Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen
- Thread starter MossRoad
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MossRoad
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Yes. That's the same way the PT425 is set up. All options are open right now. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
BobRip
Elite Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( . Anyhow, the motor started getting warm, not hot, but warm. I could keep my skin in contact with the motor casing, but it was vey uncomfortable. I decided to stop after about 10 minutes and let it cool down for 10 minutes. Then I finished the job. Lets face it, the motor is just not up to continous operation for 20 minutes at a time. )</font>
Moss, I don't think you motor is running too hot. If you touched it and it was too hot immediately, I might be concerned. As is, it's probably all right. This is just my opinion and a lot depends on the motor design. Motors do get warm when they run loaded and this is normal.
Bob Rip
Moss, I don't think you motor is running too hot. If you touched it and it was too hot immediately, I might be concerned. As is, it's probably all right. This is just my opinion and a lot depends on the motor design. Motors do get warm when they run loaded and this is normal.
Bob Rip
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MossRoad
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I made two more cuts last night. I tried switching to a different blade. It has 18 teeth per inch. The one that was in there appears to have been a 14 tooth per inch blade. The cuts were noticably faster, but still took over 15 mintues to complete. And the motor got so hot that I couldn't keep my hand on it for more than a few seconds, so I shut it down and watched the news or ate every 10 minutes. Feeling around the vents on the motor, there is not much air moving around it at all. I think the fan has little effect. I can only feel cool air blowing out of the end of the motor where the fan is. No hot air, or really any air, is coming out of the vents on the other end of the motor. I think the fan is either put on backwards from the factory, or has no vent holes in it to move air through it. I am tempted to take it apart and look closer, but I don't want to void the warranty. A friend of mine has the same saw and has had it for about 15-20 years. He still has the original blade in it. He told me to give him a piece of the scrap and he will test it on his saw. So I will do that over the weekend. He's thinking either my blades are cheap, crummy stuff, or the steel may be hard. He doubts the steel is hard, but wants to see for himself.
If anyone is following the instructions, I cut off the 6" piece of 4X4 tubing that will go on top of the 72" piece of 4X4 tubing to form the main end of the frame that the pivot point brackets will attach to. Next cut will be the 44" cross piece that the outriggers will eventually attach to. That will be the last cut of the 4X4 material that I know of. The rest will be cut off and detail work on 1/2 inch plate and the bushings and pins. For the floor plate, I will use the torch.
I may end up finishing my grapple during this project as well... but don't hold your breath! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
If anyone is following the instructions, I cut off the 6" piece of 4X4 tubing that will go on top of the 72" piece of 4X4 tubing to form the main end of the frame that the pivot point brackets will attach to. Next cut will be the 44" cross piece that the outriggers will eventually attach to. That will be the last cut of the 4X4 material that I know of. The rest will be cut off and detail work on 1/2 inch plate and the bushings and pins. For the floor plate, I will use the torch.
I may end up finishing my grapple during this project as well... but don't hold your breath! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
BobRip
Elite Member
It does sound like the motor is hot, but maybe not too hot. If you could add an auxiliary fan to boost the air flow it would help. My philosphy is since it is still under warranty, use it hard. If it fails, then modify the next one with an aux fan.
When I was welding last weekend we kept tripping the welder's temperature over load. We aimed a floor fan at it. We could feel air coming out the other side, and knew we were cooling it. It never tripped again. They have an option for a fan, but it seems foolish to not make it standard in a $1200 welder.
I have seen auxiliary fans added to a motor, but this does not mean just cooling the outside. You need to force air through it. If there are no flow through vents, this cannot be done. I suspect that there are, otherwise why have a fan at all.
Bob Rip
When I was welding last weekend we kept tripping the welder's temperature over load. We aimed a floor fan at it. We could feel air coming out the other side, and knew we were cooling it. It never tripped again. They have an option for a fan, but it seems foolish to not make it standard in a $1200 welder.
I have seen auxiliary fans added to a motor, but this does not mean just cooling the outside. You need to force air through it. If there are no flow through vents, this cannot be done. I suspect that there are, otherwise why have a fan at all.
Bob Rip
Clarke
Gold Member
Look at the data plate on the motor. It is most likely rated at 40 degree C temperature rise above the ambient temperature when operating at full load. 104 degree F + 70 degree F ambient = 174 degree F normal operating temperature.
sg
sg
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MossRoad
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<font color="blue"> annular cutter should do a nice job </font>
I just checked on prices of 1.5" annular cutters... YIKES! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Least expensinve I could find is $100.00.
