Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[pequeajim]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( O.K. folks, try to use your imagination.... )</font>


It's looks like a backhoe in there! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Went to my storage shed today and picked up a couple pieces of the C channel for the outriggers and another 4X4 tube for the dipper stick. The outriggers will be about 40" long. Still trying to decide if I should make them point straight forward like the plans or angled to the sides. Straight forward would probably help hold against the soil better VS the pulling power of the hoe while angled would provide more stability. Most commercial units seem to have them pointing straight out the sides. I don't want that. I think I'll compromise and do 30 or 45 degrees off from straight forward. Any thoughts? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[J_J]

David. On the one that I am building, the outriggers, are angled toward the front about 20 degrees, and outward.

 

[J_J]

David, Did you have any luck with the 1/4 in thick sleeves for the 1 in bolts. How did you cut out the holes for the sleeves?

 

[MossRoad]

I haven't cut out any holes yet. Any holes that you see in the pictures were already in the metal when I pilferred, ah, er, obtained it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Went out at lunch and bought two, 1.5" bi-metal holes saws and a new arbor with pilot bit. Hole saws were $9.00 each and arbor was $14.00. I hope to give them a try this weekend. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Attached is a picture of the job the bi-metal hole saw did with my cheap drill press. Not bad! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif About 5 minutes per 1.5" hole through one 1/8" and one 1/4 inch plates welded together. The drill press kept stalling, so I had to go a little slow. If anyone with a decent drill press hasn't tried these hole saws, go ahead and try them. After two cuts the blade seems just as sharp as when I started and the paint is hardly worn off.

 

[MossRoad]

Now I need the help of the TBN Knowledge base....

Attached is a picture of how the instructions want me to do it.

The bottom green/gray horizontal line represents ground level.

The black line is approximately 7.5'. This represents maximum lift above ground level with no bucket attached.

The red line indicates a bracket that will be welded to the boom arm. The dipper will be pinned at the silver tape measure, so that is the rotation point where the top arrow is pointing. This layout represents the maximum lift height.

 

[MossRoad]

This attachment represents how I think it should be done(lookout! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif).

Again, the green/gray horizontal line represents ground level.

The black line is almost 9' at maximum lift with no bucket attached.

The red line indicates the same brackets, however, I have flopped them and welded them to the dipper stick and the pin now goes through the boom arm, pivoting where the silver tape measure is.

This seems to be the way all other small backhoes are assembled. The large trackhoes are like the first example, but every other backhoe I have seen is like this second example.

I think it is almost a no brainer, as this method give me more lift, eliminates a cut in the dipper stick that the instructions have to make room for the cylinder, etc... I can't see a drawback. Am I missing something?

 

[MossRoad]

Also note that in my examples, the dipper stick has not been trimmed to its final lenghts. It is way too long right there. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif