Armrest and other upgrades

[IrTxRx]

Dear group,

As my purchase fast approaches are their other items which one should consider when purchasing which may not be listed on the PT web site (i.e. thumb for minihoe, replacement blades, etc)? Also, are the armrests a good upgrade, or should I apply the $100 to a new aftermarket suspension chair?

Thank you

 

[ponytug]

Dear Rx,

Safety first: If you have any slopes, buy yourself at least two inclinometers, one for fore/aft, and one for side to side. (I bought mine from Rieker, but R&B make some nice ones as well.) One to know that you are getting into trouble, and one to know that you are in trouble.

Don't forget hearing protectors. I love my Pelltors, but YMMV. Since you plan on brush cutting or stump grinding, get a chainsaw type faceshield, with hearing protection. Debris will fly- amazingly far.

A 5lb CO2 or dry powder fire extinguisher. Mount it on the tractor before you start the engine. Try to avoid drilling through hydraulic hoses or coolers.

If you don't already own them, buy yourself a good set of 90 degree offset open end wrenches for working on the hydraulic lines. After you use the machine, get in the habit of going around and tightening the hoses when you see them weep, as they will loosen as the warm up/cool down and vibrate. Wash and clean them afterwards, so you know when you have a new leak. While you are using the tractor, watch for oil spots appearing and this is a lot easier if it is clean to begin with. Small leaks are much nicer to deal with than big ones...

Of course, metric and SAE sockets, and a torque wrench.

Incidently, CharLynn, maker of some (or is it many?) of the PT wheel motors, recommends 5 hours of use at no more than 50% power to help seat the gaskets. I did not find this advice until after I had blown a wheel motor. I am not saying that they are related, but it does seem like good advice. Did I mention that you should install that fire extinguisher on the tractor sooner, rather than later?

Air compressor to blow out the oil to air cooler on the 1430.

A grease gun for the PT, plus an extra for the mower (different grease) is required, plus extra superlube for the ball joints. (Check with PT whether yours has the central nut that needs tightening. I know all the 4XX series has it; my 1445 is designed differently. I believe.)


Optional:
I bought 100' or so of spiral cable wrap to protect the hoses as they cross sharp edges, and to protect the exposed hoses on the implements. (McMaster Carr) I bought some car door edge guards to snap over a number of the sharp edges that the hydraulic lines rest or rub on.

The armrests get mixed reviews, based upon terrain, user girth and personal preferences. Bear in mind that the seat will tip forward in sudden stops or bumps, and your knees will pay the price. (So don't do it!)

Dawn detergent to clean oil spills with.
A pressure washer.
Toys, toys, toys...


All the best,

Peter

Dear group,

As my purchase fast approaches are their other items which one should consider when purchasing which may not be listed on the PT web site (i.e. thumb for minihoe, replacement blades, etc)? Also, are the armrests a good upgrade, or should I apply the $100 to a new aftermarket suspension chair?

Thank you

 

[SnowRidge]

Spare rim and tire. Bought with a new machine, they have a good price. You _will_ get flats. Everyone seems to.

PT owners all seem to have different experiences with their machines. I have never had a hydraulic hose leak. That's not to say I haven't had a leak. It just hasn't been a hose or hose fitting.

Just so that you will never have one leak or otherwise go bad, order a spare hydraulic motor. Get it from a local distributor, though. It will be a lot cheaper.

PT charges an arm and a leg for blades. I don't know about other models, but I found a web source for the blades for my PT-425 48" finish mower.

Spinner knob. TSC has them.

Set of large SAE wrenches. You will need them.

Air compressor, if you don't already have one.

I don't have the arm rests. I think they would get in the way at times. Moss has them. He may have a different opinion.

 

[MossRoad]

Dear group,

As my purchase fast approaches are their other items which one should consider when purchasing which may not be listed on the PT web site (i.e. thumb for minihoe, replacement blades, etc)? Also, are the armrests a good upgrade, or should I apply the $100 to a new aftermarket suspension chair?

Thank you

I have armrests on my PT45. They are very useful when doing long haul transportation of large loads of material. I travel at full speed in reverse with the bucket just inches off the ground. It acts like a wheelie bar. The armrests are also useful when doing work that requires you look out the side and down as well as work on side slopes.