I'll probably try a bi-metal hole saw first and see how it does.
I just checked on prices of 1.5" annular cutters... YIKES! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Least expensinve I could find is $100.00.
I'll probably try a bi-metal hole saw first and see how it does.
J_J
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MossRoad
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MossRoad
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A little more info...
The gap above the red jackstand is the bend in the main boom. That gets welded solid.
The dipper stick, bucket and linkage are missing from the picture as are almost all of the hydraulics, seat and outriggers.
I have some very heavy C channel that I think will make excellent outriggers that will go under those long cylinders. I may not use those cylinders because they are so long. We'll see how the budget goes. I have four of those cylinders and they, too, were FREE! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
That rusty hunk of metal I got from a scrap yard this morning. I went looking for 1/2" plate, but they only had 1" thick diamond plate about 15"-16" wide and 6' long and I couldn't lift them. They are too big for my needs. Anyhow, that rusty piece is 1/2". The directions call for 3/8" so this is a little beefier. I will cut both of those angled pieces off that base plate, make them the same length, turn the base plate 90 degrees and weld them back on. Then all I have to do is find some more plate and make the box and tube for the pivot pin receiver section.
I'm still trying to decide if I want a long frame or a short frame.
Short frame PROS:
1. Keeps the implement size down.
2. Operator will be protected somewhat by ROPS of the tractor.
Short frame CONS:
1. Will have to make some sort of FEL lift lockout device, as I could see being crushed between the seat and the ROPS if the FEL joystick is accidentally pushed backwards and the backhoe seat rises.
2. Shorter frame means shorter lever means more stress on the PT holding it down.
Long frame PROS:
1. PT will have more leverage to hold it down.
2. Less stress on the PT.
3. More weight means less jumping around.
Long frame CONS:
1. Unit will be almost 5' longer, requiring more storage spaces and limiting where the unit can fit in tight work areas.
2. No ROPS protection.
If you folks think of any more PROS and CONS, please let me know. Another thing that will be added is some sort of kill switch that can shut down the engine from the backhoe. That was suggested by the person that made the instructions and I think it is a great feature.
In all honesty, if it weren't for the time I have to wait for the saw to make the cuts, I only have about a half an hour in this so far.
Total amount out of my budget so far... $13.00 for that rusty piece of steel. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
The gap above the red jackstand is the bend in the main boom. That gets welded solid.
The dipper stick, bucket and linkage are missing from the picture as are almost all of the hydraulics, seat and outriggers.
I have some very heavy C channel that I think will make excellent outriggers that will go under those long cylinders. I may not use those cylinders because they are so long. We'll see how the budget goes. I have four of those cylinders and they, too, were FREE! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
That rusty hunk of metal I got from a scrap yard this morning. I went looking for 1/2" plate, but they only had 1" thick diamond plate about 15"-16" wide and 6' long and I couldn't lift them. They are too big for my needs. Anyhow, that rusty piece is 1/2". The directions call for 3/8" so this is a little beefier. I will cut both of those angled pieces off that base plate, make them the same length, turn the base plate 90 degrees and weld them back on. Then all I have to do is find some more plate and make the box and tube for the pivot pin receiver section.
I'm still trying to decide if I want a long frame or a short frame.
Short frame PROS:
1. Keeps the implement size down.
2. Operator will be protected somewhat by ROPS of the tractor.
Short frame CONS:
1. Will have to make some sort of FEL lift lockout device, as I could see being crushed between the seat and the ROPS if the FEL joystick is accidentally pushed backwards and the backhoe seat rises.
2. Shorter frame means shorter lever means more stress on the PT holding it down.
Long frame PROS:
1. PT will have more leverage to hold it down.
2. Less stress on the PT.
3. More weight means less jumping around.
Long frame CONS:
1. Unit will be almost 5' longer, requiring more storage spaces and limiting where the unit can fit in tight work areas.
2. No ROPS protection.
If you folks think of any more PROS and CONS, please let me know. Another thing that will be added is some sort of kill switch that can shut down the engine from the backhoe. That was suggested by the person that made the instructions and I think it is a great feature.
In all honesty, if it weren't for the time I have to wait for the saw to make the cuts, I only have about a half an hour in this so far.
Total amount out of my budget so far... $13.00 for that rusty piece of steel. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif