I finally succeeded in removing the broken starting key on my LB1914. :key:
I was unable to pick it out with any of a variety of tools. So I had to remove the switch.
This requires removal of the throttle lever, the instrument panel, the front of the panel with the gas shut-off lever set in it, and loosening and pulling forward the large lower panel in which the Starter switch is mounted. While grasping the back of the switch, the locking ring on the front of the panel is easily removed with suitable pliers.
There is a small hole in the back of the switch housing, and the key fragment was easily pushed out through it with a wire! :cool2:
My understanding is there is only one key type for all LB1914s. Steal one, and you can steal them all
I checked the spare key, and it turns the lock very easily: one does not need such a large key head, so I an going to experiment with reducing its size so my knee does not impact it so easily. I also plan to screw a piece of rigid material to the panel to help guard the key from my knee.
I ordered another set of two keys from Little Tractor for $10. With an earlier order, Little Tractor sent me a pair of courtesy Kioti orange key fobs to make the black keys easier to find: very useful, especially for a downsized key, so I asked for another, which they are kindly including with my order.
I attach a red string to the key and the other end to a large key ring that only fits over the throttle lever BEFORE the key is inserted. This prevents key loss on the odd occasion when the key has been knocked out of the lock (one does not notice because diesels keep running). It also serves as a flag that reminds me to remove the key when I am done.
I am also going to follow a suggestion I found in another thread: take an orange Gatorade cap to make a replacement for the OEM starter switch weather cap - its keeper breaks off in a year or two and is soon lost (it's important to keep the rain out). This mod uses some wire tightly wound around the cap to make a snug fit. I plan to go one better and add a rot-proof keeper screwed to the panel.
While the panels are off it's a good time to examine the Gas Cut-off control: it can become difficult to operate because of accumulated dust and dirt at each end of its cable: in fact mine was completely jammed and not working. Working the cable vigorously a couple of inches back and forth got rid of the dry dirt in the ends, and then I added a little silicone spray to each end: now it feels frictionless.
Removal of the lower panel also provides an opportunity to lubricate a hidden pivot on the foot throttle linkage which can (and was contributing to preventing the throttle linkage not returning all the way to idle. I may also add an extra spring attached to the throttle and anchored back somewhere near the firewall.
So I got three birds with one stone! :dance1:
Thank you all for the suggestions and encouragement :drink:
Do you know why they say mount and dismount the tractor only from the left? It has nothing to do with horses, unless perhaps you ride :cowboy::horse: The real reason is that it keeps you from accidentally stepping on the foot throttle, possibly with startling results. (You know, we really need some fun tractor "smilies" here!)
Thanks for your advice and suggestions,
C
