Replacing BX24 tie rod boot (how-to with pics)

[Sodo]

These boots are exposed, and rip easily if you drive thru bushes or sticks. If you ask Kubota for a new boot, the only part number that can find is the whole tie-rod end ($46 just to get the little rubber boot). The boot as in the last pic (Kubota part K1253-01660) costs about $11.34 at your dealer, is exactly the same as the original but it's NOT LISTED in the BX parts list. You have to ASK specifically for part# K1253-01660. Even in 2014, Kubota dealers don't know this because it's not in the BX list. Because everything is on the computer, there's no place for the dealer to write a note for the next customer. oldtommyboy found found this and posted it in 2014. It's like an archeological dig.

Changing the boot takes about 10 minutes.

Heres some pics that help. Sorry the instructions are not step by step, but they give you a good idea how simple it is.

1) Count the threads from the jam-nut, then when you put it back together, make sure to leave the same number of threads showing. This is not critical, the BX only goes 8mph.

2)Don't set the steering at hard right (or hard left). *As you unscrew this rod end, it will steer the wheel further. *You need to allow "turning room" for un-screwing out the rod end out of the steering actuator.

3) Set the spiral retaining spring on the tie rod first, then slide the boot on. Then with a screwdriver, work the spiral ring back over the boot. Don't use a new, sharp screwdriver, it can cut the soft boot. The spiral spring should be in a neat spiral when you're done, not tangled over itself. If tangled over itself it presses into the boot like a knife and could cut the boot. It's only 1 and a 1/2 turns spiral, pretty easy to get it right. Deleting the spring and using a zip-tie (or no tie at all) might be a good way to let the boot slide off rather than rip.

4) Recommend adding a cover for the boot before you put it back together. A bicycle innertube or some tougher fabric wrapped around this boot will protect it. Lots of BX owners simply ignore the ripped boots, and it doesn't seem to cause problems, and as said above if you ever wear the rod-end out, it's only $46. But some people are inclined to keep their equipment in top condition so here's how to do this little project. Here's another TBN thread with some pics of "boot covers" that users added to protect their boots.

 

[GolfAddict]

Nice job of documenting this, thanks! I suppose I should do this one of these days...

 

[radioman]

perfect instructions! .. I never knew about the part number -- I'm filing it away for future reference now.. many thanks!

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the information, I've put three sets of tie rods on two BX's over the years, so I'll use this the next time.

 

[benabrazil]

Thanks Sodo!!! This great stuff. I will order this part today and do it next weekend.

 

[Lilguy]

I rented a BX25D this summer to see if it would do the job for me. 400 hrs, both tierod boots shot from dry rot. That's a quality issue with the rubber. I have 2 Kubotas from the mid 80's that still have the boots intact. One has been parked outside for 30 years. If that's how you meet a price point, what other compromises to strength and quality have they made?

 

[varmint]

Thanks to TbN, some great advice has shown up, saving the OP some time and money! I wonder if Messick's will suggest that replacement boot kit when our man contacts them? It would be interesting to know. By the way, when ordering from Messicks, ask about the cheapest shipping options. I learned they normally figure their customers need their parts quickly, so they ship using more expensive means unless you ask.

 

[Coyote machine]

Nice find! I'm betting that boot might even fit other models and possibly brands of tractors too.:thumbsup:

Here's something to consider: that's not actually the tie rod end boot; it IS the steering rod end boot, however. The tie rod end, and it's corresponding boot, is the next section to the left, in the pics, that has a right angle threaded section that connects the entire steering rack to the wheel assembly.

And when installing the boot, before putting the new one in place clean out the joint of all old grease and dirt and pack with new bearing grease, then install the boot. Personally I would not use a cable tie in place of the wound wire that came on the original boot, but I might give an overwrap to the whole boot area with a tear proof fabric like rolled roofing polyethylene, which I did to seal out dirt on the torn boot on my Kioti - I didn't want to pay for the entire rod end with boot- something like $150, at the time. Kioti has the same problem- supposedly no boot available without the rod assembly...

 

[varmint]

Just thought about NAPA- next time I'm there, I will check into replacement generic boots.

 

[Steave]

Summit Racing has some you might want to check out. They have different sizes. I've never used them just happen to see them.

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