for me.. get a big hex nut and tack weld it to the rounded head of the plug.. then turn out with a wrench.

I have seen some use a file or grinder to grind flats into the old head to do the same.. IMHO.. welding a nut on is easier.. YMMV

I've never NOT gotten a drain nut off using one of those methods.

did have to drill a level check plug and ez-out it one time though..

soundguy

 

[aebsmithcreek]

If you are going to arc weld on a tractor like that, can't bearings in other parts of the tractor can be adversely welded by the welding process-it pits the bearings or something to that affect?? Maybe use a gas welder instead?

thanks Sound guy. in this case the heat probably wont be an issue because there is almost nine gallons of hydro oil to absorb the heat, i doubt if it would get any where near normal operating temp. another concern is the gasket but i am pretty confident using some wet paper towels wraped around the sump for a heat sink would solve that problem as well. it would be very little weld time and could be tacked on one side allowed to cool and then the oter side and so on until the weld was complete, i just doubt my skill welding over head.
earl

 

[Short Game]

When faced with that situation, I give up on the 6011 and use 1109. :confused2:

I know I'd be thinking about how to turn the tractor upside-down.

 

[accordionman]

HELLO,
i use an air hammer with a chisel. if you have
one, and the air compressor to power it, this is a good
way to remove bolts that have a rounded head, or drain
plugs.
caution, you have to real careful that you do not slip
off, and damage something else. when you get the part
out, then weld a large nut to the center, for future use.
good luck.
accordionman
wlbrown

 

[Kays Supply]

The heat of welding might be your friend. It could help make the plug easier to get out. Also, keep in mind hot hydraulic oil can burn/explode. I was inside a large machine at a cannery welding a broken lift arm. The hydraulic oil inside the arm exploded. It raised the whole machine off the ground with me inside. WHAT A RIDE.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Welding on a tank or in this case a reservoir is best done with the tank full of product. I have welded connections to diesel storage tanks and other flammable lines many times. The way to do it is to make sure you have good fluid coverage so it absorbs the heat and keeps the liquid below the vapor point. If you can't make the contents flow, then you need some volume to absorb the heat input. I doubt that welding a nut on would heat up 9 gallons of hydraulic oil to the flash point using an electric arc welder. Gas welding would for sure put more heat input into it and may never get it hot enough to fuse the metal prior to setting the whole thing on fire. Get a big enough nut to fit loosely over the rounded plug and hopefully the plug is sticking thru the nut a sufficent length to allow you to weld it when it is mostly flush. If not, just crank up the amps a bit and (I like to use 7018 for this) just bury the rod inside and keep it burning till it starts to fill the cavity. Let it cool and then try to remove the plug.

 

[Soundguy]

thanks Sound guy. in this case the heat probably wont be an issue because there is almost nine gallons of hydro oil to absorb the heat, i doubt if it would get any where near normal operating temp. another concern is the gasket but i am pretty confident using some wet paper towels wraped around the sump for a heat sink would solve that problem as well. it would be very little weld time and could be tacked on one side allowed to cool and then the oter side and so on until the weld was complete, i just doubt my skill welding over head.
earl

I've welded nuts to enough oil drain bungs to fill a 5g bucket. never.. ever had a pan gasket issue.. heck.. never had a bung gasket issue.. though I always repalce those anyway.

and if you keep the electrode and ground clamp close to each other, IE.. ont he same part.. there aren't any bearing / bushing problems to worry about.

just about every antique I buy has to have something welded on or welded OFF of it... never had an issue..

soundguy

 

[Cpjlube]

That's it! The previous owner tack welded it in to make sure it wouldn't loosen up over time. Haha. There's plenty of ways to get it out. I always try the least destructive way first and then work my way up the list. I usually get the plug out before I have to get the welder or the drill and easy out. Every way has it's advantages.

Chuck

 

[Fixemall]

I suggested the 10 degree vise grips because they have a built in notch for the filed head to catch on, trust me I know that it will work and there is no risk as there is with heat, chiseling etc.
As a bonus you get to go tool shopping! Just make sure you get the pair with the notch in the jaw, you will have a "lightbulb" moment when you see them.

 

[Soundguy]

That's it! The previous owner tack welded it in to make sure it wouldn't loosen up over time. Haha. There's plenty of ways to get it out. I always try the least destructive way first and then work my way up the list. I usually get the plug out before I have to get the welder or the drill and easy out. Every way has it's advantages.

Chuck

i do the opposite.

it's usually a 1-5$ plug I'm working on.. and I have no inclination of spending any extra time trying to save them.

if 'standard procedure' don't remove them.. a half a welding rod and a sacrificial hex nut takes all applicant.. none denied. takes less time for me to do that than assemble all the rube goldberg contraptions that I might use to extract and save a 'disposable' sump plug..

soundguy