 

[kjm3232]

Dear group,

As my purchase fast approaches are their other items which one should consider when purchasing which may not be listed on the PT web site (i.e. thumb for minihoe, replacement blades, etc)?


Get a slow moving vehicle triangle from a tractor supply store. Add reflective tape on the rops and on the back so if you are driving on a road someone will see you at nite. If you can weld, if not get it welded by either PT or someone else " guards" around the grease zerk fittings on any of the buckets so they dont get broken off when limbs fall on them. Add better lights to the front so you can see better when working at nite. I added pipe foam insulation around all the sharp edges and even along the rops to soften when i hit my head on it. good luck

 

[IrTxRx]

Great info all thank you

 

[KentT]

My PT had arm-rests on it when I bought it, so I can't really compare.
I use them all the time -- it's a standard part of the "pre-flight" -- seat belt fastened, armrests down, parking brake released, etc.

Working on sideslopes, I'm glad that it's not JUST the seatbelt holding me in the seat... and I still find myself gripping the uphill ROPS post most of the time!

Personally, I don't see how taller people can use suspension seats without banging their head on the FOPS occasionally when the hinged seat moves up and forward. My friend, at 6' 4" has done that in a "forced stop" when the bucket caught an immovable object. Luckily, I've not banged my head that way (only on the edge when mounting/dismounting), but I've certainly tested the seatbelt SEVERAL times.

 

[Rip]

You might want set of spline sockets for the external star-head bolts Deutz is fond of. SK makes them I know.

Also, to repeat what Snowridge already mentioned, get yourself a good spinner knob (and perhaps a spare) for the steering wheel and mount it first thing! An articulated machine is MUCH easier to manuver in any direction by cranking the knob versus trying to "steer" it like you instinctivly would a non-articulated vehicle. Even so, it will take a little while to get used to what one end is going to do when the other goes one way.

I also added a pair of grab handles inside & out on both sides of the ROPS canapy so that I have something solid to hold on to but that keeps my hands INSIDE the protective structure when going through tree limbs or when at risk (mental so far) of going over sideways.

Some sort of rearview mirror(s) can come in handy also.

Some way to bring the third hyd valve control up on top. Most (and I) have rigged it next to the existing joystick, some with a button on the joystick and solenoid valves, and one even rigged it up on the left of the console. Anything is better than under the dash, unless only operating the quickattach locks.

I only use the arm rests when in really steep conditions....but then they are nice to have.

A suspension seat would be nice at times, but may require a bit of "engineering" and modification to the stock seat support brackets.

I solved the inside-valve stem and other flat tire issues once and for all by foam-filling my tires. This does result in a firmer/bouncier ride, alters the traction pro/con, and adds a LOT of additional weight below the CG, but you will never (or at least until you wear the tread completly out) have a flat or cut tire issue! Many, if not most, skid steers run foamed tires. It is not cheap however.

The pipe insulation foam along the lower edges of the ROPS might not be a bad idea at least until you really get used to where it is....took me more time and hard knocks than it should have!

Rip

 

[tlb]

Mine came with arm rests. I use them or not based on the job. For mowing where I am on the tractor for long periods of time and/or mowing on a slope, I have them down. When doing short haul jobs where I get on and off the tractor frequently, I keep them up.

Spinner knob - invaluable. Had my tractor for a year before I "tried" a spinner knob. Best investment I made so far. It will save you a lot of time working the tractor.

By the way, if I happen to be in you neck of the woods can I take a test drive?

Tim

 

[ponytug]

I agree with Rip about needing the drivers. However, not to be picky, but I think we mean E torx socket drivers, aka external torx. You want the rounded drivers, the sizing goes E#, e.g. E10, E12 E20. Some people say you can use a 12 point standard socket on them, but I wouldn't.

Whatever you call them, you will need them to work on the engine, because the bolts look like this;

These are becoming more common in European and American cars in high torque/tensile applications.

Splined sockets have longitidunal sectors, like teeth, and look like an allen wrench ought to drive them (but using one is almost guaranteed to strip it). I have only run across them on obscure set screws, but YMMV.
Splined sockets look like this;

All the best,

Peter

You might want set of spline sockets for the external star-head bolts Deutz is fond of. SK makes them I know....

Rip